FEGA Home I can't stand all day anymore. I have a stool that is so high it is almost the same as standing and I use a microscope. I do a lot of muzzle loading barrels that are as long as four feet long .I have the large ball that weighs about 45 lbs. when I am doing a barrel I have rails that I clamp on my engraving bench that go almost all the way around me. The barrels rest on the rail and I can swivel them about 150 deg. this works better than anything I can figure out except standing. But on long barrels you still need some kind of rest. I'm trying to figure out how to engrave laying down. Any ideas. Berry Hands ought to know. jerry huddleston <huddlestonjerry@msn.com> Baker City, Oregon 5415232593 - Wednesday, December 29, 2004 at 23:52:45 (EST) BR Engraving, My question is are you trying to engrave this barrel sitting down? When I engrave barrels or any other gun part, I stand. My vice which is 45 pounds sits on a pedestal made from four 2x6's, sealed with quarter inch plywood top and bottom, filled with concrete. It is much easier to move around the vice. On gun receivers and other gun parts, I can cut a scroll in one pass without stopping. The only time I sit down is when I do my layout on the gun part. Try standing up: you'll save your back. I have talked to many engravers over the years and I hear them talking about their bad backs. The reason for their bad backs is that they spend their time hunched over a vice. You can work standing up whether you use hammer and chisel, hand tool, Gravermiester, Gravermax, Gravermate, or Ngrave. Good luck, Billy Jo. Yours truly, J.J. Roberts J. J. Roberts <jjrengraver@aol.com> Manassas, VA 703-330-0448 - Wednesday, December 29, 2004 at 14:49:40 (EST) I have been engraving for only 8 months and have been practincing diligently..I have a problem that I don't know how to approach. The problem is when I try to engrave on the end of a gun (in this case a shotgun) my vice seems to be inefficient. The reason for this is because when i swing the vice with the gun barrel in it i always seem to be bending over and stretching to reach the area to be engraved. I was wondering if there is anyone out there amongst you talented people that know of a way to solve this. In other words, is there something special a fella can build so to keep the work in front of him instead of haveing to reach for the dagone area, In Minnesota with a very sore back thanx all and happy new year. BR Engraving <billyjo@sleepyeyetel.net> Hanska, Mn 507-439-6254 - Monday, December 27, 2004 at 18:36:04 (EST)
i want to wish everyone in the Guild a "Merry Christmas", & a "Happy, Healthy & Prosperous New Year", & keep up the good work! "WANTED" LOOKING FOR AN ELECTRIC CHECKERING OUTFIT--MUST BE REASONABLE--THANKS--JIM Bernard. I have used the Gold Lode from Brownells in engraving and it looks good and stayed in my shotgun for several years with no touchup. While I am here, I have an Olympus Scope with a flourescent Lightring for sale. It has 10XWF lens for $350+ shp Contact me at Longline@lightbound.com if you are interested. This is a great engraving scope Bernard. I don't think gold could be burnished into shell but soft lead wire of close diameter might work. Polish to a high luster with fine abrasive paper and selective pen plate first with copper then then gold. Gold adheres betteto a copper flash. Be sure to leave a small piece hanging out for a ground lead. Spot electro plating is done with a pen plater(Rio grande) or Texas plater. Metal should be fresh sanded and degreased with alcohol At any rate try to get the lead to stick before thinking about plating equipment. A probable and practical alternative might be to just brush in 24 kt gold lacquer (Gold Lode from Brownells). I havent tried any of this just some ideas off the top of my head. Hope something works! Jim Bernard, I haven't heard of anyone in the FEGA family inlaying into shell with gold. I would think the shell is too fragile to take the pressure needed to press the gold into a dovetail in the shell, assuming one could cut or scrape a dovetail into the material. It would be an interesting experiment. Sam I have a GRS ring light and a .5 objective for a Mieji scope for sale - Please let me know if anyone is interested. Both pieces are basicly new...... Chris shell inlay. I need to engrave fine details, but I can't have the details disappear (shell is different from metal and doesn't show the engraved lines as well), so I want to fill them with something, but neither do I like the flat look of black wax or india ink, which is the accepted means in modern shell inlay on guitars. But I was looking through Meek's book, and noticed the chapter on inlaying wire. That would be rather cool! But, again, shell is not steel. As he demonstrates, gold wire and gold sheet taps well into steel. But shell is soft, I think I read in a book on shell inlay that it is a 3 on the Moe scale of hardness. Will the shell hold in the gold the way steel does? If I prefer to save money, will it hold in brass? Dix gold? Silver? Even copper (I'm doing an inlay of a violinist, and the bow is too long and thin to cut of shell and would be easiest to engrave & inlay over everything else)? Or is copper too hard versus the shell, and I'll just end up chipping the engraved cavity in the shell (the shell is .06" thick, which should help, it's not veneer thin)? Any suggestions/reccommendations? thanks! -Bernard
Jeff, You should go to Reno, NV the end of January to the Firearms Guild and Gunmaker's Guild show at the Silver Legacy. You will have the opportunity to see and talk to a large number of engravers and see their work. I am sure you would find it worthwhile. Hello, I am hoping someone can offer me some guidance regarding locating an engraver. You see, this winter I am commissioning the creation of two custom made rifles (one for me and one for my father). Next year, it is my intention to begin the process of having the rifles engraved. The ultimate design has yet to be determined and, in fact, that is one area where I need help. However, I can say that I am seeking to have the engraver incorporate my family's crest into the design so that ultimately the rifles will not only be working guns but will become family heirlooms to be passed down through the generations. The guild has funds available for scholarships for 2005. These can be used for seminars, short classes or extended classes. The award is based on academic merit, financial need, occupational intent, or experience, or a combination thereof. Applicants must meet the following criteria: a. minimum age of 16 years or older. b. FEGA members given preference. Applicants must include the following: a. Applicant's name, address, city, state, zip, and phone number b. Class, instructor (instructor should be a FEGA member) and school c. A statement describing your interest in firearms engraving and why you are applying for this scholarship. Applications must be post marked by Friday, Dec. 24, 2004 Send applications to: FEGA Scholarship c/o Jim Blair PO Box 64 Glenrock, Wyo. 82637 For more information by phone or e-mail: 307-436-8115 or jblairengrav@msn.com Hi Laurie, You can indeed get by with just the tools you mention. I did so for much of my first 20 years or so.... but doing it this way cost me 3 carpal tunnel surgeries, two elbow releases, and shoulder surgery. I seriously doubt I would have found these surgeries necessary had we had the level of pneumatic tools available now, available to me 35 years ago. There are many more reasons for the almost unanimous switch over to power assisted pneumatic engraving tools. One is the "McDonalds mentality" that prevails in the world as we know it now. Gotta have it/learn it RIGHT NOW! The learning curve (think: time spent to become reasonably accomplished ) with the power assisted tools can sometimes be cut by as much as much as 70%... Someday it may be possible to learn even faster, by osmosis, or hooking brains together in some way to transfer skills - but in the meantime this is the fastest method. Another is that most of the students I see these days are well over 40 years old. They don't have a lot of patience. They don't have a lot of time. If they intend to get a body of artwork together during the time that they have left, they've got to utilize anything that helps. Power assisted pneumatic tools do... Still another - there are about 90% less accidents due to slippage. This means less stress on extremely expensive or important jobs. It also means you are much less likely to need a blood transfusion. I can give you at least half a dozen more reasons (speed, accuracy, etc.), but these should give you an idea. Brian P. Marshall <instructor@jewelryartschool.com> Stockton, CA 209-477-0550 - Monday, November 29, 2004 at 21:21:27 (EST) Hi everyone, I have for sale 2 tapes I purchased from FEGA. They were viewed once, which was today. I should have realized that these were geared toward firearm engraving, (dah) which I do not want to do, I would like to focus strickly on jewelry since I am a goldsmith and the demand is incredible. First tape is # 16, "Engraving Basics" by Rex Pedersen Second tape is # 27, "Lettering" with Gil Rudolph and "Devices for use at the Bench" with Bob Evans They were $30.00 each or there abouts so I guess I would want close to that as possible since they are basically brand new. (My mistake I should have known better) Next question...is anyone using Engraver's "MagnaGraver"? I tried it out, great concept but it seems a bit large for my hand to control. Also I have read through the past 3 years of archives and the feeling I got was as a beginner like myself was to invest in a power engraving system because it would make the learning process go that much quicker. Am I correct in assuming this and why?? I have gone to the homes of 2 semi retired engravers for the jewelry trade, both in their 60's and all they have is a gravers ball, sharpening stone, (no hone) and basic hand push gravers set into mushroom handles. This is how I was going about my practicing but if everything I have read in the archives is true then I need to invest a lot of money into power equiptment. Please Advise. Thanks much, Laurie p.s. if anyone is interested in these tapes please contact me through my e-mail...thanks again. Laurie <anette@peoplepc.com> Enfield, CT - Monday, November 29, 2004 at 18:25:30 (EST) Does anyone know the current contact info for an engraver friend of mine, Lee Dufresne? If you do and don't feel comfortable sending it directly to me please let him know Stan England is trying to reach him. Stan England <stanenglandengraving@msn.com> Hillsboro, OR 97124 503-681-8458 - Saturday, November 27, 2004 at 12:58:37 (EST) Chris, Thanks for the information. Jay Got a couple of questions that have been floating around in
my head for the last few months. Finally had time to get them on
the forum. Question one: Had a feller look at my work over
closely the other day. He liked it. That got me to thinking---I
know, that can be dangerous---when you look at someone's work
with a hand-held magnifier, what are you looking for? Question
two: In your mind, with regard to scrolls, what is the difference
between engraving and "bank note" engraving? Luis Chris, contact GRS abouut the courses, I suspect it will be
a week or so before they work out the details for the application
process. Jay, there are two choices initially, power assisted or
all hand power. For hand you need a few gravers, some mushroom
shaped handles, a chasing hammer and lots of time to practice. I
learned this way, made my living for over a decade with these
methods and taught basic engraving classes this way.
__________________________________- the other option is power
assisted engraving and names like GRS, Ngraver, and the Lindsey
AirGraver are your basic choices. Add to that,GRS has 3 entirely
different systems to offer, the GRavermeister, GRavermax and the
System III. Each of these offereing from the various makers have
their various pros and cons, based on user preferences and the
type work being performed. Additionaly, every system is capable
of superb work in the hands of a skilled user. I have now used
the GRavermax system for over a decade, and have now taught
probably 20 or more classes over the last eight years for GRS
using this system. I cannot recomend these classe highly enough.
You will leave after five days on Friday afternoon doing work far
beyond what I was capable of after a year of solid practice with
hammer and chisel. Scott, Thanks for the info. Could you forward the info on
how to apply for consideration for those courses,as well as the
NRA course you described. I appreciate you taking the time to
help out. Thanks, Chris I am facinated with the engraving I have seen on firearms.
I would like to pursue this art. Please recommend what equipment
I will need to get started, as well as any other advice you would
like to add. I truly could use all the help I can get. Thank you
in advance. Jay Chris, I assume you are asking about the Masters classes.
Not knowing what you've done in terms of progression in two
years, I really could not say. I know some folks that have taken
the GRS classes and doing some awesome work in less than 6
months. Those classes will have applicants submit a packet of
photos relative to their expereince and all participants will be
chosen by the teacher, either Churchill or Smith, on a totally
annoymous basis. Scott, Are these classes appropriate for someone like
myself with just a basic GRS course completed & 2 or so years
experience? -Chris I will be teaching a basic engraving class for the NRA
Schools in Trinidad Colorado March 21-25.
_________________________ Also, GRS will be hosting two Grand
Master's weeks. Ron Smith will be teaching one class, and Winston
Churchill will be teaching another. What a grand oppurtunity for
instruction and interaction. contact GRS for info about applying.
Hand Tool - Magna-Graver II with Vari-Pact Like New –
for $225.00 firm. Originally paid $325.00…in original box
with the 4 collets, and instruction sheet…used a few
times..then I purchased a new completely different system, this
handtool is no longer needed...postage/ins. extra. We are looking for photos of Terry Wallace to put in a
photo album to be displayed on his table at the Reno Show this
year. The album will later be given to his wife, Betty. If you
have duplicate photos (since the photos will not be returned),
they can be mailed to the guild office at: 3011 E Pine Dr
Flagstaff AZ 86004 If you have originals that you want to share,
you can either mail them to the Guild office with a note to
please return,(we will duplicate them and return) or scan them
and email to fegainfo@fega.com. Also include any info about the
photo if possible. Your help is greatly appreciated!!!! The "Palm Control" by Lindsay IS pretty
incredible... I have been working with the first one for a couple
months now. It can be snapped right on to either the Chasing or
Classic tools that are already out there. It's my favorite tool
on the bench these days. Took a little getting used to - but then
I've always found myself feeling around for the foot pedal, even
when I'm using a chasing hammer! Too many years of using foot
pedals for all kinds of equipment, I guess. Steve has also just
released a new "Bronze" version of the Omega. This one
is an entry level tool and starts around $500. We used one here
for the last class and no one wanted to share it without threats
of bodily injury from the next student in line. I beleive the
first one sold was purchased by Ross Mitsuyuki over in Hawaii
after that class. Maybe he'll post sumthin' about it? I know he
reads the forum. This new tool does not have the variable strokes
per minute (adjusted with a collar on the handle) that are on the
other models, but it is quite a bit more powerful. Perfect for
the titanium that Ross is engraving... For those that are interested the new Lindsay Palm Control
handle can be viewed at http://www.handgravers.com/news.htm Great
idea, can't wait till they come on the market. For sale: I have a GRS GraverMax complete set-up for sale.
I bought it, but do not have time to use it, or practice. It was
used very little it is still all but new. The hand pieces are
still in the original boxes with the original paper work. One was
never used. I will try to list all I have Starting with the
GraverMax unit itself with the air regulator and foot control
kit. I have 3 hand pieces witch are all quick-change tool heads.
The first is a model 710, this is a larger hand piece for
hammering and deep engraving. The second is a model 901, seems to
be the standard hand piece for all jobs. The third is a model 921 “monarch” This is the best hand piece that GRS has for
ultra-fine engraving. There is also a GRS ultra 850 high-speed
rotary hand piece witch spins between 300,000 and 400,000 rpm!
The Ball Vise is a Magnablock that is heavy duty and again, has
been used very little. It weighs in at 30lbs. And has a jaw
opening of 3”. I also have the 30-piece vise attachment set
for holding objects of every size and shape. This complete set
will come with a bunch of quick disconnect tool holders and
tooling. There is also a set of beading tools and a stipple tool.
If I find anything I forgot to list I will be sure to put it in
with the rest. This stuff all adds up to just under $3000.00 but
I am willing to part with it for much less. Please e-mail me with
your thoughts and if we can come to terms, I will be glad to ship
this stuff right out to you. Again this is all you need to get
started in this great art and it is all like new. I just wish I
had more time to use it. handpiece, QC holders and (large) Victor engraving block.
Great set-up for a beginning engraver or to upgrade your current
set-up. Complete for : $850.00 Rick Simmons -
handengraver@netzero.com Sorry Laurie, I am not teaching that anymore. It is still
available a few times a year. The curent instructor is Howard
Peacock. The school is in Troy, NC(montgomery is the name of the
county) I will try to find the link and post it here again.Take
care, Tom Oopps, my finger slipped, I meant to say that he is "teaching" this course... Thank you Marty I will give Ray a call on Monday. While
searching through the archives for any information that will help
me get going I came across a posting by Tom McArdle back in
February of 2002 in reference to an on-line course he is seaching
at the Montgomery Community College (in Alabama I presume?). I
tried to look it up on the web to no avail. Does anyone have any
idea if this course still exsists or another one of it's type?
Thanks, Laurie Hi All, I have a GRS ring light & .5 lens for a Meiji
microscope for sale if anyone is interested. Am asking 225.00 for
both pieces. Thanks and have a great day.... New person to the site. Hi,my name is Cliff Wightwick. I am
an appreticeship served copperplate and steel hand engraver
living in the UK. Been engraving now for 36 years. Have worked on
gun restoration and endless jewellery of all descriptions. In the
last few years I have started to engrave copperlates to recreate
old gun case trade labels. Copying originals and printing them
with an etching press etc. If any of this sounds interesting
please contact me. Cheers Cliff. will become part of your cumulative skill as an engraver
instantly. I know after 20 years of engraving that I am just
still just starting to understand lettering itself. It's one
thing to know how to engrave and another to know great lettering
style. I started with the "chicken scratch" technique
and eventually worked my way up to big bold brave cuts. Start
very slow and shallow and over time your cuts will speed up. By
making the lightest cuts possible in the beginning, you will
avoid doing any serious harm and find yourself more in control.
Why do in one cut what you can safely do in 20? Keep reworking
the line till it's as deep as you want. And if the graver ever
doesn't go where you want it, the tip is broke. Resharpening can
be constant sometimes, especially on white gold. I didn't know
how many tips I was breaking till I finally got a microscope and
could see the busted tip. Sometimes a bran new tip can break just
touching a tough metal. Like Tom says, Make the entry into
engraving gradual in your business and beware the broken tip that
is unstearable. Also finish the ends of the line first so the
graver automatically stops when you get there. Good luck, James
Roettger I am trying to find a company in the Arizona or southwest
area that can do high quality hot blue finish work for my
engraved parts. Thanks Art Laurie...give Ray Phillips a call and Ngraver co.he's in
conn. like you are and he can get to set up with what you need
and not what you don't need.There is a link under the sponsors
section Laurie, Grab a copy of James Meeks' "The art of
Engraving" that will help with the basics of sharpening
& I would suggest a graver with only a 45* face and then a
polished heel. I started with a "bevel" graver and the
heel was accomplished by polishing it on 4/0 paper(no sharpening
equip necessary except a stone). But before you do anything get
some more feedback and ideas from the board - These guys are very
great! Best of Luck, Chris I have been praticing my script letters with pencil on
paper and am now ready to start practicing in the metal. What are
the essential graver types and their numbers I need to order to
use for script and whom would you suggest purchasing them from?
