| i have a job that requires some french graying . i know what it is but i have never done it could any body give a simple way to do it .. now when i strip the bluing off of a colt saa i use navel jell will this work for french graying and then how do i make the engraving stand out .. thanks Ron |
Posted by Ron Nott at 12/28/2005 9:02:43 PM.
| Ron, I have used naval jelly for that process but for larger areas it is hard to get an even or smooth grey. Lots of rubbing with a pink pearl eraser helps. The last time I greyed a piece I used Oxysolv sold by Eastwood, used in the old car restoration process for rust removal. It gave a much nicer grey tone and was easy to use. It is not as thick as Naval Jelly. To protect bluing some use fingernail polish as a stop off varnish. |
Posted by Sam Welch at 12/29/2005 10:26:12 PM.
| hi SAM .. thanks for that info .. now after french graying do i have to put any thing on the surface to protect the french grayed area also do i have to rub black into the engraving so it stands out .. also great work that you and lee did on the ruger #1 i cant Waite to see it . see you in Reno . Ron |
Posted by Ron Nott at 12/30/2005 9:26:48 AM.
| I meant to mention that. Somewhere on the forum archives or back issues of the Engraver there is an article by Pete Mazur about a wax product that you can use. It tells how to mix some blackening into the wax and that does both at once for you. I used to wax my hunting rifles, metal and wood, when I lived in Kodiak and the salt atmosphere never caused a problem...I used Johnson's paste floor wax for that. |
Posted by Sam Welch at 12/30/2005 12:34:37 PM.
| Ron, Everyone seems to have a different way to do this and I haven't tried them all but I've found a pretty decent method. I use a metal prep for autobody work. I think it is called Dupont Metal Prep but the label is long gone. It "pickles" the metal and gives it some "bite" for painting but it also does the job for a gray as well. Most any of the solutions used are of an acid base. I think it is phosphoric. It will slightly etch but not rust back easily. I apply it with a paper towel and give it a few coats. You could sumbmerge the item as well. Once it is dry, it will be splotchy. You can use the pink pearl eraser but I like to use Brownells "Triple F" rubbing compound. It's an oil based mild rubbing compound. Seems to work great for me. I use flat black paint to highlight the engraving then I use Brownell's satin clear baking lacquer to finish it off. You can use varnish like the old guns too but the baking lacquer is quite tough. It's available in spray cans but the kind you put in a gun works best. I either use an airbrush or touch up gun. Hope this helps. |
Posted by Rex Pedersen at 12/30/2005 3:40:44 PM.
| thanks sam and rex .. rex i do like your method best . i am trying to get this rifle done for the reno show .. ron |
Posted by Ron Nott at 12/30/2005 9:33:58 PM.
| Ron, I've used a number of diffent acids to remove bluing. It can be as simple as going to walmart and picking up a bottle of birchwood casey blue remover. I've also experimented with rust blue or touch up blue after to give the grey a darker tone. There are a ton of variations to this general idea. Usually, as has been already stated by others, the grey will be a little splotchy and fine steel wool or erasers can help with the blending. I've had some receivers come out very even and others like a rehead with freckles. See you in Reno |
Posted by Lee Griffiths at 12/30/2005 11:49:30 PM.
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