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I can't stand all day anymore. I have a stool that is so high it is almost the same as standing and I use a microscope. I do a lot of muzzle loading barrels that are as long as four feet long .I have the large ball that weighs about 45 lbs. when I am doing a barrel I have rails that I clamp on my engraving bench that go almost all the way around me. The barrels rest on the rail and I can swivel them about 150 deg. this works better than anything I can figure out except standing. But on long barrels you still need some kind of rest. I'm trying to figure out how to engrave laying down. Any ideas. Berry Hands ought to know.
jerry huddleston <huddlestonjerry@msn.com>
Baker City, Oregon 5415232593 - Wednesday, December 29, 2004 at 23:52:45 (EST)

BR Engraving, My question is are you trying to engrave this barrel sitting down? When I engrave barrels or any other gun part, I stand. My vice which is 45 pounds sits on a pedestal made from four 2x6's, sealed with quarter inch plywood top and bottom, filled with concrete. It is much easier to move around the vice. On gun receivers and other gun parts, I can cut a scroll in one pass without stopping. The only time I sit down is when I do my layout on the gun part. Try standing up: you'll save your back. I have talked to many engravers over the years and I hear them talking about their bad backs. The reason for their bad backs is that they spend their time hunched over a vice. You can work standing up whether you use hammer and chisel, hand tool, Gravermiester, Gravermax, Gravermate, or Ngrave. Good luck, Billy Jo. Yours truly, J.J. Roberts
J. J. Roberts <jjrengraver@aol.com>
Manassas, VA 703-330-0448 - Wednesday, December 29, 2004 at 14:49:40 (EST)

I have been engraving for only 8 months and have been practincing diligently..I have a problem that I don't know how to approach. The problem is when I try to engrave on the end of a gun (in this case a shotgun) my vice seems to be inefficient. The reason for this is because when i swing the vice with the gun barrel in it i always seem to be bending over and stretching to reach the area to be engraved. I was wondering if there is anyone out there amongst you talented people that know of a way to solve this. In other words, is there something special a fella can build so to keep the work in front of him instead of haveing to reach for the dagone area, In Minnesota with a very sore back thanx all and happy new year.
BR Engraving <billyjo@sleepyeyetel.net>
Hanska, Mn 507-439-6254 - Monday, December 27, 2004 at 18:36:04 (EST)

 

i want to wish everyone in the Guild a "Merry Christmas", & a "Happy, Healthy & Prosperous New Year", & keep up the good work!
JJ
- Thursday, December 23, 2004 at 10:10:44 (EST)


"WANTED" LOOKING FOR AN ELECTRIC CHECKERING OUTFIT--MUST BE REASONABLE--THANKS--JIM
JIM <acehenson@sbcglobal.net>
NACOGDOCHES, TX 936-564-5118 - Monday, December 20, 2004 at 20:17:48 (EST)


Bernard. I have used the Gold Lode from Brownells in engraving and it looks good and stayed in my shotgun for several years with no touchup. While I am here, I have an Olympus Scope with a flourescent Lightring for sale. It has 10XWF lens for $350+ shp Contact me at Longline@lightbound.com if you are interested. This is a great engraving scope
Charlie Glackman <Longline@lightbound.com>
Fairland, IN 46126 317-835-2650 - Thursday, December 16, 2004 at 23:00:08 (EST)


Bernard. I don't think gold could be burnished into shell but soft lead wire of close diameter might work. Polish to a high luster with fine abrasive paper and selective pen plate first with copper then then gold. Gold adheres betteto a copper flash. Be sure to leave a small piece hanging out for a ground lead. Spot electro plating is done with a pen plater(Rio grande) or Texas plater. Metal should be fresh sanded and degreased with alcohol At any rate try to get the lead to stick before thinking about plating equipment. A probable and practical alternative might be to just brush in 24 kt gold lacquer (Gold Lode from Brownells). I havent tried any of this just some ideas off the top of my head. Hope something works! Jim
Jim Sonberg <jsonberg@rcn.com>
- Thursday, December 16, 2004 at 17:37:27 (EST)


Bernard, I haven't heard of anyone in the FEGA family inlaying into shell with gold. I would think the shell is too fragile to take the pressure needed to press the gold into a dovetail in the shell, assuming one could cut or scrape a dovetail into the material. It would be an interesting experiment. Sam
Sam
UT - Tuesday, December 14, 2004 at 21:17:10 (EST)


I have a GRS ring light and a .5 objective for a Mieji scope for sale - Please let me know if anyone is interested. Both pieces are basicly new...... Chris
Chris <Chrislowe87@hotmail.com>
NY - Tuesday, December 14, 2004 at 04:16:36 (EST)


shell inlay. I need to engrave fine details, but I can't have the details disappear (shell is different from metal and doesn't show the engraved lines as well), so I want to fill them with something, but neither do I like the flat look of black wax or india ink, which is the accepted means in modern shell inlay on guitars. But I was looking through Meek's book, and noticed the chapter on inlaying wire. That would be rather cool! But, again, shell is not steel. As he demonstrates, gold wire and gold sheet taps well into steel. But shell is soft, I think I read in a book on shell inlay that it is a 3 on the Moe scale of hardness. Will the shell hold in the gold the way steel does? If I prefer to save money, will it hold in brass? Dix gold? Silver? Even copper (I'm doing an inlay of a violinist, and the bow is too long and thin to cut of shell and would be easiest to engrave & inlay over everything else)? Or is copper too hard versus the shell, and I'll just end up chipping the engraved cavity in the shell (the shell is .06" thick, which should help, it's not veneer thin)? Any suggestions/reccommendations? thanks! -Bernard
Bernard Arnest <barnest@comcast.net>
Towson, MD 410 296 1626 - Sunday, December 12, 2004 at 14:32:30 (EST)