Also, I will need a graver sharpener. Ilocated one on Brownells
for $37.45, should I purchase this particular one or is there
another type? Thank you all for your help. Laurie
FOR SALE**TURBO CARVER II W/SPRAY MIST**Brand New,hand
accident has forced sale.For more infomation and pictures please
e-mail me@ kreativekrafts@msn.com and I will be glad to answer
all your question and send pictures if you like.Thanks Kathy my excess eqpt sale continues: i have the mechanical
equivalent* of a Werther Panther Model P100/24AL air compressor-
http://www.werther.com/werther/panther/products/3.html - on the
block now (actually, mine has a bigger tank than the factory
model) These units are very high quality clones of Jun-Airs,
including most parts being completely interchangeable. They run
about 25-30% less expensive than Jun-Airs, largely because
they're made in Italy instead of Denmark, which means new
Werthers are merely exhorbitant, not ridiculous. *I assembled
this particular unit by combining two brand new, unused
compressor heads from a surplus dental supply with a single
control module, and mounted them on a brand new (NOT salvage)
200psi, 10 gal tank. It purrs like a kitten and will run a
Gravermax at full throttle without breaking a sweat. Unit has
less than a half hour running time during set-up and testing.
Crankcases topped off with new, fresh Jun-Air SJ-27 oil -if
you're familiar with these types of compressors you know the oil
is expensive- about $25/qt- but lasts years under normal
engraving use. New twin head Werther Panther models are about
$1500 (Jun-Airs are over $2000) Originally built for my own use
but I'm selling because I found a 3-head Jun-Air at a local
auction. Make offer. Thanks. Howdy Folks, I just read the reply from Tom to the gent
looking at a career change. Excellent advice Tom. I also just
wanted to say that for the last 2 years I have frequented this
sight and always found that the forum stuck to the topics
concerning engraving (notwithstanding the spam spew that everyone
has to deal with). I did not realize how nice that was until I
had a silly little question for another forum to answer (ebay
sellers forum). I figured that it was easier to ask people on
that forum than to wait on a reply from the mother company. When
I got into the forum I found that it was nothing like what I
found at the engraver's forum. There was so much personality
slamming, politics, and other topics that I could not get my
question answered. Note that the moderator of the forum was as
involved in the extraneous topics as the other participants. The
above was going around my elbow to get to my tail end. Short
version - Thank you for a well moderated excellent forum. I have
always received an excellent answer from the truly professional
people that participate here. Cudos my friends! D.C.
can you make an hour doing what you are doing now, and how
much work do you have? If you want to expand into engraving, it
can be a good move, but definitely should be a gradual one. A
preliminary step might be to check with jewelers in your area,
and see how much hand engraving they get done, and how they get
it done. I started locally, then got up a website which has
generated some business over the years. You will have to at least
get some basic tools and give it a try. However, investing in the
GRS,LindSay or Ngraver tools will help shorten the learning curve
quite a bit. There will be a significant invest ment though. Just
to let you know, lettering makes up a large part of nusiness
right now, including on baby cups, inside rings,pendants,
bracelets, etc. It will take awhile to get the practice and
experience you need to become proficient, and to develop a client
base. I wouls advise that your decision should depend on how
badly you just want to do it. If you are enjkoying your current
work and making a good living at it, why bother with hand
engraving? However, if you want to diversify, and think you have,
or will have, a passion for it, go ahead and pursue it. Some make
a very good living at engraving, but they didn't get there
overnight. I am now paying my bills exclusively through engraving
now, but i didn't get here overnight either, and i consider
myself very blessed to have the income i do from engraving. At
this point in my career, there is no other thing i can do that
would earn me the monmey i can make as an engraver, although i
bet you make more at what you do that i do as an engraver.
However, I love engraving, and would only give it up because of
absolute necesity.Hope this gives you some food for thought. take
care, Tom Professional calligrapher needing some advice. I have been
a calligrapher for about 12 years, being a calligrapher for the
state of Utah, teaching art at a local college etc. A year ago I
purchased a dentist drill and engrave on crystal etc. for
Dillards etc. at 'signing events' but have become very aware that
that is 'very basic' and 'crude' to what you do as true
engravers. I spoke a little to J.C.Randall and Sam Welch. Great
advice. My question. I am looking at really getting into the
engraving business, not as hobby, but as a shift in my
professional career. I have purchased the books "The Art of
Engraving" and "The Jewelery Engravers Manual" and
will pour over them several times. Spent many thousands of hours
over the years doing calligraphy and various types of art. Is
this a wise career move as I know that it will require well over
a thousand hours of diligent practice as well as a considerable
investment in order to do it the right way? I have been doing
this type of thing, over-all, for about 45 years but this is an
entirely new thing and I wonder what is the right thing to
consider and do. I live in Salt Lake City, Utah and so am away
from the hunting thing (knife and gun) but would consider other
things. Can I get your advice on what to expect to have to do as
well as the market since I am looking at it as a professional
move and not simply as a hobby working out of 'the kitchen'? I
have ordered the catalog from GRS Tools in Kansas and cannot
afford to make a stupid career decision. I have been very
fortunate in my career so far as my work is in many parts of the
world but simply want to expand. Thanks for anything you can do
to help me make a wise move or not make that move. Ron Tate me for more information. metal around the leaf to a lower level, leaving a 3
dimensional version of the leaf. I got an explaination of what I
think is it, over on the knifemakers engraver forum, only the
answer was from Spain, and the Spanish to English tranlsation is
not real good, but I think if set down and work myself through it
I will get it all figured out. I`m looking fore a engraver stereo binaculer microscope
with leight and a big engraving arear. Pleace contact me if you
will sell it. With regard Ole Bøgelund Rasmussen Denmark Mail
Boegelund@has.dk WWW.handgravering.dk msn group Danske gravører Heather, you want a copy of the book "The Art of
Engraving" by James B. Meek. Do a google search and you
should find it. If not, do a search for Brownells. They sell
gunsmithing supplies and also this book. I have found another permant marker with a fine tip.. It
has a .1 tip and In my opionion a much stronger tip. ITOYA
FINEPOINT SYSTEM. It is Japanese made. very nice JJ, You should talk to your friend Dennis, I bet he either
can get the bearings for you, or make you a set if they are not
available off the shelf. Mic them up and give him a call. I have the last engraving vise found at Winchester, In the
custom shop. send e-mail for pic's asking $300.00 Reply to Pilkington. The process you describe sounds like
or is very similar to Intaglio etching. Asphaltum is used as a
resist to the plate which is submerged in nitric acid for a time.
The asphaltum has been scratched with a needle like instrument to
produce the ink line artwork. The plate is then inked and run
through a press. I have done different techniques using real
pieces such as leaves and dusted rosin over it as a resist too.
So you might check into some Intaglio technique books for further
info. Otto hello, my husband wants to learn how to engrave guns.
however, my search for information has been fruitless. any
suggestions on books or websites or whatever to get the
information into his hands? I have a Victor engraving vise made by AD.Muehlmatt,
Cinn.OH...does anybody have the bearings for this vice? The
bearings are located in the lower part of the vise which makes
the top turn...any help will be appreciated...JJ cronites gelton transfer sheets work, confused in
Minnesota....and thanks I am looking for an engraver who can hand engrave on silver
a replica of a three page 3"x5" wedding ceremony
program - preferably on a hinged silver display (similar to
picture frame). Neil............ The Marlin is a neat little gun to
engrave. If you can find an older one, all the better but even
the newer ones are sweet. Good luck with it. I'm going to ask this question again, but this time I'll be
more specific. I need to get a new .22 rifle for my own use. I'd
like to get one that I can engrave on. I'm leaning towards a
Marlin 39 level action but I'd appreciate any advice as to what
make would be a good gun for engraving. I am not experienced in
steel or hammer technique. I do a lot of hand pushing through
silver and gold, so I don't want something too hard. While working on this engraving book, I have accumalated a
number of things in relation to various techniques over the
years. It seems I have forgotten a couple. My deepest apologies
to whoever might have given me this stuff for forgetting who you
were. _________________ Anyway, the first thing is the brass
plate. This was done by some sort of etchant process. As I
recall, this was done using real leaves. Something was done with
wax, or some resist to the leaf, and then it was ate away with
acid and then into the brass with leaf outline . It does appear
that their is some actual engraving along the veins. But thats
about all I know or can remember. _________________ The film was
used in some sort of transfer process, I am quite sure I jewelry
engraver showed it to me.. ( there are SO many ways to do
transfers, I think I could do a whole book just on various
transfer and layout methods) If you have any idea about either
one of these processes or who might have given this to me, I
would appreciate if you would contact me so that they get proper
credit and the method gets preserved in print. __________ thanks
Scott_____________ _________________ PS: the Posting Rules says I
am not allowed to post attachments... don't know why, so here's
the link. http://www.pilkguns.com/2004/brassfilm.jpg Evnt. a rotating airhandpice from Lindsay. Is there someone
there have somthing like this fore sale a litle bit chip but Ok.
Im a Danish Handengraver one off the last in denmark. So i have
wery litle kontact with other engravers . Please send my a note
if you have something i nead fore sale. Ole Bøgelund Rasmussen
Skagensvej 170 9800 Hjørring Web.www.handgravering.dk msn.group.
Danske gravører and handengravers. Description The last One at the Custom shop. Found in the
Custom shop at Winchester Repeating Arms Company, New Haven ,
Conn. in 1993 before the old building came down. This block was
the last one in the engraver area. The top of the vise is stamped
with the Winchester proof stamp and the Custom shop proof stamp.
sorry for the reserve price.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Select a picture I am about a year into constant practice. I couldnt afford
schools or travel, so I have done what I could with what I had.
Could someone tell me the best way to start lettering, what
tapes,books, or internet site is the best for reference. My last
question is, what is the best way to learn the right composition
for the area you want to cover. Thank you all for any help you
can offer. Jeff Joe Mancini, I tried to e-mail, but it wouldn't go through.
Let me know if i can be of service. Tom I'm searching for a gun engraver who can re-engrave and/or
restore engraving on Browning Auto 5 receivers. I would
appreciate any info some of the FEGA members may be able to
supply. for sale: Olympus SZ-III w/ 10x eyepieces and 0.5x
objective lens in excellent condition. (cherry, one owner! still
have original packaging and manual) also included is a Leica "S" model stand, 15" vertical post, 22" reach, modified to fit custom mount for Olympus scope. total new
value over $1500- make offer. avoid the uncertainty of eBay, buy
from a fellow engraver who has used this set-up and obviously
knows what works. Hi everyone New to the forum. I just found this forum, and
find everyones comments interesting. I am into glass etching. I
have a great machine I use. I am new at this as well. I bought a
Turbo Carver II w/ Spray Mist a complete system about a year ago
with the extra. I have never used this engraving system. Is there
someone out there with comments. about this system. About 6 weeks
ago I had a hand accident and I believe it would be best that I
just continue my business without the engraving segment. Any
helpful hint or moments. Also I would consider selling this
engraving set-up if anyone was interested. Any suggestions,
comments would gladly be accepted. Thanks Kathy Any helpful hints NEEDED FOR GUILD EXHIBITION We would like to computerize
registration at the Guilds' exhibition - "Firearms Engravers
& Gunmakers Exhibition." If you have a used laptop you
are willing to donate - please contact me at (307) 587-4297. We
need at least two laptops, PC compatible, with at least Windows
95 for an operating system. This would save the guilds' a big
expense - and would be genuinely appreciated. Jan Billeb,
Exhibition Coordinator, 22 Vista View, Cody, WY 82414 (307)
587-4297 the markers will write on any degreased surface, glass,
plastic, any kind of metal. I try to be real careful with the
tips though, if you try to write too hard with them, they will
get smushed and then you will get a bigger writing surface. the
Staedtlers seem to be more prone to this than the Sakura's but
they will do it to. I try not to let inexperineced people use
them, cause they write too hard Scott, Are the markers ok for sterling, nickel, copper,
etc.? Thanks, D.C. Allan, I can't imagine using a scribe for letter layouts
anymore. I use a red to draw my horizantal lines for the caps and
the lowercases letters,and the then use a red or blue to layout
the letters_______as the GRS class, that July class was for this
year, GRS is currently working on next years schedule, which is
supposed to be done sometime in October which is a big job
considering all the intructors personal scheudles, GRS show
schedules etc, But as to your question I am sure you would do
fine on this interemidate level class Scott, Thanks for the tip about the markers. I do a lot of
sterling trays and it sounds like a great alternative to the
steel scribe. I see you are teaching a knife engraving class in
July and I am thinking of registering, even if it does mean
Emporia in the middle of the summer. Is this for any level of
experience and what kind of things do you think you will be
covering. Thanks William, I gave up using pencils 15 years ago. You need to
got to a good art supply store, and look for some fine point
permament markers. The only two brands that I know of are SAKURA
Microperm (japanese made) and Staedtler Permanent Lumocolor
(german made) The Sakura is made in sizes 01-05 and the Staedtler
is made in S, M, L. You want to get the S or the 01. They are
both available in the normal colors. ---Sharpie markers available
everywhere, in their ULTRA FINE POINT, are way too big, they are
equivalent or bigger than the 05 or L in the Sakura or the
Staedtler.----- You will need to degrease the surface with
rubbing alcohol before you write on the steel, but it will stay
there until you either sand it off, engrave through it or use
alcohol to remove it. You might buy the FEGA tape that I did in
February about scroll design and theory and its use throughout
history for more info on these markers and scroll design. Chris
DeCamillus's tape on bulino is also an excellant tape and part of
the set.-----Oh, and while you are at the art supply store you
will find 100's of diffrent looking fine point markers that look
like they should work, but they are not permanent, a simple test
is write on your fingernail and then immediately try to rub it
off with your finger . If it smears, you don't want it. hello, im an aprentist hand engraver, i have currently just
finished my City & Guilds advance (credit) and i want to
either get into the gun or jewelery hand engraving in america as
the British market is slow at the moment, so any advice on how to
get into the american market would be greatly welcomed, please
feel free to eamil me, thank you HELP!! Please!!! i am trying to get some information on how
to draw very small scrolls and or patterns on revolvers. I would
like to know if anyone else has this problem, I have tried
different kinds of lead pencils up to 9h which can be used for a
very long time but,,,it does not copy well at all on metal. As
far as printers go I am not aquanted with laser printers, can a
person scan what he has sketched and then use a laser printer to
transfer the pattern to the revolver? Ohthers have tried to help
me on this but with little progress on MY part only, Is there a
felt tip mareker that has a micro fine tip a person can
use,,,very lost in Minnesota, Thank you all, I appreciate your
help. I'm looking for advice as to what kind of 22 I should get
for my own use. I am currently keeping busy engraving on silver
and gold and have no real plans to get into guns ( we're all
specialists these days ). As it happens I need to get a new 22
and figured I might as well get one that I could engrave. I would
gladly take advice as to what a beginer to guns should start
with...Good gun but not too hard. Hi, I am new to engraving and would like to know what kind
of tools I can use to carve patterns on pvc (pvc pipe). thank you Sorry for the "down time" on the forum. There was
some of the code messed up. Things are fixed now. $100.00 Drawing. Just a reminder that if you are planing o
making a donation of an item for the 2005 Auctions/Raffle
fundraiser You may as well get the info to me by Sept. 15th 2004
and be eligable for the $100.00 Early Bird donation drawing. So
far the odd are very good. This drawing is open to all FEGA & ACGG members making a donation of $50.00 or more. This is not for
the commercial exhibitors, they already gat a prize. I need to
have the pledge by 9/15/2004. See the ENGRAVER issue 63 page 6
for more info Mail e-mail or call. Roger Sampson CoChairman 2005
Auctions/raffle Fudraiser I have got 15 handgravers(13 never used),crocker sharpener
and the 'art of hand engraving' by Jmaes B meek.offers,I am in
the uk so posage to the usa ect will be extra.e-mail if
interested this story about Ngraver company owner Ray Phillips and his "NEW" bicycle...
http://www.norwichbulletin.com/news/stories/20040819/localnews/1074661.html
Thanks Tim and all you others who have written to me about
choosing the best engraving system. You have given me a lot to
think about...but I do believe I now know which one to
choose...my original gut feeling....I am glad you have reinforced
it. Thank you for all your help. Jill E. Jill E, I was in the same spot not too long ago, it can be
confusing to weigh all the features of each. What it boils down
to is, either will do the job you want to do. The GRS unit is
made to get people engraving as soon as possible, they offer pre
shaped gravers that fit their handles. It is well made and will
do any of the engraving you want to do. But the Lindsay AirGraver
is made by hand, one at a time, and in my humble opinion is the
best on the market. And Steve has addressed issues with his tool
that others have not given thought to. You can now get a handle
for the AirGraver that has all the control in the handle, no foot
pedal. This is good for people that have difficulty using a foot
pedal, like with a handicap. But the “Palm-push” handle
also solves a problem that is an issue with every power graver
out there, how do you operate a foot pedal while using a
“Stand-up Engraving post”. It is hard to stand on one
foot and use a foot pedal, with the new handle you have this
solved. Many engravers working on long guns prefer to stand, so
they can move around the barrel. If GRS had invented this idea,
would they have made it to fit the existing tools out there, or
would they have made a whole new tool and charged for it. Steve
made the new handle to fit all of the tools out there, so you
don’t have to throw everything out and start over. Steve
cares about the people that have invested in his tools, he wants
to help them to improve in the engraving arts, not just how much
he can get them to spend. That’s the real difference in the
two manufacturers, it’s your choice from there. When you are
ready to start to buy your equipment, send me an email, I have
found some suppliers that are cheaper for the everyday stuff you
will use that can save you some money. Be sure to put
“FEGA” in the subject so I don’t delete it. For
classes, check out Jewelry Art School, much cheaper then GRS and
he has both tools to try out. GRS has told me that I can’t
bring my AirGraver to a class, that kicked them off my list, I
don’t need to pay that kind of money to get a sales pitch
for a week. Brain Marshall is a great person to teach you what
you will need to know. Good Luck, Tim metalchipper@aol.com I'm new to engraving and am trying to decide whether to get
a GRS Graver Max or one of Lyndsay's tools. I need to know which
is better...as I am wanting to learn to do deep relief and bulino
and those nice carved leaf scrolls...and some lettering. I guess
I covered it all....and have any of you found any drawbacks to
either products. Thank you. I had better luck today with the transfer of inkjet printed
acetate onto sterling. I again put down a just opaque fresh layer
of white gouache then I took my acetate freshly printed from the
epson 2500 using the draft setting for a minimal ink layer and
very carefully, without smudging the slightly still wet ink
positioned it with scotch tape. Then I took a wooden burnisher
and rubbed it with no acetone this time. As I was rubbing it I
could see the black ink turn grey where I had burnished it. When
I removed it I had a perfect image. I could see ever pixel of the
print. The image was completely ready for scribing. Moral of the
story is I spent a whole day learning how to save myself two days
worth of layout work. i all most forgot a good thing about this method is you can
pickup and check to see how your design is tranfering.just put
some tape on one side of your transparency and add heat until you
get the tranfer you want.but like i said watch out for the hot
metal. laters Curt Hay, Tom whats up, James,if you are going to try the heat
method make sure the metal is very clean. i use acetone first
then finish cleaning with alcohol. then start the heat transfer.i
use a 3m transparency film made for lazer printers.i know they
make for inkjets to.before i got my lazer i used transparency
film made by 3m the # was 3mppm2200 but it is made i think only
for copiers. well i hope this helps. Curt I sometmes still scribe a design in acetate, and then put
some fine black powder in the scribe marks, and then use clear
tape to make a pull. I will put the pull down on a mixture of
grease and bees wax, or tacky damar varnish. I used to do all my
transfers this way, and still do script monograms this way, as I
can draw them faster by hand then on the computer. Tom ps Curt,
good to see you!:) like Tom i use a lazer printer to do my transfers. mostly i
use paper to make my transfers. i do use acetate sometimes if i
really need to see the placement of a design. but most times the
paper transfer works fine. to get a good transfer useing acetate
.i have found it take heat and lots of it. i use a iron set on
the cotton setting.it will take sometime to find out how long to
leave the iron on to get best transfer. but just keep trying....
i learned one thing paper is a lot better way to do transfers.
but if you are going to do acetate transfers WATCH OUT FOR THE
HOT METAL..... Hi I just wanted to drop a quick note to thank Roger
Sampson for the time and effort he took to teach a 1 week class
on 'Hammer and Chisel' engraving.It is so helpfull when those
that are educated in these skills give the information so freely!
I forget who said it but "You can't steal talent, it has to
be earned." Thanks again. Fred and Tom thanks for your replys. Fred when you scribe
through the at the end I am not sure I understand how the image
is transfering to the metal. Do you just press hard on the
transparency and it leaves a mark on the metal or do you poke a
series of dots through? I did got the overhead projector plastic
transparency and regular acetate, The stuff made for inkjet
printers held on to its' ink and did not transfer to the metal
when I rubbed the back side with acetone. However today I was
able to transfer an image on to sterling coated with a thin layer
of white guoache using regular acetate with the image printed in
reverse on an old epson 2500. I taped the image in place and
rubbed the back side with acetone on a Q-tip. A faint but clear
image appeared and I touched it up here and there with a pencil.
The coating of guoache made a receptive surface which helped
prevent smearing. I printed the image on the matt side of the
acetate. I used three diferent printers, one with new none water
soluble and two with water soluble ink and only one type of water
soluble ink succeeded in transfering. It would seem the type of
ink is everthing. Any other tips would still be appreciated.
Thanks On accetate-If you go to the office supply store you can
purchase accetate designed for laser of injet. They are used to
make overhead transpartences, you can scribe the lines, flip them
over and scribe fro that side. The print shop should have told
you about print overheads, I'd find a printer who knows his
business-fred James, I have used acetate to make the reverse image of a
design, but then a paper copy of that reverse image must be made
on a copier for the transfer to work. I would think if you use
acetate that is rated for laser printers, you should not have any
problems. The easier way is to have a program that will produce
reverse images for you, and a laser printer to print them out.
then you don't need the acetate at all. I use corel draw,but also
my HP scanner has a mirror option when accepting the scan into
the computer. Take care, Tom I am interested in learning about acetate transfers of
images as I am finding that computers can be of assistance in
laying out images and fonts. I did some experimenting and I can
get a faint and somewhat fuzzy transfer from an inkjet printer on
acetate which then rubs off when acetone is applied to the back
side with a cotton swab. I went to some print shops to see about
getting them to print it and kind of got the run around. (They
were really just afraid the stuff would melt in there machines
and ruin them.) One shop directed me to a store that has an
inkjet that can print on t-shirts. One experiment with printing
on acetate clogged up our newest epson printer but left the older
models ok. any help would be appreciated. Thanks I am interested in learning about acetate transfers of
images as I am finding that computers can be of assistance in
laying out images and fonts. I did some experimenting and I can
get a faint and somewhat fuzzy transfer from an inkjet printer on
acetate which then rubs off when acetone is applied to the back
side with a cotton swab. I went to some print shops to see about
getting them to print it and kind of got the run around. (They
were really just afraid the stuff would melt in there machines
and ruin them.) One shop directed me to a store that has an
inkjet that can print on t-shirts. One experiment with printing
on acetate clogged up our newest epson printer but left the older
models ok. any help would be appreciated. Thanks news ok thanks scott, much appreciated, The best way to remove barrels is an oak formed jaw with
rosin, but unless you are expereinced in removing barrels, I
would absolultely not do it yourself especially on pistols. pay a
real gunsmith to do it, its much cheaper than trying fix a warped
frame or repairing marred lettering What is the correct method of taking barrels off of
pistols? I was told to use brass jaws in my vice and also to use
rosin. Is there a better way? I don't want to mar anything as i
am quite leary of taking off the barrels vise similiar to the one used by Lynton McKinsey and shown
on his video instruction tape. Since he modified the vise shown
on the tape, I really only need the machinist vise and the
adjustable ball part. Please contact me at artg26@cox.net Hello This is a note to tell you new engravers who are
looking for a good scope, cheap cheap cheap. There is an Olympus
SZ for sale on EBAY. It will sell on Aug. 6 or it says it can be
bought now for $195.00 This is an unbelieveable price. This is
one of the best scopes ever made. It has an objective lens that
will give it 6 inches of working distance which Is great for most
engraving and background stamping. This Stereo Zoom Scope is
Guaranteed Even. Only setback is it does not have a light with it
or a Boom Stand but a 100W bulb and a gooseneck light will
suffice for the light and you can make a boom stand for less than
$100 or if you can't, I can make you one. I made mine and I have
one of these scopes that I bought from EBAY and I paid more for
mine too. It is a great scope with zoom up to 40X If you are
interested in this great scope Type in EBAY in your Search and
then go to Electronics and such and click on it and when it comes
up Type in 3831031921 If you want a scope don't miss this one.
Call or Email me if you need help finding it. Hi Neil____ I am little unsure what you mean that you are "interested in script engraving of guns." Script or
lettering of any sort, is typically a small part of the overall
amount time spent doing engraving work on a firearm. Scrollwork
and Games Scenes will normally alway be your biggest time
consumer. If you are interested doing gun work, you will learn
some quick basics of letterings in the GRS basic classes, but the
biggest emphasis is learning to use the tools and sharpen the
gravers correctly which translates into whatever style of
engraving you choose to concentrate on. I am interested in script engraving of guns and will be
taking my first class with GRS this October, 2004. Is
script/letter engraving a seperate item or part of gun engraving?
Sorry for my ignorance, this is new to me. Sorry for my Hello all, I have been testing a sharpening fixture by Les
Brooks.(minigun17@yahoo.com). If you are familiar with the
crocker style sharpening fixtures, you will have some idea of
what it is like. However, Les' tool removes the disadvantages of
those fixtures. His tool has calibrated markings for face and
heel angles, as well as a means for adjusting the fixture to
compensate for diferent tool bit lengths. This means the angles
are always valid, regardless of the variations in tool bit
length. Another advantage is that Les' fixture has rollers on the
base, so it is easy to move the fixture when sharpening the tool
bits. If you don't have a power sharpening system yet, I would
recommend you contact Les at the above e-mail. I have found His
tool to be very well made, and a great improvement in time /
accuracy over the crocker sharpener I had been using. Although
the final cost has not been yet determined, it seems that it will
be significantly less than the GRS dual angle fixture. This tool
does not have all the markings that the GRS fixture has, and does
not seem to be intended as a replacement for it. perhaps Les
could adapt the design for use with a power hone for those who do
not have the dual angle fixture already, but I would think the
the GRS product would be better for the power hone setup. Since
proper tool sharpening is especially critical for beginners, as
well as the rest of us, this fixture is especially intended as an
aid to help beginners make progress intially with less of a cash
outlay. Les is very easy to deal with, and can send pictures of
the fixture to you if you are interested. I am so impressed with
it that I am sending him a check so I can keep the one he sent
me. I will probably still want to get a power hone someday, but
with this new fixture, and the pre ground tool bits available
today, it is no longer a critical issue right now. I hope some of
you getting started, or who are not yet set up with a power
sharpening system will contact Les and give his fixture a try. I
am certainly benefitting from it more than he is from the Sale.
Talk to you all soon, Tom Steve Lindsay just sent me the first of his recently
patented “palm controllers” to try out last week!
Designed to fit on his Air Chasing and Classic tools, this new
improvement makes the foot pedal obsolete. Basically what he has
done, is to take all of the parts that are contained in his
standard foot control – shrunk them, and stuffed them inside
the handle of the tool. This palm control handle will be
available to fit on all of his previous tools except the Omega
version. Just twist off the old handle and twist on the palm
control. Connect the tubing directly to your air compressor
regulator. Set it for 40 – 45 lbs. of pressure and go to
work. ALL of the control is now in the handle, length of stroke
as well as the power of the impact. You need never reach for
controls with your arms or legs again! For me this will help a
LOT – having had two crushed ankles from some years back,
and the recent damage to my shoulder. I now engrave with a sling
hung from a cord and spring arrangement - hung from the
ceiling… While this isn’t fun or comfortable, I get
by… Instead of pressing on the pedal to get the tool to
respond, you simply push lightly on the graver. The
“feel” of traditional palm pushed gravers with all the
advantages of a power assist! I gotta admit old habits die hard,
and I found myself feeling around on the floor for the foot pedal
quite often. It also takes a little time to become tuned in with
this tool. Again I think that this has to do with habits you
acquire over the years. (I've been using foot controls for 28
years now.)It couldn’t be caused by getting old could it? A
beginner or a peron who normally palm pushed a graver would not
have to overcome these habits. After about 6 hours I felt
comfortable and confident with this amazing new technology. I
have made no adjustments to the tool since it arrived. The
settings that it arrived with are perfect for a wide variety of
engraving and stone setting, but Steve tells me that it can be
further fine tuned to a particular person’s style or a
particular job or technique. I only wish that these had been
around 30 years ago. Might have saved me those 3 carpal tunnel
and 2 elbow release surgeries… I will submit a review
accompanied by photos for the FEGA Engraver in the next week or
so. Anyone who wants to try this new palm controller is welcome
to stop by my studio. Please phone ahead of time. I don’t
sell any tools here, just practice materials and graver blanks.
You can contact Steve at his website for the official release
date & price. (Lindsayengraving.com) hi all has anyone in the room got a copy on vhs or cd rom
off how to engrave for begginers or anything that could help me
become a better engraver,I will pay any postage cheers Have your jewlery burrs recutt. Notify
Joe-breecher@webtv.net for details. My heart inside out-------- Hello everyone, This is to let
you know about my recent medical condition and the future. I am
currently at home recovering from open heart surgery where I had
my aortic valve replaced with a mechanical valve (St. Jude style)
last week, Thursday July 22nd. I am doing amazingly well. I know
that to some of you this will be a total surprise, but truly we
did not see the situation as being serious enough to warrant
public broadcast until now.
-------------------------------------------------------------
Five months ago (February of 2004) I had a physical in
anticipation of my upcoming 40th birthday. The doctor doing the
physical spent an extraordinary amount of time listening to my
heart, finally resulting in his statement, “Your heart
sounds terrible, you need to see a cardiologist right away.”
I was aware that I had heart murmur (leaking valve) since birth
but it had never been an issue in any physical activity and
honestly I had no indications that anything was wrong now other
than this strong verbal pronouncement. I did follow-up, the same
day in fact, with an ultrasound of my heart, which resulted in a
chart of numbers that was beyond my ability to interpret. I faxed
them off to the only real heart specialist I was acquainted with,
Dr. Mike Petracek a heart surgeon from Nashville that I knew was
one of the best in country. I really knew Mike through his wife
Connie Petracek, a US Shooting Team member who had been on the
’92 and ’96 Olympic Teams, and had been one the top
pistol shooters when she was competing.
------------------------------------------------------------ Mike
indicated the results showed the leakage was beyond an acceptable
level, and had started to enlarge (damage) the heart but was very
minor at this point. We ultimately did some more testing but the
upshot was that I should plan to have the valve replaced while my
heart was still overall very healthy, sometime within the next 12
months, to keep it healthy. So we did some figuring of my
scheduled events of 2004 (engraving, shooting events, National
Guard stuff etc, and picked July 22 as the day to do it with the
following 12 week recovery time.
----------------------------------------------------------- Well,
we did the deed last Thursday and I can’t say enough about
Mike. Mike has surgeons from all the US and the world who come to
learn from him and he has gone overseas including China to teach
his heart surgery techniques. Its funny he made a comment about
surgeons that I see of engravers and shooters as well, that rang
very true to me. He said that most surgeons have the ability to
cut and sew, but very few have the ability to visualize the
overall project and how it will come out in the end. They spend
too much time worrying about how it will come it while there are
doing it, rather than having that assurance that it will come out
as intended, which is of course detrimental to the final product.
------------------------------------------------------------
Rhonda had stayed with Mike and Connie during my surgery and been
helping Connie pick and can the vegetables from Connie’s
huge garden., something Rhonda would normally be doing at our
house this time of year anyway. Connie was glad for the help and
Rhonda was happy to have something to occupy her mind other than
thinking about me. By Saturday afternoon the 24th, I was doing
well enough to be checked out of the hospital, and go home with
Mike to let him monitor me from his house. What a real treat to
discover that Mike was gourmet cook as well, I was eating
fantastically prepared buffalo, elk, and red fish from the Gulf
along with all the fresh veggies from the garden over the next
few days, Wow! It amazed that I could be doing so well 3 days
after surgery, including walking up and down 2 flights of stairs
on a regular basis. Don’t get me wrong, I am still sore,
tired, groggy at times, and of course I am on various medications
at the moment, to include some pain stuff, but overall I am doing
really well all things considered, Fantastic really.
------------------------------------------------------------ I
expect a complete recovery, with 12 weeks being required for the
breastbone to knit back together where it was sawn in half. I got
home yesterday, and will continue to walk and do everything
within limits to hasten my recovery. Probably even do some
engraving in the next week or so.
------------------------------------------------------------ If
you want to send me an e-mail that’s fine, the computer is
where I will be spending the bulk of my time the next few weeks.
If you feel the need to send flowers, I would much prefer that
you make a donation in that amount to USA Shooting, One Olympic
Plaza, Colorado Springs, CO 80909. www.usashooting.com
------------------------------------------------------------
Anyway I consider myself very fortunate to have friends like Mike
and Connie, and friends like you. You all are a very important
part of who I am. --------- My Best wishes to all of you, Scott to write. get the :jewelry Engravers manual"by Hardy.
There are a lot of different ways to engrave lettering, and the
size matters too. A square, and coople of small rounds, and a
couple of narrow flats will get you going. take are, Tom Simple question, hard to put into words. What number graver
do I use for script engraving,block lettering,old english, etc...
I am confused since there are so many different gravers and
numbers. What are the basic numbers I need to start out with and
when do I use that number with what font. Also should I get them
from GRS or some other vendor? Presently I am using a flat 38, is
this right? Thanks for your help!!! Laurie Hi Brian, Sorry I got on a roll this morning, I should have
checked what I was writing, it is rather long isn't it. M. E. in
my case stands for Mechanical Engineer but I have been a utility
manager for the last 15 years, retired/disabled. I guess my wife
is right about my hot air content. Safety has always been a prime
concern in either field, and it will get me going in a minute. I
was injured 3 years ago in an auto accident and I found myself
with a lot of time on my hands in between surgeries. I was
looking at a magazine one day and admiring a engraved double
barreled shotgun, I said to myself “I wish I had the time to
learn how to do that”, then I realized I had the time. At
the time I had nerve damage in my right arm and both legs, so I
had to be creative about how I got into it. Ask Steve Lindsay, he
was sure I was out of my mind. But 3 years later and I love it, I
wake up thinking about getting to the bench and what I want to
try out doing today. I’ve yet to try to engrave a gun yet,
but it will come. I’ve filled up enough space on this board,
thank you all for the info you provide. Have a great week. Is
there a phone number for the FEGA office that I can call? Thanks
Tim Clark Hi Tim, Thanks for expounding more on the shop safety
issues. I'm curious about the M.E.? Was that Mechanical Engineer
or Medical Examiner? Mr. Marshall is absolutely correct, the real dangers in
your shop are the ones you don’t see. An air compressor is
one of the worst things you can use to clean your shop/bench.
Always use a damp rag to wipe down dust from your hone and
cuttings on and around your bench. The materials used in the
engraving trade are far more dangerous then most people know, but
it is often the other products we use to complete a project that
are the real danger, cleaning solvents, hardwood dust, Titanium
dust, Ivory dust, metal chips from alloys, and glues. These
dangers are as a result of what we are making at the time, and as
a result, the materials we work on often change from job to job.
You might be cutting titanium one day, then working on hardwoods
the next. On a nice spring day you might want to open the doors
and windows and let the breeze blow through the shop, think of
all the projects and materials you have used in the shop since
you last opened the doors, that is what is blowing around in your
shop now. I was an M.E. for 30+ years in my previous life, and
worked as a tool and die maker when I was younger going to
school. Here’s some tips I have learned over the years
working with machinery and safety, I’m sure many of you
already know them, but for those that don’t: 1. CLEAN YOUR
WORK AREA EVERY DAY OR WHEN YOU CHANGE PROJECTS. Use a wet/damp
mop to sweep your floors, not a push broom and wear a mask when
doing it. I keep a clean wet rag in a shallow bowl right next to
my bench with a bottle of machine oil, I wipe down my bench,
vise, turntable and power hone 3 to 4 times a day. A hose works
on the shop floors if you are set up with drains and can do it,
but keep the pressure low on any nozzle you use and don’t
try to blast the dust out. If you have to vacuum, use long hoses
and place the vacuum outside or by a open door with a fan blowing
the air passed the vacuum and out of the breathing space. 2.
Change rags every day or when changing materials like brass to
silver to stainless. This also helps in saving shavings for the
foundry to recycle your gold and silver. 3. Always wear a mask
when wiping down or cleaning, wash your hands before and after.
4. Wash your shop clothes separately from your other clothes they
have the dust in them too. An apron will help keep the dust on
your clothes to a minimum, but now you have to remember to wash
your apron. And watch that apron around machinery, you don’t
want to get pulled into a spinning tool. Shirt tails out and long
sleeve’s are a no-no in any shop with spinning tools. For
this reason I am also careful about when to wear gloves or not,
depending on the tool you are working with. 5. Keep a box of rags
and a bucket of water, if you don’t have a sink in your
shop, it will make wiping down a habit if you do it a lot. Of
course with metal objects use some oil to protect the steel. 6.
If you have kids, don’t let them into your shop unless they
wear a mask. And make them take a shower after, kids put their
fingers in their mouths, and they usually do it after touching
something. WASH YOUR HANDS 7. When you come home at night,
don’t hug your kids until you are clean, this is hard since
the kids want a hug as soon as you get home, don’t give in.
Some of the saddest cases are of kids that just were exposed to
hazardous materials such as asbestos and lead from their fathers
working as auto mechanics. 8. Learn what is safe to use and what
is not, solvents and cleaners are very dangerous and can cause
serious problems when mixed, read the MSDS sheets for any
product. Be alert to dangers that are around you. One of the
worst accidents I investigated involved two crews working in a
trench together, one crew was working cutting a ductile iron pipe
with a circular saw, the other was gluing a PVC pipe to a
coupling mounted to the ductile pipe 25 feet away, but in the
same trench. The fumes from the glue ignited with the dust from
the ductile pipe inside the pipe, ductile iron pipe contains
magnesium which is used to align the molecules of the steel,
making the steel tougher to break, and resistant to bending. The
ignition resulted in a metal fire that killed everyone in the
trench, 8 closed caskets. And by the way, very few fire
extinguishes will put out a “metal fire”. If you think
you don’t need to think about this problem because you
don’t work on ductile pipe, think again, do you work with
springs? I’m sure you have heard of people making knives out
of truck leaf springs? Was that knife your engraving made that
way, do you know? Think about how a knife blade gets tough and
hardened to 58-60 rc at the same time, check the charts for ATS
34 or 440, although in smaller amounts. The build-up of dust
could present a problem, why take a chance. And don’t even
get me started on titanium, keep titanium wet at all times when
grinding, and dispose of the dust in a slurry form in a separate
bag from the rest of your garbage. Don’t let the dust get
airborne it can ignite very easily. 9. If you smoke, don’t
do it in the shop, not for the fire danger, though that is a big
problem. You are taking a cigarette and touching it to your lips
with your DUSTY hands, you flick the ash with your dusty thumb.
WASH YOUR HANDS 10. When you think that you have cleaned
everything within an inch of it’s life, until only the paint
can come off next, you are about 50% done cleaning. 11. WASH YOUR
HANDS, AND DO THIS OFTEN. This should be number 1., but I’m
not going to re-number this message. It’s not that I’m
a cleaning nut, it is the safety that is what I’m talking
about, and what is important. When dust is the problem only
cleaning can help solve that problem. It’s hard to work in a
“well ventilated area” and still keep dust from
becoming airborne, that’s where wiping down can help. A tip
on ventilation, it is also a preferred method of ventilation to
force clean air into a space then try to exhaust bad air out, of
course both usually works best. And please don’t mount your
dust collector inside the shop/house, I can’t tell you how
many factories and shops I have seen with this setup. It does no
good to exhaust your dust collector into the same breathing space
as your shop or worst your house, even if it is in another room.
If the wife doesn’t want you putting a hole through the wall
to exhaust the dust collector outside, ask her how she would feel
to find the roof two addresses down the street one morning. I am
new to engraving, and these are just some of the problems areas
that I have seen since I have taken up this trade, there are many
more areas that could be dangerous too I’m sure. Everyone
stay safe, live a long life and make beautiful things for all to
enjoy. Sorry this is so long, but organizing safety plans and
hazard mitigation was one of the hats I wore for 22 years before
I was injured in an auto accident. Talk about ironic. Good Luck,
Tim Clark metalchipper@aol.com A side note to what I just posted. The same student told me
that one of the most dangerous items that we all take for granted
in our shops are the solvents. For example he referred to lacquer
thinner as “liver solvent”… It goes right through
your skin, and eventually destroys your liver. Almost everything we do these days has some hidden drawback
and the engraving art is no exception. Cobalt, nickel, and other
components of modern day cutting alloys are listed on the MSDS
for each material. I actually had a student who worked HazMat in
his day job. We spent quite a few hours going over some of the
more obvious poisons, carcinogens, and other nasty stuff found in
an average workshop. He told me that in a one man engraving shop
the dust from sharpening cutters was something that should
definitely be considered – but that the particles produced
from grinding gravers were pretty heavy and as long as reasonable
care was taken to remove the residue the danger was
“minimal”. He did say that it would NOT be wise to blow
off the bench or your sharpening equipment with compressed air.
Not wise to vacuum either – unless you have one with a HEPA
or micron filter. Best, simplest way was with wet paper towels,
which are then wrapped in a plastic ziplock freezer bag to be
disposed of. You DO NOT want to help these little particles get
airborne! In the end YOU need to take the responsibility to find
out what you are working with and how it may affect your health.
While I believe that my personal bout with cancer was caused by
the cadmium fumes in the silver solder I used on a daily basis
for 20 years - it is entirely possible that one or more other
carcinogens were responsible in part or entirely. No one knows
for sure. My personal opinion about gravers for stainless are as
follows – please remember that these are my opinions and
others on this forum may differ… I believe that the
Glensteel is a couple degrees softer than Mo-Max. (If that is the
brand you are referring to?) I used Mo-Max for 10 years myself.
Most "carbide" tools also contain small amounts of
carcinogious (is that a word?) metals. And most carbide is
brittle, as you may know. The best balance of hardness,
toughness, and all around use that I have found is with the
Lindsay “Carbalt” graver blanks. I sharpen an ordinary
HSS graver 6 or 7 times to one time with the Carbalt. They cost a
little bit more, take a minute or two longer to sharpen, but the
time you save having to re-sharpen is worth far more… Above
all – and I’ll repeat myself here: READ THE WARNINGS,
READ THE MSDS, RESEARCH THE SUBJECT YOURSELF – then take the
responsibility to make your own decision. I am a perfect example
of what can happen if you don’t pay attention... Hello I am a new engraver and I have some Cobalt gravers
that I have been using. I notice that GRS no longer has Cobalt
for health reasons. Can you tell me what the health reason is. Is
it breathing the dust while sharpening. What is the alternative
for Stainless. Does the glen steel work for stainless hi all just like to tell the room that I have just engraved
a brass plaque with a scroll design and it has come out rather
good for my standards,I used the hammer and gravers technique. I
just show's that if you keep trying and don't give up that you
will slowly progress and also listen to the advise that people
give you on this site.The main point that I was happy with is
that I did,nt slip across the piece and ruin it.It is only in the
last to days that I have found the right angle to hold the graver
at with out going to deep or to shallow,so its now a case off
more & more practice. don't now if this tip is anygood to any
off the room but when I was laying out my design I did,nt have
any off the chineese white ( I think that is what its called) to
I mixed a little white emultion paint and some water and rubbed
it onto the metal with my finger then used a hair-dryer to get it
go off ,then I was able to draw onto it. regards ian Tom, I plan on using my gravermax with a carbide bit fot
some of the cutting and then comming in with the 850 rotary and
barley touching the areas that would be darkened with ink or rust
oleum with heavier or more touches in the darkest areas or the
areas that would be darker, I have used this technique on glass
engraving only in reverse, (touching the areas more that would be
the lighter) all i do is use a scanned copy in gray tones to give
me the areas that need more attention than others, any more help
would be greatly appreciated for engraving is very new to me, I
have only been at it about 4 months and brother is it a son of a
gun to get used to, no pun intended. It really depends, in my opinion, on the type of finish on
the metal. A satin finish stainless would work well if you used
the techniques you described. In my experience, miror finshes do
not look good with black in the cuts.Also, how hard is the blade?
What type of tool do you plan to use? Take care, Tom Interesting Tom concerning the process in silver or
(stainless in my case) I was given a long sort of machette knife
and the fella asked me if i could engrave a mountain lion on it,
since i have been an airbrush artist for years i figured i could
do it, now,, You have got me a little gun shy, I thought i could
just cut it stipple it and then darken it. Any more help would be
greatly appreciated thank you Did the engravers of the late 19th century use a particular
pattern or style on the guns they engraved. Sort of a trademark?
I was interested in an engraver from this time period who used
scroll work, but incorporated what appear to be grape vines and
and bunches of grapes. Can anyone identify this engraver? Also,
was it common to purchase a gun in a blued finish from the
factory and then have it plated and engraved somewhere else?
Thanks, Chris hi has anyone got plans off how to make a ball vise out off
a bowling ball,if so can you e-mail me or let me now and I will
give you my address hey James, This work can be challenging. I did a simple
portrait on a silver zippo once. It really ended up almost
looking like a negative. The cuts in silver tend to look "whiter" than the polished background. I would get a
polished piece of scrap silver, and try out a Dog on that. make
the cuts where you want the dog to be white, leave the black
areas relatively untouched, except for some lines to suggest
form. Then see how it looks. That is the best i know to suggest.
You may want to look at some glass engravings to see the effect,
since the stippling in the glass looks white, and the plain glass
is "darker" in a sense. Hope this helps. Tom render a couple of black and white pointer dogs onto the
side of a 12' silver bowl. The image of the dogs will be about
1.5 inches high. I will be leaving the image bright and
undarkened when finished. Question: how do I best create the
sense of black and white contrast on these small dogs on a bright
surface? I have noticed horizontal shade lines appear to reflect
more light than vertical. Should I just render like I was doing a
printing plate. I have noticed that some small engraving on
jewelry is done in very shallow relief like the bas relief of a
coin. Rendering in bright metal seems to create challenges
different from when one darkens the engraving with ink or oxide.
Any suggestions or referals to examples would be appreaciated. Hi my name is Andy Hawgood and I am emailing to ask you if
could help me engrave a number of different metal products with
custom engraving. One of my projects is to engrave a number of
bicycles from top to bottom, the entire bike. I would be do a run
of these that are going to be a limited edition bike promotion. I
don't know if you guys do that stuff, but if you have ideas or
leads please contact me and I would be much obliged. William, coloring using paint is done essentially the same
as doing color scrimshaw. I have seen some really awesome work
done this way, but in my opinion, it cheapens the overall
presentation. Some like it and pay big bucks for it and some
don't. To each is own. Of course you can color to the extent of
various alloys and materials, yellow, green, red, white golds,
and other metals. ---As far as background removal with a hi speed
rotatry, it can be done, but it takes a lot practice, in the
meantime you can screw up more the you can fix. most of the time,
I stick with gravers to remove material in tight areas. the
rotary is for the bigger spaces. A lot depends on what size
scrolls you cut and consequently what size background chunks you
have to remove. Of course, some of us avoid removing background
on harder metals/guns.... selective bead blasting would be my
prefferred background treatment in such a case. Hope this helps Hello folks, I wondering how some of you pros get your
color into your engraving, and would also like to ask info on
backround removal of stainless steel revolvers, I am using a
gravermax and was wondering if the grs rotary tool would be a
good backround removal tool, thanx all and a special thank you to
Eugene Koeving and Ron Nott, these guys are super and have been
very willing to help me and i appreciate it. hi all I am looking for a second hand GRS graver for sale
if you have one or know off anyone let me now please.don't need a
compresser as already got one Ian, the crocker engravers are not that exact, so you have
to set up your own references. To do this set a square graver in
there so that is exactly flat , chekc this by make small drags
across the stone, and adjusting until it is exactly dragging the
same all the way across. --- that becomes one of your zero marks,
make a mark on one of the crocker ticks. then turn it over 90
degrees, do the same thing on this flat of the square, then mark
that as 90, and go overgain to the next flat and mark that as
zero again. Hope this gets you going--- scott hi all I have just got a crocker graver sharpener and I am
having difficulty in using it,I can understand the setting off
the side angle but when it comes to setting the heel angle at say
52 degrees I can understand as i can't see a reference point to
say where you go from there to set the angle if anyone has got
any pics to highlight this it would be a great help to me as pics
are sopmtinmes easyier to understand but words are sometime as
good, For electroless nickel plating, try Craftguard out of Iowa.
They have done very nice bluing and plating for me at very
reasonable prices. Their number is: 319-232-2959. Can anyone recommend a good electroless nickel plating
company? The one gun that I had plated was sent to a guy near
Uvalde, TX and he did a super job on it. His company was called
Nitex Guns, but I have heard that he went out of business about a
year ago. If you want a powered graver that can work with your own
air compressor, try the Lindsay Air Graver.
http://www.lindsayengraving.com/ This little tool is the best out
there. It can be adjusted to a all speed ranges and will even run
by just blowing into the air line, you can't cut that way though.
For someone that wants to, you can even use a tire pump with an
air tank to engrave if you want to be portable. No spings to
break and all stainless, the only thing is, it is not cheap. But
you get what you pay for, high quality. I like mine so much I am
getting a second one, and check out his new handle for the
AirGraver that is coming out soon, no more foot pedels. I don't
work for him, I'm just a happy customer. Good Luck, Tim hi all Is there anyone in here within 2 hrs drive off me
that is willing for me to come down theres and get a few
tips,there must be someone out there with a good heart Ian, it doesn't work that way. The gravermeister is a
self-contained unit comprising an electric motor that spins a
rotary air pump and a rotary valve that alternates between the
pressure side and vacuum side to operate the piston in the
handpiece. At least that is how it looks to me. Just hooking to
an air supply would not work. I have been using the same
gravermeister since late 1974 so one can expect to get one's
money's worth! The gravermax is more versatile in strokes per
minute and such but I have found the 'meister to fill all my
needs over the years. SW hi all I have been looking at the Ngraver site at the price
off the gravermeister at aronud $1000,is there anyone out there
who has had there own air surply and just bought the hand piece
and the foot control ,if so did you have any issues getting it
going or was it straight forward.plus if you only buy these items
what is the power like?is it variable I realize this is short notice, but ... I'm looking for an
engraver that might be able to take on a job in the next week. My
brother is getting married a week from today (he didn't give me
much notice), and though I have a gift I'm giving him the night
before, I'd like to have a beautiful plaque/nameplate created. If
there is anyone interested and available I'd really appreciate
talking with you. Ian, I would recommend getting the vari-pact feature if you
can afford it. You can use other gravers, but theirs are very
good. They are great people to deal with. I have bought a lot of
stuff from them over the years. Tom I am thinking off getting a ngraver,I am a beginer.are they
anygood or do they give poor result also do they over heat with
them being electric or is this a good place to start .also do you
have to buy the gravers off them or can you use any without
adapting Para, if the engraver is working in the gunsmith's shop
then he doesn't need an FFL in addition to the 'smith's. However,
if he then takes the gun to his own shop that constitutes another
transfer and an FFL is needed by the engraver and the transfer
logged into his record book as well as logged out by the
gunsmith. SW OK, I see, Sam. Thx for clearing that up. This is what you
are hearing from your batf representative? If it's already rec'd
and disassembled by a gunsmith, would the engraver have to be
licensed as well? TIA....... PS To truly compensate for the curve, you have to do the
layout on a curve in the opposite direction. In other words, if
when you make a transfer the text "bends" into a slight
"smiley" face, you have to do the layout in a
slight"frown" for it to end up straight across the
piece. This takes some "feel" and experience, as i have
no way of figuring out a mathematical formula to compensate for
this. I am hoping, in your case, that the small area will not
allow much distorion to show. Tom Guy, do you have a way of printing out text in reverse? You
can layout the text on a word processor, and print it in reverse
on a laser printer. Then tape it face down to the piece, and use
a paper towel to put acetone onto the back of the paper. This
will print the toner onto the item. Sometimes, a coating of damar
varnish will work to make the transer clearer. If you have an
inkjet printer, take your reverse copy to a place where you can
get copies made. The ink will not transfer itself, hence the need
to make the copy on a regular copier. If you can't print in
reverse, print the text onto acetate, then tkae to the copier
place and put the acetate on the copier in reverse, to make your
reverse copies. It will take some practice to get the right
amount of acetone to make a good transfer, but when you get the
hang of it, this will help a lot with this type of layout
problem. If you have corel draw, it is even easier to manipulate
text. If you don't have it, go on e-bay and try to find an older
version. I am still using version 9 just fine. Check out
masterengraver.com too. Sam Alfano has a very helpful CD
available on doing lettering layout on corel draw. best of
success, Tom Need Help; Having a very difficult time laying out the
letters. I am engraving three lines,in script, on four small
lockets with engravable areas of 3/8" x 1/2" that have
curved survaces (in both directions). Any suggestions Para- What you say is OK in regards to all parts except the
frame of a firearm. This is the item that requires a visible
serial number and to receive said item from the owner via
mail/parcel service or to keep said item on your premises from
one business day to the next requires an FFL on your part. About the gunsmith/bluing issue... Firearms dealers
licenses and firearms issues fall under the authority of the IRS
Code, Title 26 USC and it concerns the transfer of firearms from
one person to another,the taxes involved, and the registration
issues, not the matter of the gunsmith or engraving work being
done. To receive or transfer firearms to another an FFL is
required, if one does enough of these transfers yearly to be
considered a 'dealer'. And while only a receiver of a firearms IS
considered to be a firearm under the code, by having the firearm
received and disassembled by a gunsmith with an ffl first, a
license would not be required for the engraver of a firearm or if
the owner of the firearm were to provide the firearm to you for
engraving disassembled or only the parts requiring engraving,
this changes the dynamics of it all due to the fact that this
would render the firearm in an unserviceable condition and not
subject to the transfer code. Unservicable condition is defined
in the code as a firearm that cannot be readily made to shoot a
projectile. This would be similar to how you can buy parts for
firearms and ship or mail them openly from state to state without
restriction but not a completed firearm. This information can be
found at Title 26, Subtitle E, Chapter 53, Subchapter B, Part 1,
Section 5845 United States Code or you could check with an
attorney about it. If anyone wanting to get started engraving and needs a
reasonal priced sharpening graver holder, then check this out. I
have made a tool that I will sell for $50 that will have all of
the angles as well as allow for the slight radius on the bottom
cutting edge if needed. You can make your own tool if you have a
small lathe from my sketches. The EZE-LAP diamond sold at Walmart
for under $6 will cut any steel that you might use for the
gravers. A couple of well known name engravers have said that the
tool is very interesting. It will repeat the same angles needed
and will be quick to use. This will allow for a person to get
started into engraving without spending hundreds of dollars. I
have a rotating head holder design that can be made for about $25
and it will use a drill press vise for holding the work. The
beginner can have the basic tools for under $100 to see if they
will able to learn this trade. You will need a couple of books.
James Meeks book on Engraving is a good start. Contact me and I
will send some pictures. Retired Gunsmith minigun17@yahoo.com I am trying to reverse engrave on plastic (lucite,
bakelite) using a hand-held dremel. Fastest speed on mine is
10,000 rpm. I'm having a hard time maintaining control. Looks
rather sloppy and hard to get the contours smooth or level and
even. The tip tends to slip alot, thus scratching areas I don't
intend to. I'm sure lots of practice will help but I thought
there might be a better tool to use. Would a faster dremel model
help or is there something better to use. I am completely new to
this, so I would appreciate any help in "layman's
terms" and also information on where to purchase. Thanks
very much. Candy DC, The knives I buy don't require any prep at all other
than whipping the oil off before putting on a layout fluid. I use
a mixture of 50% white shellac, 50% alcohol and add calcium
carbenate until its has enough white. I suppose that the handle
stainless is somewhere in the 300 range of hardness. It's harder
than the fender washers but not as hard as most gun metal. I
tried the little Buck stainless knives but they were probably 440
stainless just like the blades on both knives. Very hard to cut.
I engraved a North American Arms mini revolver and these knives
are about the same. I orginally got one to practice for that gun.
I now buy them about half dozen at a time. Hope this was of some
help. Fred Fred, Those stainless knives you are talking about
engraving practice / gifts, do you have to do anything special to
them to do the engraving? Temper un temper etc. Excuse my
ignorance about the mettalurgy. Thanks, D.C. Lance Hello All I am a new Engraver and have just purchased a
Used Stereozoom Microscope from E-bay. It is a blessing. I can
look through it for hours without a headache or eyestrain and I
can see even the most minute detail that needs attention. Believe
me if you can get it to look good at10 power it will look
fantastic with your naked eye. Doing background work is far
easier as you can see exact spacing because it looks like a foot
instead of a few thousands. You can also see the exact depth you
are getting and know just how hard to hit your tool with your
hammer. I don't have air tools yet. For those of you who are not
using a Stereo Zoom Microscope because you think you can't afford
one, Mine cost me less than $200 without a BooM stand but I built
my own for $50. I have an Olympus SN 40 which is the one all of
the new scopes are copied after. Notice when you look for one on
EBAY some of them will say like an SN40 Olympus. These are more
expensive than a used Olympus and not nearly as good. If you
cannot find a Boom Stand for your Scope, contact me and I'll make
you one however you want it. Go to Ebay and look under Stereo
Zoom Microscope for all brands or Olympus Microscope for Olympus
Only. You will want to get one that has at least 100mm plus of
working space. 200mm is best. You can find lens that will give
you that much used or new. The used ones go for around $40 and a
new one is $200 so shop around and look every few days till you
find the one you want. Don't be afraid to spend $300 for a good
used Olympus or Nikon or Leica or Zeiss or Bausch and Lomb or
American Optics although you cannot get parts for American Optics
should it break. If you have any questions you may E-mail me at
Longline@Lightbound.com You won't regret getting a good scope.
Charlie Sorry for all the spam the last few days. A spam filter,
password won't help as these a##holes have a script to seek out
my script. Changing the format may be in future but I'll just try
to keep ahead of it for now. Rex, Have you considered a good spam filter?? most are low
cost and seem effective. Just a thought. Hello Ian, You may want to visit this site too. A lot of
info over the years grouped by topic.
http://groups.msn.com/HandEngravers/messageboard.msnw Take care,
Tom hi all following some good info via Brian Marshall
regarding progression using a air graver via hand gravers,saying
that you can learn far more quickly with the air type gravers I
am looking for someone in the uk with a good heart who is willing
to invite me to his work shop ect to show me and convince me in
getting one.I will travel anywhere in the uk for this chance.I
await with crossed fingers for a reply.I have emailed quite a few
people in the USA in the past for advise and have found the
americans to be so helpfull,and there must be people in the uk
with the same quality,s Thanks Dave. I did find a set, not too expensive.Cost me
less than the strawberry did! Tom Tom I have a Nikon Microscope and other Mfg eyepieces so I
think you are right. Also XXX was selling extended eye relief
ones that I used in school and they worked well. Use this site to explore San Diego County communities and
find the neighborhood that fits your likes and priorities. This
site has extensive community information hey guys, need some help. My 3 year old son(the one who put
a small strawberry up his nose last year=$300!) pulled out one of
my eyepieces from my scope and dropped it on my concrete shop
floor. It is an older bausch and Lomb scope, ebay special. Are
these eyepieces pretty standard in dimensions, or am i looking at
a new scope? I can still use it, but the ragged line in the field
of view is disconcerting! Thanks, Tom Howdy Folks! My name is Fred Marrinan and I am novice
engraver. Been at it about three years. I have a couple of things
to share with my fellows. I spent a couple of good hours going
through all the posts on this site. My intention was to get up to
speed on the kind of information being shared and see if there
was anything I could share. I noted a post or two about practice
plates. I go to my local Home Depot and get 2 inch fender
washers. They are cheap, don't require much prep and I can try a
scroll or leaf or shading technique by simply popping one in the
block, try whatever and go on. Another usful practice "plate" I have found was in my local Ace hardware and
at my NAPA dealer. Both of them sell stainless steel pocket
knives (probably from China)with 2 440 stainless blades (one is a
straight razor)for $6.95. I have found them to be fun to do
layouts on, engrave and people really like them as a gift. Have
used them as thank yous to my vet, Dr. others. they are relly
appricated and I don't just keep filling up scrape buckets.
Another tip I would share iw termal vacum setting sheet plastic.
It is thin sheet used in a vacum molding machine. It's pretty
cheap and real easy to use. Simply heat it (blow dryer, oven at
150 etc)place it overan engraved surface and burnish. you will
force it into each cut and it will reproduce a "stamp"
or "templete" One of the major themes I picked up today
was people who want to try this art feel a need to get some tools
and start cutting. I hold a Doctorate in Vocational Education and
have a bit of erogant advise for them before they start chipping
away-read-read-read, study others-study others and study others.
Carry a pocket magnifyer and study every piece you come across,
even replica or stamped "engraving". Study layout,
learn the rules, learn when and how to drake them. Draw, Draw,
Draw. When the beginer can't go into a store without looking
through all the magazines for every and anything engraved item.
Only when you have to stop and look at every antique store to see
what might be engraved should they be concerned with high dollar
tools. Yes, I do do all these things.I can recognize many of the
members of this organization's work because I have studied and
read and drawn and shopped. A beginner can pick you a few hand
tools, a stone and a bag of 6-Ougnt bird shot and give it a try
for very few dollars. but always remember to study. at some point
in time those with the desire and the determination will find
that they need tools more than a vacation. just a couple of
thoughts and a bit of novice advise thanks Tom,I can see that I'am going to need alot of help
learning to ingrave,does anyone know if someone in the tampa bay
area that teaches ingraving? thanks folks. dutch. Thanks Tom, I can see that I'am going to need alot of help
learning to ingrave,does anyone know if someone in the tampa bay
area teaches ingravings? thanks folks. dutch. Dutch, If you are a member, you will be getting the
engraver when the next issue comes out. welcome aboard! Tom Hi folks,this is a great place to visit, I'am a new member
of FEGA and really new to ingravering, I'ev been a tool and die
maker for the last 45 years now retired wih time to learn this
art form will someone please tell me where to sign up for the
news letter INGRAVER. thanks folks. Dutch. I agree with Jerry and Marty about a password. We really
don't need this unnecessary spam on our website. This site is for
the engravers for an exchange of ideas to educate ourselves and
help up and coming gun engravers. Sincerely, I find it hard to believe that these same inconsiderate
spammers actually think we would respect there product or
extraterestial language and points of view to use their product.
I suppose it's their way of resolving their short comings to
resort to this invasion of sorts. Perhaps a password system is in
order even though by having a totally open forum lets anyone with
a legitimate question and need access us with ease. These
intruders are a big problems and it does take Rex a lot of time
to remove the postings. lately the forum is being abused by a lot of inconsiderate
advertisers. I resent this extremely as I know most of the other
members do also. Maybe we will have to resort to having a
password entry system to prevent this kind of abuse. jerry
huddleston hi all has anyone out there got time time chat via e-mail
to me as I am trying to learn to hand engrave with some gravers I
purchased from the usa,I use a 8oz hammer,and a cheap rotary
vise,I can't justify paying a lot off money for a air graver till
I am compitent enought with the hand gravers.I am able to do a
straight line and just finding my way on the curves,what I am
finding is that where the metal has beed removed it is rought off
the impact from the hammer,is this down to the sharpness or just
a case off practace.If there is anyone on here from the uk I
would be greatfull if you could contact me and maybe I could
visit you for a lesson or two .I have not got any problems with
paying(not to much please)but need to be shown the basics. Is
there any good videos out the that show you the basics using
handgravers or has anyone got a copy I could buy off them. hope
there is someone out there who has got sometime for me regards
ian Microscope for sale. I have a complete Meiji EMZ-5 scope
body. A boom stand will need to be purchased or made. The scope
is 3.5X 22.5 power. It has a .5 objective lens and 10x lenses.
Working distance is 6 inches. The scope is in very good working
condition. The optics are scratch free and bright. This scope is
the same model and specifications that GRS sells for $1248, also
without a stand. I will sell the scope for $625 shipped.If you
have any questions or would like to see a picture please e-mail
me. Ngraver 100 engraving outfit for sale $300.00. Please
contact me by email if interested. Thanks Still looking for contact information for Richard Roy (CSMC
engraver) Just need some additional pictures ( dorsal/ and
trigger guard tang) of one of his guns. If any of you folks know
him , I request he contact me at jpatt1@uis.edu. thanks! best
regards, JBP some good ideas, another consideration is to find a good
gunsmith in your area and run everything through him. There are
liability issues in doing gunsmithing work, and a good gunsmith ,
possibly an ACGG member will minimize the chance of mechanical
problems. I have also been told by my friend David Trevallion
that legal liability is on the last professional to handle the
firearm. I am not a lawyer, so I cannot vouch for this. The NRA
has an insurance referral for people in the business, and you
should be insured. Barry WANTED: I have a pair of horse spurs that I want inlayed
with silver initials and I haven't been able to find anyone that
will do it. I was directed to this site by a silversmith in Minn.
I hope that someone is willing to discuss the project with me.
They are meant to be a special gift. Thank You. To Yves: I agree with Tom. If you know you need the gun
disassembled and the barrel removed....tell the customer, and
definitely find out who pays for re-bluing if it gets a couple of
good scratches in it. I charge for
disassembly-reassembly,polishing and rebluing. (Usually included
in the price quote) Also, only a few select guns leave here "In the White" or unfinished in any form. I've been
educated where the customer said he was going to have it reblued
himself or by one of his "buddies" that does rebluing
"on the side". The only trouble was the customer was
busy showing it off to his friends and then "buddy"
didn't get around to bluing it for a month or so after that. By
then, it had developed some serious oxidation, and I got blamed
for not having enough rust preventative on it. I went around and
around with the customer and didn't have to pay for his
negligence, but I had to deal with it none the less. Very few
guns leave here "in the white" or with unfinished steel
exposed. here are some concerns to think about. What if there is a
slip, who pays for the rebluing then? Can you do the quality of
work you want to with the barrels installed? Is this the kind of
work you will like other people to see? It has been tough, but I
am learning that I would rather not do a job in such a way as I
would not personally be pleased with the results, even if the
customer would be.Hope this helps you make a decision that works
for you. Tom Currently my engraving is on firearms that have been
stripped and polished, barrel off of receiver, etc. and will
refinish when the engraving is complete. The question? I have a
new client wishing to have engraving on several firearms, rifles
and pistols, that are factory new in box. He currently has them
engraved right over the bluing without the barrels being removed.
I know this is not the norm and am asking how you would approach
the subjet. Should I remove the barrels or not? Should I remove
the bluing or not? Thanks ON MAKING CASTINGS.We all know about those tiny air bubbles
ruining our castings. In my quest for a solution, I came across
this website: www.alumilite.com.(Go figure) There, they make
reference to placing the resin filled mold into a pressure tank,
running the PSI to 30-40 and letting the resin cure under
pressure. Alumilite claims the pressure "crushes" the
air bubbles to a size that makes them microscopic resulting in a
blemish free casting. They recommend doing this proceedure to the
mold making process as well. I have one of those pressure paint
tanks I bought a Sears many years ago, and will give this a try.
Alumilite also details a "vacuum" process, where the
casting resin is placed in an absolute vacuum and literally
causes the air bubbles to rupture, leaving only resin.........no
air bubbles. I'm sure this is old news to some, but I just
learned about it. I hope it works. "FOR SALE" NGRAVER MAGNAGRAVER GUN ENGRAVING TOOL
(complete outfit, dual output motor with 3 to 1 gear reduction,
flex shaft, Ngraver 100 handpiece) + Jeremiah Watt Cowboy
engraving, Cowboy silversmithing, & Cowboy Bit & Spurs
making making video set and a Vigor western rodeo trophy buckle
making tape. A great package deal currently for sale on Ebay
$400.00 buy it now price. Item # 4903211319. or contact by email
for questions more info. Thank you MP, the difference in the Ngraver and the pneumatic hammer
is that with the Ngraver you vary the strokes per minute while
the power of the stroke remains basicly the same and with the
pneumatic hammer you vary the power of the stroke while the
strokes per minute remains constant. The latter seems to allow
for finer or lighter cutting. I am learning how to engrave script. I have so many thngs
to think about, hand position, slanting of letters, spacing,
depth, not to slip and cut myself eek!... My question is of the
most fundimental types, how do I lay out the letters and more
importantly, pratice the letters on the copper plating if I do
not yet know which way the strokes on the letters go without
constantly looking at the book. How does one memorize which way
the strokes go? Should I pratice out the letters first by drawing
the strokes onto a piece of paper until I have that down? Please
ANY advise on this subject or on anything else as a "newbe'
would need to have answered. Thank you, Laurie p.s. I have been a
goldsmith for the last 13 years and this is hard stuff to learn! MP, the Foredom tool despite it's name is way underppwered.
the Ngraver is the way to go in this arena. the only thing really
critical to using an Ngraver is placeing the motor above and
behind you so that you have minimal amount of movement of the
flex shaft itself. if you get the motor placed right, so that you
are not fighting the shaft, you can do some great work with it.
The Vari-pact is great for doing slow detailed work, I see some
fantastic work done with it, ---- The GRS sytstem 3 is another
opttion, but seems everybody I know that bought one ended up
going to Gravermax aftterwards... As Tom says, its the hands not
the tools, any of the big 3 will do great work, the lindsay, the
Gravermax, or the Ngraver in talented hands will do fine MP, I don't know what the differences between the Ngraver
and the foredom would be. I got to try a NGraver once, and
believe I could do good work with it. I wouldn't buy a foredom
tool if you have the NGraver already. As far as the air tools go,
I think you will get a wider range of power, but I really don't
know what the Ngraver is fully capable of. I don't think you will
suffer at the top end with the NGraver, but maybe it will not cut
as super light as some of the air tools can. I don'tknow how much
experience you have so far, but I would recommend that you work
with what you have for a while. Although tools can make a
difference, engraving is still engraving. If you do head towards
air tools, i would recommend, in addition to the GRS products,
that you check out http://www.lindsayengraving.com. best of
success, Tom "QUESTION" I am a beginner who would like to ask
a question for myself and those of us who are inexperienced and
still trying to decide which type engraving machines would best
fit our needs and budget ect. I currently have a used NGRAVER
MagnaGraver 100 handpiece attached to a Dumore dual reduction
gear motor with a flexade flexible shaft. My question is: How
does an Ngraver engraving outfit compare to the Fordome
powergraver? Which is better and why? Also what are the major
differences between actual performance of flexible shaft setups
and air powered like Gravermax, Gravermeister or the less
expensive GRS system 3 for instance. Is there a huge difference
in the quality of work a beginner would be able to acheive based
on equipment? Thanks for any replies. Tom and Brian Thanks for the replies. When I read about
this new device on Steve Lindsay's website I assumed that it was
an entirely new tool, not something that could be added on to an
existing air graver. This is great news. Brian - I have emailed
him on occasion and found him extremely responsive to questions
on using the airgraver and very prompt in his replies. I have
also found the GRS folks equally helpful and prompt as well. It
has made very easy to transition from hand powered to
power-assist engraving. Thanks for the information. Allan, It is for the current AirGravers with the rubber,
burl or ivory handles and the past ones with the "turn and
click-on" burl or ivory handles. There might be a few of the
current ones with the rubber handle, to which slots will need to
be added. I think that Steve intends to include the conversion
(for those few without the slots) in the price of the new palm
controllers when they are released this fall? You can look and
see what you've got by simply pulling off the rubber handle. Look
for "L' shaped locking slots - if you have 'em - you are
ready to convert. For those with the burl or ivory handles the
slots are already there. The original ACG introduced in 2000 may
not work because there might not be enough room/thickness to add
the slots... Better ask Steve directly about these. His email is
Steve@LindsayEngraving.com He generally answers his email
enquiries within hours. From my experience playing with the
prototype, Im sure you'll be happy... The only problem I
encountered was getting over the habit of feeling for the foot
controller to make it go. But then I find myself doing that
whenever I pick up a burin to put in a few push cut details.
Embarrasing when you do it in front of students, but harmless!
Brian It is for his existing tools.I don't know if it will fit
the older tools or not. I will try to find out. Tom Brian..thanks for the post about the Linday palm
controller. Is the new device a retro-fit onto his standard air
gravers or is this a completely new tool? And does it require
some getting used to? Allan Allan On the subject of power assisted engraving tools to aid
physically limited engravers: Though I do not yet consider myself
to be “handicapped” – after 14 surgeries and 27
fractured bones - I do have a few more limitations than the
average person:)…. I am right handed, and must use several
devices I’ve made in order to be able to continue engraving.
I’ve lost my right trapezius muscle and the ability to raise
my arm/elbow out to the side. One device consists of a hook in
the ceiling over my bench to which is attached a spring, an
adjustable section of rope, and a padded sling. This supports my
arm and allows a range of motion similar to what I used to have.
One of many features incorporated into the Lindsay AirGraver is
the stroke adjustment collar right on the handpiece. This is
extremely convenient for me, as it is difficult as well as
painful for me to reach over the bench to a control box. I have
personally tried out the prototype of the new “palm
controller” that Steve has developed and patented. He has
taken the ordinary foot control, miniaturized it, and stuffed it
all into a normal sized “handle” that will attach to
his standard tools. For me, with both ankles having been crushed
many years ago – this will be a further relief, and I look
forward to using it in place of the awkward (to me) foot pedals
I’ve used over the past 27 years… Brian P. Marshall
Stockton Jewelry Arts School 2207 Lucile Ave. Stockton, CA 95209
209-477-0550 jewelryartschool@aol.com
instructor@jewelryartschool.com Chris,_____ I have engraved several brass instruments for a
custom maker. Its really not practical to engrave something like
this post assembly for a number of reasons... Dissambly is a pain
if not impossible in some cases, special jigs are required to
hold it, and normally the engraved ones are made of slighty
thicker brass at least on the bell end, to allow for the
engraving with out serioulsy changing the tone of the instrument
, since the various depth changes caused by engraving in the thin
sheet metal can greatly distort the sound waves coming off
them----- there is a reason why some things are so expensive ***Wanted*** I have a Silver plate Alto Saxophone (Selmer
Paris). I bought it without the engraving, and I was wondering if
it was possible, and if so, the rough price, to get my saxophone
custom engraved on the bell, or perhaps something more detailed
as well. I don't really know what is possible to do, so my
request is a rather broad, open one. Thank you for your time Cj We have not held our show at the Sands Regency for a number
of years now. It will be held and the Silver Legacy hotel where
we have been able to put on a very nice exhibit since we left the
Sands. The dates are Jan. 28-30, 2005 and you can click on the
annual show button on the fega homepage for this information. What is the date of the next convention in Reno, Nevada and
where will it be held if not the Sands Regency? Jim, "Engraver" is fega's newslwtter, Join the
guild and it will be sent to you-Barry Howdy: I saw a reference to a publication called "Engraver" in one of the postings and know nothing
about it. Does anybody know their email address and/or their
WEB-site 'URL'? I'd like to get in contact with them and
check-out the "Engraver". Please email me directly (
jim321@webtv.net ), thanks, Jim. I see many postings here asking questions on basic
engraving how to. I will be teaching a basic engraving class at
glendo in emporia kansas june 14-18 and we still have a couple
openings for students. If you have time, sign up and bring your
problems and questions. I have found there is no better way to
learn than engraving in a room full of other engravers. I just
returned from Brescia and London where I spent some time with the
Fracassis, Ken and Marcus Hunt. and others too numerous to list
here. The best thing an engraver can do to learn in the USA is to
join the guild, attend the guild related events and spend as much
time at the bench and with other engravers as possible. I am seeking info. on a set of Ezra F. Bowman & Co.
engraving tools. My father gave me a boxed set of six tools many
years ago. They are in excellent condition and appear to never
have been used. There is a pat. date of Mar. 12,1888. Any
information would be greatly appreciated. The tools are finely
crafted and engraved. The case is slightly weathered. thanks FRANKBUCK I just had the same question to ask a few months
ago...which engraver to buy? Well I spent all that time
researching each of the options as carefully as possible because
$1500-2000 is not just chump change. Anyways I finally made a
decision and I'm absolutely sure that it is the right one for me
and I'm just as sure that it would be the right one for
you...I'll explain more in a bit. Pretty much all the engravers
(Gravermeister/Max) are excellant buys but for the same money do
yourself a huge favor and invest in a Lindsay Airgraver. Go to
www.lindsayengraving.com I'm in a wheelchair/handicapped so I had
to borrow the money (approx. $4000) to buy all the engraving
equip that I needed to do it right. I have an old magna-graver so
I bought the GRS Power Hone, some graver blanks ect. from GRS
just to make sure that I could actually engrave before buying the
gavermax. Anyways after the Lindsay discovery they would not loan
me the money without proof of Lindsay handpiece quality and
legitamacy so with no other alternative I had them call GRS (the
same people that wanted to sell me Gravermax) for a recomendation
and wa-la I've been useing my Lindsay Classic handpiece for about
2 weeks now and it's great. Steve's pretty much always available
by phone or e-mail to answer all my stupid questions and his
online school is excellant. FACT: I now know that not all "famous, Artsy-fartsy" people are jackasses. heheh Good
luck man!! GDee Hi, I live in Orange County, CA and have purchased a
stainless steel cuff/bracelet in which I would like to engrave a
message. Recommendations?????? After reading the latest copy of the "Engraver",
I noticed Steve Lindsay's advertisment on the inside page of the
back cover, the words "No more foot pedals". The first
thing that came to mind was for the use of handicapped engravers.
The hand held air tool would be a great breakthrough tool for
anyone who is bound to a wheelchair. Over the years there have
been many helpful tools, but none with the handicapped in mind. NEED HELP! I WILL BE TEACHING A BASIC ENGRAVING CLASS AT
TRINIDAD STATE JUNIOR COLLEGE JUNE 14-25. THE SCHOOL DOSE NOT
HAVE ANY GRAVER MAX MACHINES FOR THE STUDENTS TO USE. IF YOU HAVE
A GRAVER MAX THAT YOU WOULD BE WILLING TO LOAN, RENT OUT OR SELL
PLEASE GIVE ME A CALL. ED DELORGE, 985-223-0206, E-MAIL
delorge@triparish.net Jerry, I looked into your vise a little more. what i found
out was IDEAL may have been a company that made a vise that was
keyless and they had the patent on the keyless vise.and A.D.
MUEHLMATT bought then out around 1903 or 1904 to get the keyless
patent. MUELMATT then sold off IDEALS old inventory of keyless
vises. but before they sold them they stamped there name on the
vises. the #244 may have been a IDEAL model number. i'm sorry but
i don't really know what the value is. Gravermates are a greater starter or use for life. I have
one that was used when I bought 15 or so years ago. I still use
the big handle. I can use it for everything that I use for hammer
and chisel or the burin. I do every thing from deep and
sculptured to bulino with the gravermate. Sometimes it is still
easier and quicker to use my hand tools though. I have used the
gravermate to engrave scroll on the head of a pin. I think what
you buy has more to do with your budget and where you want to go
with your engraving. My advice is to buy the best you can afford.
This is important when it becomes your source of income. Would the gravermate be a good starter tool or should a
person buy a gravermax or miester to start with for engraving. Fred Harrington??? I've been trying to get a hold of him
for an engraving job. Anybody have a current phone number? Thanks Curt, I was wondering if you have any information as far as
value of #244? If so I would appreciate your help. thanks! Engraving gun parts: It would be nice to get just the gun
parts to engrave,but I never really have been able to get anybody
to send me just the parts. Recently, a customer with a
contemporary muzzle loader gave me a patchbox cover a trigger
guard, and the lock plate and hammer. I engraved his initials on
the trigger guard, I also engraved the lock plate and hammer with
scrolls, and the patch box with an eagle. When the job was
finished we planned to meet at a local gun show and put the gun
parts back on the gun. To my amazement everything went well until
we got to the patch box cover. Turns out I engraved the eagle
upside down. This is one gun I would of liked to have gotten all
in one piece. The customer showed his buddy at the time and his
buddy said, "Well George you can always say that JJ can
engrave standing on his head". The customer ordered a new
patch box and,I redid it for him, lesson learned....JJ Hey Berry, Been trying to get a hold of you! No wonder I
can't. Glad to hear your having a great time. When you get back
in the states give me a call or email. We have a lot of catching
up to do. Take care Darren Hi Guys, (and girls)this is Barry, I have been traveling
about in south africa, (hunting and photography) egypt, greece
and italy(researching ornament) and I have been in brescia the
last few days. Met lots of excellent engravers here, this place
is like a disneyland for gunnies Curt, Thank you for responding. The item I have weighs
approximately 10 lbs. The shape of it is like a ball cut in half
and it sits on a plate with a shaft going into the ball. The
shaft looks like it has bearings in it. I hope this description
is helpful. Again, thanks for you help. hey Guys, I am in need of some help on pricing some gold
inlaid lettering. I have a customer who wants 28 small roman
style letters inlaid with gold on the rib of a small damascus
.410 double. How much would some of you charge per letter for
that type of work? Also, any worries about the gunsmith etching
the barrels after the gold is inlaid? Thanks for any advice! Tom I have worked in Tiffany & Co. for 25 years as a master
engraver. I do everything. I am 40 years experienced. I retired
for disability. I am 56 years old. I like working at home for 4
to 5 hours a day. If you find something for me please give me a
call or send me an email. I appriciate it Thank you Luis. I too would prefer if the client or gunmaker just
send me the parts I need to engrave. These other professionals I
do and I would rather just concentrate on the engraving. i think
the biggest factor in this whole thing is.I'm also afraid of
losing half their gun in the process. Luis, I do a lot of restoration work for a gunsmith not too
far away from me. More often than not, i will have him help we
with those king of things, unless i am very familiar with the
gun. I have gotten accustomed to his rates, so i usually try to
figure that into the estimate. If I am not sure, i will ask him
first, or just build a little extra in for suprises.probably a
good idea all the time! I will also ask the customer to find a
gunsmith at their end, if possible, so I just have to deal with
the parts necessary for engraving. be careful though, since you
may need some parts even if you won't be engraving them. For
example, if you are engravg a 1911 grip frame, you will still
need the grips to establish the boundaries of your engrving
pattern. Hope this helps some. Tom Gun Disassembly--Been thinking about this for a bit and I'm
curious to know whether or not you disassemble a client's firearm
for engraving or send it out to a gunsmith. If you do the work
yourself how do you charge for it? While I'm a bit handy myself
there are some firearms I'm really not too excited about trying
to disassemble. Getting them apart might not be a big problem but
reassembly sure would be. Any advice???? Jerry, its a jewelers vise. i think the Ideal maybe the
name of that vise.i have one and the name on it is the Special it
is a very small vice maybe its only about 2or 3 lb. i think they
were made in the 1800 or early 1900 not sure. do you have the
whole vise or just the ball? i think they had names for the
differant size vise . well thats all i know.. Curt If anyone has any information about an item that I have, I
would really appreciate their help. The information on the item
is The IDEAL* Keyless, A.D. MUEHLMATT MAKER, Cincinnati, O.,
#244. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thank You. I've been told that in general terms 400 series stainless
is engravable and the 300 series is not. It sounds like you know
about the 300 series. The Guild will have a booth at the Vintagers National
Side-by -Side Festival May 14-15-16, Quail Ridge Sportsman Culb
in Sunman Indiana. We are still looking for help maning and
displaying at the Guild booth. for info call Bob Strosin at
714-325-7550 Bob ITEM WANTED. I noticed in my previous ad, I put in the
words "Air Compression". It should be Sil-Air Air
Compressor 1/2 hp. www.krparkes.com ITEM WANTED. I am a hand engraver in Vancouver, BC Canada.
I am trying to locate a new Sil-Air Air Compression 1/2 hp, as
the one I have now is too loud. I would like to find a Canadian
supplier to avoid duties, etc. at the border. I have a website at
www.krparkes.com which shows a sample of my craftsmanship. Of all the diffrent types of stainless steels which is the
best (easist) for engravering? I've tried 316L and 304 but they
were not easy, tough on the engraver tool! Thanks Hi, Im practising inlays (copper on "L" shaped
iron bar by now), and I want to know about sharpening chisels or
gravers to make the initial square groove. Any tip will be
wellcome! Any picture of the shape of these chisels will be
great!! thank you all. Alberto. aalv2003@adinet.com.uy Thanks for the response, Sam. I suspected that engraving
through plating was not a good idea. Just thought I would check
with the experts. Thanks. Scott, most stainless steel alloys are non-magnetic. The
dark backgrounds are likey ink or some other application. The
nickel plating won't blue but heat can discolor the plating.
Engraving thru plating isn't a good idea as you are likely to get
some chipping or flaking of the plating. Sam How can you tell if a piece is stainless steel or just
nickel plated? Can you engrave a piece that has plating or does
the plating have to be removed? I have seen the pieces that are
silver with black engraving. Is the black a filler or is it a
bluing that has been done after the job has been nickel plated? hey Wayne, welcome to the forum! This is a good forum, but
the activity varies. generally if people ask questions or start
discussions, things happen for a while, and then there will be a
lull. The order sheet I have for the tapes says members only .
maybe they will be offered to the public later. Hopefully,
someone who knows will chime in and clarify that. I hope you will
consider joing FEGA and participating here, as your position in
the industry would give you insights and experiences that many of
us do not have.I will try and start a topic that you would know a
lot about. What do you see as far as trends in handgun engraving?
certain styles of scroll work requested, certain types of guns
people most often ask to have engraved? Is bulino being requested
more on handguns, or less than before? Thanks! Tom Hello guys,im the fulltime master engraver at
SMITH&WESSON,why they give me that title i have no idea,but
anyways...i was just wondering if this forum is any good or
not?....also,could anyone tell me how to aquire the tapes on
bulino from chris decamillus seminar for fega? I would like to get started hand engraving certain
stainless parts. Is there anyone who would like to inform this
newbie of the best equipment and instructional manuals to get
starrted with ? Thanx! Hello all, being a realative newbie to the trade I must say
I thouroughly enjoyed reading through the forum. The knowledge
here shows,thanks to all who contribute.What a great learning
tool! the last post has me scratching my skull,all I can deduce
is romanic numerals?:O) does anyone here have any advice or
expirence inlaying niobium wire? Any tricks I am missing would be
a blessing. Thanks. HAND ENGRAVER EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITY: A.Jaffe a fine
gold,diamond and platinum bridal jewelry maunufacturer located in
New York City has a position available for an experienced hand
engraver. This is a full time position with benefits. Interested
individuals should contact me, Ken Karlin, at 212-843-7464 x-224 GRS sells several differnt style fancy nameplates, that are
made of thick brass, that they cut out themselves. Don't know who
the UK supplier for them is, but I guess you can scope it out
Good luck! Anyone heard of LARRY ROE or any of his work? He died in
1969. Primary work was firearms in the midwest and around
Washington DC. I have a collection of GRS equipment for sale. Initially,
it was thought to be sold until I found out that I was being set
up for a money scam. Beware, there are people using this board
for their money scams. They start off telling you that they are
living overseas temporarily and will have a client of theirs (or
distributor) send you a cashiers check for the equipment. They
may even tell you they may need to overpay for the item and for
you to refund the client the difference. I almost fell for it -
thank goodness for my bank's advice - it was timely. Anyway, my
equipment is back for sale. It has been babied and stored in a
smoke free environment - climate controlled. All in excellent
condition. GRS Gravermax - 20 hours of operation GRS Magna Block
- 20 hours of operation - with the normal attachments. GRS 901
Small handpiece - new - 1 hour of operation GRS standard large
handpiece - 20 hours over 20 quick change attachments and gravers
(flat/round gravers all preshaped)(18-10 liner used once) GRS
1200 grit wheel new - used twice GRS 600 grit wheel - 20 hours
GRS blank wheel used 1 time GRS ceramic lap wheel used 1 time GRS
Diamond spray - sprayed less than 5 times - full. GRS Power hone
- 20 hours GRS Sharpening Fixture - 20 hours Firm $1795 - I don't
want to break up the package. Buyer will need to figure in
additional shipping charges. Most of the items are half the price
of the retail from GRS. Great for a class room or extra backup
equip. or for someone not wanting to pay near $2800 My Ebay name
is net-sales check me out, I have 288 feedbacks all positive) you
can verify that my email is the same. Thanks for your interest. I am constructing a turntable for my microscope engraving.
I have 3 pieces of 12" dia by 1/4 thick steel diamond plate
that were sent by the steel vendor by mistake. Anyone interested,
please send me a mail. My table is mounted on 1" dia ball
bearing pillow blocks which are fastened to an angle iron frame.
The 12" dia plate is fastened to a 3" dia by 1"
thick CRS with a 1" hole for an 18" long piece of
1"CRS. I turn my table with my hand rather than with my
foot. The diamond plate can be used on the bottom for foot
turning or smooth side up for the engraving vise. This is a very
rigid setup and good for engraving at higher magnifications.
--Art To Jay in Sandusky, Ohio: Pick up the book "The Art of
Engraving" by James B. Meek. It's a pretty comprehensive
book that most of us own (and have worn out). Any other
questions, give a call. KEHUIJIE (SHENZHEN) ELECTRONIC SCALE LTD, an enterprise
leads the field of the electronic scale in China. We make and
sell Body Scale, Kitchen Scale, Pocket Scale and Balance. All
products have received ISO 9001 Quality Certificate and CE
Certificate. For more details, visit www.szkhj.com please. Am trying to find a copy of the GRS instructional video on
graver sharpening - can anyone help this isolated Kiwi at the far
end of the world please? Erin, try Boone Trading Co. in WA state. They might know
something about them. A google search should find them for you. PLEASE HELP!!! Have been handed old (1800's) ivory Japanese
(Osaka?) engraved beads. They are lined and the detail is
incredible. Trying to research with NO luck!!! Could use some
help if there is any out there. There are about 12 beads in all
and all are quite unique. Two are very distinguished. Has
engraving of two water birds and plants... the other looks like a
water dragon with a bird. Any help is much appreciated. i would like to know what to start out with when getting
into engraving,i dont have that much money but im wildlife artist
and i do portraits,how would i go about getting into this field i love this sit mugu man stay
cooooooooooooooolllllllllllllllll Gravermax for sale. 3 old style hand pcs,footpedal. Just
refurb'd by GRS please contact me at 214-750-7560. Hello to all squinty-eyed chip makers. I'm selling a
Graver-max(just gone over by GRS) w/ 3 old style hand pcs. Asking
1000.00. I'm in Dallas Tx area but will pack securely and ship to
you. please call 214) 750-7560. Looking for contact information for Richard Roy who does
engraving for Galazan -C.S.M.C. thanks! JBP ENGRAVERS WANTED! Notice to all FEGA members. There is
notice in the "members only" section of the site for
possible engraving work. Be sure to check it out. Sorry, that was acetone, not acetate. Sam Cronite sells the "chip out ground".
www.cronite.com is their web site. Hazardous shipping charges are
high! John, I dipped a very small brush into acetate for cleaning
between dips into the ground. This helped the drying syndrome a
lot. I let the ground dry overnight and then was able to
"rub off" with a toothpick where I got ground in an
unwanted area. I think you are supposed to be able to heat the
applied ground to harden it and then chip it off where you want.
Hope someone that knows the proper use will chime in. Sam Thanks Sam - I'll have to try your rust remover. What are
you (and others) using to apply whatever masking agent they're
using? Sometimes, at least with the nail polish, the polish
thickens up pretty quick and makes real fine details harder to
mask. The toothpick or even a split toothpick works the best for
me so far. Thanks again for your help. John Sam, who sells the chip-out ground? Thanks, Shawn John, I talked with Eric about how he did that greying and
frankly I don't plan to be that mean to myself...and doubt you
would care to either. The best way I have tried is to selectively
grey after bluing, whether rust blue or hot blue. Naval Jelly
works but I can never get a smooth grey. There always seems to be
some mottling of the grey that takes a large amount of elbow
grease with a pink pearl eraser to smooth out. The latest piece I
just finished had a lot of grey area. I protected the blue with
chip-out ground, tho other things such as the nail polish seem to
work well. Instead of using Naval Jelly I used OxiSolv which is a
rust remover that is sold by www.eastwood.com for the old car
restoration crowd (one of my downfall tendencies) and I was real
pleased with the way it worked. Just a few minutes keeping the
area moist with a q-tip and the blue vanished and only a few
moments with a pink pearl eraser to clean it up for a very smooth "coin" finish. The items were hot blued so the finish
is more of a coin finish than grey. If the parts had been rust
blued, the pitting action of the rust blue would likey have
caused a more grey look. OxiSolv is about $16.00 per quart,and is
non-flamable, non-toxic and non-caustic. Sam RE. the graying - I meant that I don't think I'm using the
best method - I'm sure there's better ways of doing it than how
I'm doing selective graying. I was just looking at the cover of the latest Engraver and
really admiring the job Eric Gold did on this rifle. I especially
like the selectively grayed look. I've done selective graying,
but I'm wondering if I'm using the most efficient method. I've
been doing the engraving, then bluing everything, then using
naval jelly to gray the complete piece - then I mask the
engraving with red nail polish using a toothpick or other fine
pointed tools, and then reblue. It works, but I don't know if I
could get the super fine, thin lines of scrollwork grayed like
Eric did. Any advice on a better way to do this? Thanks, John For Sale: GRS Magnablock $350+$25.00 shipping. Block is in
.like new condition.I have gone to a positioning vise. If
interested please e-mail me. Thanks, Robert For Sale: Complete ParaPack and ParaBlast sets. Used very
little. Cost over $5000.00. Make reasonable offer. All the
goodies. Engraving and Sand Blasting. Compressor, cases, bits,
blast cabinet, pressure pot, hand piece, turbine,
regulator/oiler, videos and more accessories. I have just acquired an Arnold Griebel engraved Model 32
Remington but can't remember what reference to Griebel I remember
recently reading in Double Gun Journal or similar publication.
Can someone email me with any info. I recently provided a
reference to an internet inquiry about Griebel's obituary by John
Amber, but I can't locate that either. Thank you for any Griebel
info. Bill Murphy wilmrph@comcast.net I want to thank Scott Pilkington for the good advice he
gave me last June on this forum. I asked about getting mirror
bright cuts on platinum and was advised to try aluminum tap magic
oil which helped a bunch and to use carbide engravers to avoid
having the platinum cold weld to the graver tip. I waited a while
to try the carbide engravers because of the extra difficulty in
sharpening and polishing carbide. One day I finally combined all
the diamond tools in my studio from an 8" 220 diamond wheel
on my lapidary to a 600 grit diamond file and ended up putting
the final polish on the tool with a little mounted diamond
polishing wheel in a flex shaft tool. I made a flat and a square
graver and now feel completely satisfied with the potential of
carbide and platinum which seemed to be made for each other. I am
getting the mirror bright cuts I've always wanted. Thanks for one
of the best tips of my career, and it was free on the internet! I am a TOTAL NEWBIE TO THIS AND IT TOTALLY FASCINATES
ME!!!!! Where can I get some good reference material to read
(I.E. magazines, books ,tapes and websites) I have the money to
buy a machine just want to get started but need more info. By
chance does anybody know if there is anybody who teaches classes
on this in the state of Illinois?? Any help is TRULY
APPRECIATED!!!! Thank You, Mark Hall Thanks Tom Just today I ground down a carbide drill and it
seems to work. But it sure isn't like cutting butter:) Forming a
carbide graver is an experience in itself. It sure would be a
much more enjoyable project if the gun was a little softer. Michael, shooting the gun will not soften the slide, at
least that is not a phenomenon that I am aware of. You may want
to contact S&W themselves, and see what they advise. Also,
what type of gravers are you using? A carbide or cobalt carbide
type graver may give better results than traditional tool steel
gravers. Take care, Tom I have a Walther .380 S & W stainless that I started
engraving, but it's hard as a rock. Can I have it annealed or
would shooting a couple boxes of shells thru it soften it up a
bit. Wanted expert engraver to fix a slightly pitted Perazzi
mx-8 action.Need to add additional scrolls/border and recut dog Paul, Bulino is one of those elastic terms in the engraving
world that gets used for two different tequniques, all dots "pointalism" or very fine lines , also called banknote
style. Either can be done very well with a square graver blank,
all though some might prefer an ongletter or knife for either as
well. I would recommend that you get a copy of Chris DeCamillus's
bulino seminar tape that Sam Welch reviewed just below your post.
Good Luck with it Info Needed-A good friend has a engraving vise which needs
a base and the top part,above the vise.It is an AD Muehlmatt #122
The Victor of Cinninatti,Ohio.Can anyone please email me contact
information for this company please,phone number too?We do
appreciate any and all help! Hey can someone tell me what shape a graver is to use for
Bulino engraveing? Thanks I just had the opportunity to preview the two seminar tapes
from the 2004 Reno show. Those who were there may or may not have
noted that Scott Pilkington ran out of time before getting into
the major portion of his seminar on scroll history, design and
layout. Scott went the "extra mile" when he got home
and taped the rest of his seminar, doing a very nice job of
presentation on how he designs and lays out scroll patterns. This
was provided to Eric and included in Scott's FEGA semnar tape.
Christain's seminar on bulino engraving was so well done and so
packed with the information we all have been looking for that it
is in a class of its own. This one is a "must have" tape and you will want to watch it several times in order to
assimilate all the info and you will want to purchase from FEGA
the casting of the wood duck engraving Chris did for the seminar.
The upcoming newsletter will have all the ordering info. There
will be a special member price for the set of tapes with a
deadline of mid May. Non members will be able to order using the
order form for tapes that is on the FEGA website. Shipping is
expected to start mid May. I can highly recommend both tapes.
Enjoy! Jerry...and all...I just finished previewing the seminar
tapes and will post my impressions and other info later today.
Hang in! Identification of Relief-Engraved Mod 586 .357 Revolver I
would appreciate any assistance as to the identification of the
engraver who executed this fine revolver I have just acquired.
one would wish to acquire. This Smith & Wesson Model 586 .357
revolver (sn ADD9137 was manufactured circa 1983). . The gun is
completely covered overall with deep, leaf-scroll engraving with
etched background. The gun has blued finish and trigger and
trigger and hammer are case color hardened. The S & W decal
on frame is surrounded by engarving patterns and the gun is
fitted with two-tone combination wood/stag grips with S & W
decal inset in them. When grips are removed the artist who
engraved the piece inscribed his initials and date
“H.L.G.-1984” inside and on inside of grips is a
stamped date with presumably the engravers trademark in ink . I
do not know if this is factory engraving or not. If anyone can
identify the engraver I would much appreciate it. If images do
not show up I can send them to any party. Thank you. John
cwlopi@aol.com I want the tape of De Camillas's bolino engraving
presentation at the guild show in 2004 plus the little casting
that goes with it or the one that he was selling at the show. HOW
CAN I GET THEM? jwh-flintlocks@yahoo.com There may be more than one book using the words Waffen
Gravuren in the title but the one I bought has excellent pictures
of deep relief modeled engraving and I believe I bought it from
the inventory of Cape Outfitters which you can find online. Just wanted to post a thank you for those who recommended
Johnny Weyert engraving school. I attended in February and have
never learned more in a 5 day school. On top of that Johnny is
truly a gentleman and scholar. Again, thanks. On another note, I
may be in the market for a GRS Gravermax. I have a system 3 that
will be for sale if I can find a gmax I can afford. Thanks, D.C.
Lance Has anybody had experience engraving Para ordinance LDA or
seen work done on them? Thanks, Mark I started engraving years ago and gave it up because of the
lack of training. Now that I'm retired (56 yrs old), I would like
to get back into it. Is anyone helping novices with the mechanics
of engraving out there? I am artistic, though no Rembrandt or
DaVinci, and traveling a short distance, up to three hundred
miles, could be arranged for quality instruction. My being on a
fixed income needs to be considered. Please respond via e-mail or
telephone. I have a very old wood engraved 3d picture of a monk in a
medieval wine cellar approx 23"x16"x2 1/2" signed
by Lee Breen could someone tell me where i can get an appraisal
,Thank you Steve joiner_275@msn.com New to engraving and am wondering what a good work bench
for engraving looks like. As a wood craver I am use to stand at a
tall heavy wooden bench but engraving seems to be diferent. Any
commerical benches out there. Thanks Rick Thanks, Jerry. I appreciate the help. I ordered one from
Germany. Shawn Shawn. there are no copies for sale in the USA that I know
of. Go to ABE book site on the net. and look under the authre in
stead of the title. there are some for sale in Germany. see
below. The book is in German. 7. Goldschmidt, Friedrich
Künstlerische Waffengravuren Ferlacher Meister.
Schwäbisch-Hall, Journal-Verlag Schwend, 1977. 2. Aufl. Mit
zahlr. farb. u. schw.-w. Abb. Quart. 269 S. KLdr. mit Umschl.
1450gr. nahezu neuwertig. Bookseller Inventory #7319 Price: US$
50.22 (Convert Currency) Bookseller: Antiquariat am St. Vith,
Mönchengladbach, Germany (Search this Seller's Books)(Ask
Bookseller a Question) Shawn: Try Ray Riling Arms Books
Co...www.rayrilingarmsbooks.com..phone (215)438-2456 Hello, Lee. I'll check them out. Many thanks. Shawn Shawn, You can try Jeff's Outfitters or Gunnerman Books. I
don't know whether they have it but they do have a number of
books on engraving. Lee Does anyone know where I can find the book Waffen Gravuren?
Thanks, Shawn Does anyone know what happened to Custom Engravers in North
Attleboro, Massachusetts. They have a gone out of business or
were sold. I had a two color die they made on file at the store.
Please call me if you have any information. Thank you JA Carroll i am looking for material such as nickel or pewter to enlay
into a rustic bar. bar is made of oak and hickory. thanks I am organizing a senior gift with my class at my high
school. We are considering raising money for a wooden bench, and
would want our names engraved into it. Would anyone know of a
company able to do this cheap? I was wondering if someone had some suggestions on how i
could ingrave wedding invatations....I have thought about using
carbon but i really dotn know much about engraving or what to
use...thank you for your help!!! Sam. The carbide worked pretty good. I got the job done and
it came out looking very nice. Since then Robert Evans gave me a
new piece of steel engraver that GRS. has out grs7 or something
like that is the number. I haven't tried it on hard metal but on
soft steel you can put a point of 35 deg on it and push it right
into the metal like a sewing needle. It is amazing. I may be nuts
but I hear\ted up the carbide to a red heat and let it cool slow
and I think it helped hold up longer without the tip breaking .I
really appreciate your advise Sam and the other guys also .I read
the forum every day to pick up on the advise you give to other
people also. Jerry Huddleston. Luis, Brian has it about right. First, be careful where you
try to engrave as it might come back to haunt you. Bent gravers
were and I suppose still are available from suppliers tho I don't
have any that I use. I tend to stay away from deep concave areas.
I draw the scroll or whatever on the steel which helps to cut
from different directions and "meet up" in the center.
A little practice and this works well. I also put a steeper heel
on my tool when working concave areas to help lift the back of
the tool. It takes longer to work concave areas but they can be
done nicely. To Luis: Engraving the inside of the grip frame is a time
consuming venture and one that I don't have much experience at.
I've heated ,bent, and re hardened gravers for those jobs, but
found that it gives me somewhat unsatisfactory results. My best
results were from just spending massive amounts of time working
the scrolls from both directions and (hopefully) meeting in the
middle with perfect (?) alignment. I've always tried to stay away
from the extremely "tight" areas. Let's hope someone
with more experience than I have can chime in to shed more light
on this subject. It's a tough one, indeed. Best of luck. Brian: Thanks for the response. Gonna have to try that. Now
that we're on the subject, how do you go about engraving the
inside of the grip frame? Do you have to bend a graver to get the
clearance you need? If so, how do you maintain the graver's
hardness? Sorry about so many questions but it is a puzzlement.
Luis Jerry, how did the gold inlay work for you? Dennis and JJ
etc...I made a tool from the saw blade and gave it a try today.
It was not quite as good as the carbide I have been using. At
least not with my gravermeister and technique. It is a very hard
metal and may work as good or better in the softer steels. I
tried it on a Win. M-70 frame which is very tough metal. I still
want to try it for bulino and in softer steel to see if the point
holds up better than carbide. Sam To Luis Uzueta on your Ruger Vaquero: Your best bet to
remove the "Warning Book" stamped on the barrel is to
have your gunsmith unscrew the barrel, remove the front sight and
then use a barrel spinner to remove the stampings. The front
sight is easily re-installed, via silver solder, into its slot.
Most gunsmiths are very experienced with silver soldering. I
would stay away from draw filing.....you might make a noticeable
flat spot on that round barrel. The "spinning" process
will reduce the overall diameter of the barrel slightly (maybe
.015") and the ejector rod housing will screw back on
without a problem. No one will notice the slight difference in
the contours and it won't matter either. Since you will have the
barrel off of the gun, it will also be easier to engrave without
that big frame in your way. The front sight slot will give you an
"index" for centerline referencing. My SS Vaquero looks
great without that warning book all over the barrel. Wish I had been able to attend the Reno Show.
Unfortunately, couldn't quite swing it this year. Been working on
my Ruger Vaquero as a practice piece and I'm now confronted with
the barrel and it's massively intrusive inscription. How do
other's deal with this problem. Initial thought revolves around
pulling the barrel and draw filing the inscription out of
existence. But, a gunsmith friend tells me the front sight is
almost brazed on and would be a bear to replace. Is this so?
Also, what's a simple way to establish a center line down the
length of it. I can come close but my nature rebels and yells for
precision. Hmmm? Ian, I would be glad to answer what questions I can. Where
are you located, I will be in london mid may. Regards,Barry Also, I have a tape from RF Ford in Texas on how to make
spurs (very good). I also have 3 Jerimiah Watt tapes on making
spurs to how to engrave. Thanks. I have a GRS Gravermax for sell. I also am selling my GRS
heavy engraving ball and the sharpening machine. I have many
accessories and the angle tool for the sharpening machine. The
condition is excellent. I have only used this equipment on 10
pairs of spurs - silver engraving. It was bought in 1998 and
stored inside my house very carefully. I will send pics if
interested. (972) 226-3516 Craig hi all Is there anyone out there willing to guyed me in
hand engraving,I have just ordered some hand gravers from the
usa.which am looking forward to holdinging and having a go at
some metal ect.but over here in england there does,nt seem to be
many hand engravers and even less willing to help.all I'm after
is a person with patience who can answer my e-mails.hope some one
can help regards ian uk I have read James Meek's book The Art of Engraving several
times and practiced many hours on my Gravermaster. I'm conserned,
in regards to Engraving Script, I'm left handed, is there any
differance in my direction of cuts, when doing it all with my
left hand? Any and all suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks,
Don John Stringer, A competent knifemaker can anneal a colt
frame. the frame is wrapped in stainless or titanium foil with a
bit of paper to reduce oxidation. the part is then heated to a
critical temp, and allowed to cool slowly. Colt did not use to
harden the blued frames, but I have been told liability is on the
last guy to work on the gun. If you have an ffl, the NRA has a
good insurance program. never anneal cylinders or lock parts.
regards, Barry I could use some help on styles of engraving found on
Remington model 32's. books,places to look Ect. Sandy...If you are looking for an inexpensive tool you
might want to try the NGraver Company in Connecticut. They put
out an electric engraving tool called The Magnagraver Vari-Pact.
The owner of the company is Ray Phillips..tele.# is
1-860-823-1533. You can reach him 9-5 est. He will be glad to
help you with any questions. You might want to ask him about his
catalog. My husband has been engraving and etching for about 3 years
now and has used both the Paragraver and the Powercraft high
speed tools but is looking for other sources for these devices.
The lesser expensive of the two has a bearing of some kind that
keeps going out and has to be replaced quite often at $100 a shot
and the other more expensive model runs about $300 but it doesn't
last too long either. They both run about 400,000 RPM's and work
off his compressor. Anybody have any other sources? I would
appreciate the help. Thanks! I have posted some pictures on men engravers forums any
comments woould be welcomed.Joe A big thank you to all of you that e-mailed me with
information on western style engraving. I'm sure that what info
was sent will help me get to the next step. thank you all
again-sherry. Gretchen, sounds like you are need of a woodcarver not an
engraver, although for what you are wanting, probably the
fastest, cheapest and easiest thing you could do is go to a
trophy shop, and have them laser cut what you want into the wood.
Just about any bigger trophy shop will have that these days I am turning my living room into a small in-house chapel.
Over the entrance, I want a rectangular strip of wood engraved to
say the following: "As for me and my house, we will serve
the Lord." I also plan to have an alter, over which I would
also like engraved in wood the following: "Except the Lord
build the house, it will not prosper." I have inquired
around the Atlanta, Ga area where I live, but I have not been
successful at finding an engraver to do the job. Can anyone
HELP!!!! Thank you. I am turning my living room into a small in-house chapel.
Over the entrance, I want a rectangular strip of wood engraved to
say the following: "As for me and my house, we will serve
the Lord." I also plan to have an alter, over which I would
also like engraved in wood the following: "Except the Lord
build the house, it will not prosper." I have inquired
around the Atlanta, Ga area where I live, but I have not been
successful at finding an engraver to so the job. Can anyone
HELP!!!! Thank you. Sherry, Check with Johny Weyerts (1-800-687-2969) or
G.R.S.(www.GRStools.com) for classes on bright cut. Would like to know about engraving color casehardened colt
frames...how to anneal before engraving, and if I nickel after
engraving...does the frame need to be re-hardened? Any advice
will be greatly appreciated...thanx John still need help on information for learning how to do
western style engraving. any info would be appreciated. thank
you---sherry. Thank you very much Sam. I will go at it tomorrow. It is so
good to be in the guild and have all this help. I can't get over
how good all the guys are .I tell people everywhere I go. Jerry, for very small lettering I make a carbide chisel,
small enough to fit the cuts, and "undercut" by
pressing by hand down into the cuts, both sides of the cut. This
is like the usual method of dovetailing with a chisel but the
work is so small that very little pressure is needed to make the
necssary dovetail. Use wire only a little larger than the cuts
and press in with burnisher. You can do very tiny letters this
way. Taught to me by one of my students in Susanville by the name
of Joe On. See...you CAN teach an old dog new tricks. Here's a link to some photos from Reno. These are larger
files, so your download time may vary if you are on a slow
connection http://pilkguns.com/2004/renofega2004/index.htm Anybody ever engrave a Weatherby pot metal trigger guard?
The gunsmith I work with says this one is pot metal. Thanks, John I once heard Sam Welch say that he undercut small lines for
inlaying gold with a scriber. I need some help here. I am doing
very small letters in script and I cannot find a material or a
design where the point will hold up for undercutting the letters
especially on the tips of the E's and l's etc. Carbide seems to
work better than anything but often breaks. HELP! HELP! Lee, please tell us what kind of equipment that was! I have
been known to "rig" a few guns in my time too, esp.
after rust blueing! Tom Dave Gantt, you can best start by getting a copy of James
Meek's book The Art of Engraving and read it though a few times.
This will give you the basic knowledge you need to set a course
for the future. Available through Brownellss=. need help---------i am looking to make ranger type buckles
and need to know if anyone can offer information on hand
engraving the western "bright cut". i am not able to
find any patterns or designs on this. which tools to do the
designs. Also where to find info on soldering silver---such as
which solder,and do you use propane torches or a mixture? any
info would be great. what books or videos would be the best to
begin with? my libraries have no information at all. thanks----sj I have been told that I need to anneal the frame on color
cased colts..how is that done? after engraving, does the frame
need to be re-hardened? Would like to know just what I need to
do...Thanks Being an avid shotgunner (s x s double variety) I have
always admired the quality engraving on most of the guns I shoot.
I would like to learn how to do this engraving. I'm looking for
some direction as to where I might start. ANY HELP WOULD BE
APPRECIATED. Thank you. Thank you for the kind comments Mr. President. I has been
my great pleasure to work with my friends and fellow engravers
during my years in FEGA. I'm confident that you and your board of
officers and directors will continue to lead this guild in new
and exciting directions. I had asked for input on cutting a magnum research BFR
before Christmas. I did get the job, and for future reference,
the metal cut very well, maybe the easiest time I have had
cutting stainless, whether the frame or the cylinder. Hope this
helps someone in the future! take care,Tom I would like to thank you for your vote of confidence in
electing me President of the Firearms Engravers Guild of Am. This
is a great honor and I do not take this position lightly. I was
Treasurer of the Guild for 11 years so I know the amount of work
the office of President will require. I look forward to working
with the Board of Directors and all the members of the guild to
keep FEGA moving forward as our past presidents have done. We
have some big challenges to face, but we have a great board of
Directors and a fantastic membership to overcome these
challenges. I have appointed Manuel Gonzales to fill the
remaining 1 year term as Treasurer. Please welcome Manuel. As
Guild members we owe a great debt of gratitude to Mike Dubber.
Mike has been a Board member, Editor,Vice President & President. The amount of hours that he has devoted to the Guild
is unbelievable. Mike has been a cornerstone of the Guild for
many years and an inspiration to us all. Thank you Mike. Bob
Strosin Thank You all for the kind responses on the seminar, it
made my efforts worthwile. I hope that with the new tecniques
that you learned from the seminar that next year we will see some
great bulino engraving at the show next year. Chris I too, learned more from Chris than I have for a long time.
Only problem is that the time allowed for the best seminars is
usually too short! ADDING TO SAM WELCH'S COMMENTS: I urge every engraver to
reserve a table next year, regardless of your skill level. This
is the best arena to expand your engraving abilities, and you owe
it to yourself to be there. No other venue will urge you to be
the best you can be.Thousands of years of combined engraving
experience right there in one room, and they are more than
willing to answer any question asked of them. You can't afford
not to be there. A big THANK YOU to Eric Gold, Sam Welch, Chris
DeCamillis,Ron Smith,Roger Sampson,Bob Strosin, Marty
Rabeno,Scott Pilkington,Mike Dubber,Mark Swanson, Lee
Griffiths,Bill Gamradt,Jim Blair,Bob Evans,Doug Turnbull,Gil
Rudolph,Johny Weyerts,for the generosity of your engraving
knowledge. I just wanted to thank everyone involved with the show in
Reno. The displays were simply spectacular. The artwork was not
only beautiful to look at but also inspiring, especially for a
newbie like me. Thanks also to all those who were so willing to
critique my work and help me to improve. See you all again next
year. Thank both you fellows for the help. I guess I will call
GRS and speak to the man you mentioned. maybe i will have luck
and I will post the results for everyone to see. For those of you who were unable to attend the Reno show
last week let me say that you missed something special. The
siminars were well attended and excellent. I especially recommend
that you buy the tape for Christian DeCamillis' siminar on bulino
engraving. I think I learned more from it than any that I can
remember. It was outstanding and my thanks to Chris for sharing
the knowledge that he worked so hard to obtain. You should call grs and ask fo jb he is the tech support
guy and he isnt there to sell anything. It sounds to me like the
spring and break are still inside. when you removed the nut did
you remove the spring and brake behind it? I think that if not
the spring and break are jammed up against the center bearings
since you removed the top portion of the vise. but call jb he can
help you in deterining what has happened Christian To Jeffery Howard: I have a similar problem with my
positioning vise. The three bearings inside the vise are actually
just two.....the top and bottom. The one in the middle is not a
bearing. It is the area where the "drag" pin is forced
against to reduce or eliminate "Freewheeling". It is
supposed to be rock solid. My vise is older and used a nylon or
teflon slip ring between the two halves of the vise. I understand
that the newer vises now use a set of roller bearings where the
old slip ring was. The roller bearing setup is adaptable to older
vises, like mine. I just found out about it this past weekend,
but haven't made the call to order them yet. Hope this helps. I have a small problem I hope someone can help. I have a
GRS positioning vise. When I got it, I set it down and loosened
the braking nut all the way out and spun the top with my hand.
The vise spun like a precision ball bearing around and around.
Several several times. Fine Now I was cleaning all the packing
grease off it, and I depressed the adjusting lever lever and the
top of the vise moved to another position in the same direction
as the vise was tilted. So I adjusted back center. The vise will
No Longer Spin nice and freely as it did. When I now go to spin
it, it barley makes one revolution and stops quickly. What
Happened. The brake nut is out. I took the top off and the vise
has three fat bearings with a bolt in the center. The top bearing
spins freely and forever. The bottom one does also. But the
center one is Lock tight. Will not move. Is that Normal. does
that bolt need loosened? My question is....How do I get it back
to the way it was. What happened? What do I do to adjust the
Bearings? or Lever? Any info will be greatly appreciated. I
havent call the GRS. when I do, they somehow always make me feel
like I have to buy something to get tech support. At least thats
how I have felt in the past. If anyone has any suggestions I
would surely appreciate it. Those three stacked "roller
skate" bearings seem like they all shoud spin and the middle
one will not move. Other than that, it looks normal. Thanks
everyone! Looking for an engraver to add a retirement message to an
antique copper fire extinguisher. Email me with quote on price
per word. Hi, I'm planning on moving to Seattle sometime soon and was
wondering if any of you knew any hand engravers in that area. I'm
in the jewelry design business and its been hard to find a hand
engraver from that area. Thanks, Alec Hi, Just thought i would introduce myself, my names stu and
im the md of a company called mega creations. Engraving
based,using the sandblasting method, we specialise in
photoengraving ( have been doing it for 20 years), glass and
granite,. We also manufacture masks ready to blast per customer
spec! I didnt know if this would be of use to anyone, our website
is www.megacreations.co.uk Kind Regards Stu Gebbie Hi all, Just an update.... I still have a sharpening
fixture for GRS power hone (QC) and a large handpiece for
Gravermate/Max but, The videos have been sold - Thanks all.
-Chris I carve 22ft TOTEM POLES anybody interested ? Hand done and
creative. Contact me. You can also order Ron's book directly from our guild. Just
click on the BOOKS link and you can find an order form. Ron Smith sells the book directly, I also think GRS has it
listed in their catalog Mr Roberts Thanks for the advice on books to improve my
scroll drawing. I am having trouble finding this book by Ron
Smith. Any sources on this book would be appreciated. Gerald
Taylor Hi all, I have a few used items for sale...A #506 handpiece
for Gravermate/max, a Quick Change fixture for power hone &
GRS video I&II. Drop me aline if anyone is interested in all
or part or trade or whatever..... Take Care all. -Chris Gerald Taylor....I would recommend: Drawing & Understanding Scroll Designs by Ron Smith Ron makes it very
simple and easy to understand drawing and scroll design. Two
books by Dover Books: Handbook of Ornaments by Franz Sales Meyer
The Styles of Ornament by Alexander Speltz JJ I would like the names of a few good books on engraving
designs.Thanks Gerald Scotch stones used to be a staple of jewlery engravers but
are no longer available due to the closing of the quarry they
were taken from. Its a grey fine grit stone used with water to
remove light to semi- deep scratches or slips prior repolishing
with tripoli and then rouge. I still have some which I literally
inherited from deceased engravers. I don't think Arkansas stones
are an equivilent. The best place to find stones that work like
scotch stones is Gesswein jewlers supply. They have a large
selection of diemakers stones in just about every hardness and
will work just as well as scotch stones if not better, since you
can work your way from hard to soft stones to remove scratches in
stages, which is a better idea. The funny thing is that since I
went from hand powered gravers to a Lindsay airgraver, I rarely
use my scotch stones since almost never slip anymore. The stones
that I was worried would run out before I did will now probably
be inherited by my apprentice instead. Dennis, ditto Sam's comments about the Hacksaw blade... I
have been working on this---
http://www.ckdforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19344 Jim, Check out these guys for your stone you are looking
for. The sell everything for polishing and finishing. Congress
TOols Inc. 1-800-243-2653 Dennis, what with getting ready for the up-coming trip to
Reno it will have to wait until after I return before I have time
to cut, form and try out the steel. Sam According to Oppi Untracht in "Jewelry Concepts And
Technology", Water-of-Ayr is similiar to Arkansas stone and
is used for final polishing of gravers. It is also called Scotch
stone. I couldn't find it in any of the jewelers supply catalogs.
Norm I, and others, would like to hear a "progress
report" on the use of the Starret Red Stripe power hacksaw
blade as a graver material. WANTED: Does anyone know of a source of a polishing stone
called "Water-of-Ayr" or "bluestone"? They
were used wet as a finish before polishing metal by engravers and
jewelers. Used to be mined in Wales, England. They seem to have
completely disappeared. Thank you, Jim Skladany. Arlon, it is probably done by bluing the gun then removing
the bluing with a rust remover such as Naval Jelly. Though it
leaves a phosphatized finish on the metal it is not very
protective so be sure to keep it clean and oiled. Shooting
shouldn't harm the finish, just do the cleaning and oiling. There
are other ways to "french grey", plating being one of
them but seldom used, especially is there is any gold inlay.
Check the metal surface under magnification. If you can see some
fine uniform pitting of smooth areas the gun was likely rust
blued prior to greying. If fairly smooth then I would expect hot
dip bluing before greying. Regards. Sam Not exactly an engraving question but rather a finish of an
engraved revolver question (if the question has to go, kill it).
I recently purchased an engraved revolver that is finished in
what was called "french gray". Can someone lead to
information on exactly what this finish might be as applied to an
engraved gun after the engraving (not the french gray bead blast
from midway I think). I've tried this question on several
"smithing" forums without an answer. I assume it is not
too popular a finish for what ever reason. I would like to shoot
the gun but sure what shooting will do to this finish. Any input
or links would be appreciated. Care suggestions also appreciated. Does anyone have the following FEGA videos (VHS) that they
want to sell at a price that a 10th grader can afford? Tool
Geometry by Don Glaser-1991. Engraving Basics by Rex
Pedersen-1991. Drawing techniques, Layout Process, Shading. Ron
Smith-2001. Drawing Techniques I & II Layout Process, Lee
Griffiths Thanks Sherry, get pure. It requires some 2100 degrees temp to
anneal so use a propane tourch. It also work-hardens on the first
hit so be sure you set it with that first hit. Otherwise it is
like doing gold. Be sure you have a good under cut. Good luck.
Sam Platinum Inlay... I have a customer who wants platinum
inlays on express sights. Any tips.. Does it work like gold??
Should I purchase pure, or with alloy added. Any help will be
appreciated. Here is an invitation, regarding engraving the Ruger
Stainless shotguns. As Ruger offers these shotguns in an engraved
version, are any of the engravers who are doing this work out
their who would care to share their techniques/tips? Dennis Here's a chance to attend a great course at great price...
http://www.money.org/press/20031028-summer.html To Scott Caudle...........I too, have chilling memories
about Ruger Red Label Shotguns and I will never do another one. I
haven't engraved any of the chrome/moly steel(Blued) Rugers
rifles, but the blued handguns come out OK. You may want to look
at the Browning BPS Shotguns. They are well made, easy to
engrave(Because they are completely blank on both sides),usually
have pretty nice wood stocks,will re-blue nicely, and are half
the price of a Red Label.That makes it real nice for your Fund
Raising project.It comes in all gauges, except .16 Ga.- Go
figure. The only real problem is taking the magazine tube off the
receiver. It has red LockTite and usually gets "totaled" removing it(Even when you heat it up).
Browning/Winchester will get you the part for about $20.00.+/- I can only comment on the stainless red label. I have done
one and since then I have conveniently priced myself out of the
market. Having said that I have recently been deluded enought to
have tackled 3 modern bolt rifles that rockwell around 44-46 on
the receiver. Sympathy accepted. Cackling and guffaws expected.
Gold inlay will be one's greatest challenge. Simple scroll is
possible. I used a 120 degree graver and on the tip of the face I
ground a secondary face, very small, at 70 degrees. Patience is a
virtue...........right now! Hope everyone is having a happy New Year's eve. A few weeks
ago, I submitted a question concerning the difficulty engraving a
Ruger Red Label shotgun due to the hardness of the metal. I
received a response from Rex Pederson, but had a few more
questions and was hoping to get additional input. I have
discovered that no one likes to talk about the Ruger shotguns. I
was wondering if anyone has tried to cut a blued Ruger. Are these
just as hard? I have a friend who would like me to tell him what
type of shotgun to get so after I engrave it he can raffle it off
to raise money for a scholarship fund. Any suggestions on another
type of plain shotgun (about the same grade as a Red Label) that
would be better suited for engraving? Rex said if it doesn't
require much engraving/detail then do the Ruger. If it does
require quite a bit of detail, then find another manf & remove the roll stamping. I am not a professional. This will be
my first shotgun. What type of shotguns do the rest of you cut?
Do ya'll have to remove the roll stamping? Thanks for your
response, Rex. I appreciate any input that the rest of the group
can provide. Have a good'n.
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