 


Jeff, You should go to Reno, NV the end of January to the Firearms Guild and Gunmaker's Guild show at the Silver Legacy. You will have the opportunity to see and talk to a large number of engravers and see their work. I am sure you would find it worthwhile.
Dennis Potter
Muskego,, WI - Thursday, December 09, 2004 at 00:23:48 (EST)


Hello, I am hoping someone can offer me some guidance regarding locating an engraver. You see, this winter I am commissioning the creation of two custom made rifles (one for me and one for my father). Next year, it is my intention to begin the process of having the rifles engraved. The ultimate design has yet to be determined and, in fact, that is one area where I need help. However, I can say that I am seeking to have the engraver incorporate my family's crest into the design so that ultimately the rifles will not only be working guns but will become family heirlooms to be passed down through the generations.
Jeff LaCourse <LaCourse_Jeffrey@nlvmail.com>
Saco, Maine - Wednesday, December 08, 2004 at 12:47:38 (EST)


The guild has funds available for scholarships for 2005. These can be used for seminars, short classes or extended classes. The award is based on academic merit, financial need, occupational intent, or experience, or a combination thereof. Applicants must meet the following criteria: a. minimum age of 16 years or older. b. FEGA members given preference. Applicants must include the following: a. Applicant's name, address, city, state, zip, and phone number b. Class, instructor (instructor should be a FEGA member) and school c. A statement describing your interest in firearms engraving and why you are applying for this scholarship. Applications must be post marked by Friday, Dec. 24, 2004 Send applications to: FEGA Scholarship c/o Jim Blair PO Box 64 Glenrock, Wyo. 82637 For more information by phone or e-mail: 307-436-8115 or jblairengrav@msn.com
Jim Blair
- Monday, December 06, 2004 at 14:22:04 (EST)


Hi Laurie, You can indeed get by with just the tools you mention. I did so for much of my first 20 years or so.... but doing it this way cost me 3 carpal tunnel surgeries, two elbow releases, and shoulder surgery. I seriously doubt I would have found these surgeries necessary had we had the level of pneumatic tools available now, available to me 35 years ago. There are many more reasons for the almost unanimous switch over to power assisted pneumatic engraving tools. One is the "McDonalds mentality" that prevails in the world as we know it now. Gotta have it/learn it RIGHT NOW! The learning curve (think: time spent to become reasonably accomplished ) with the power assisted tools can sometimes be cut by as much as much as 70%... Someday it may be possible to learn even faster, by osmosis, or hooking brains together in some way to transfer skills - but in the meantime this is the fastest method. Another is that most of the students I see these days are well over 40 years old. They don't have a lot of patience. They don't have a lot of time. If they intend to get a body of artwork together during the time that they have left, they've got to utilize anything that helps. Power assisted pneumatic tools do... Still another - there are about 90% less accidents due to slippage. This means less stress on extremely expensive or important jobs. It also means you are much less likely to need a blood transfusion. I can give you at least half a dozen more reasons (speed, accuracy, etc.), but these should give you an idea.
Brian P. Marshall <instructor@jewelryartschool.com>
Stockton, CA 209-477-0550 - Monday, November 29, 2004 at 21:21:27 (EST)

Hi everyone, I have for sale 2 tapes I purchased from FEGA. They were viewed once, which was today. I should have realized that these were geared toward firearm engraving, (dah) which I do not want to do, I would like to focus strickly on jewelry since I am a goldsmith and the demand is incredible. First tape is # 16, "Engraving Basics" by Rex Pedersen Second tape is # 27, "Lettering" with Gil Rudolph and "Devices for use at the Bench" with Bob Evans They were $30.00 each or there abouts so I guess I would want close to that as possible since they are basically brand new. (My mistake I should have known better) Next question...is anyone using Engraver's "MagnaGraver"? I tried it out, great concept but it seems a bit large for my hand to control. Also I have read through the past 3 years of archives and the feeling I got was as a beginner like myself was to invest in a power engraving system because it would make the learning process go that much quicker. Am I correct in assuming this and why?? I have gone to the homes of 2 semi retired engravers for the jewelry trade, both in their 60's and all they have is a gravers ball, sharpening stone, (no hone) and basic hand push gravers set into mushroom handles. This is how I was going about my practicing but if everything I have read in the archives is true then I need to invest a lot of money into power equiptment. Please Advise. Thanks much, Laurie p.s. if anyone is interested in these tapes please contact me through my e-mail...thanks again.
Laurie <anette@peoplepc.com>
Enfield, CT - Monday, November 29, 2004 at 18:25:30 (EST)

Does anyone know the current contact info for an engraver friend of mine, Lee Dufresne? If you do and don't feel comfortable sending it directly to me please let him know Stan England is trying to reach him.
Stan England <stanenglandengraving@msn.com>
Hillsboro, OR 97124 503-681-8458 - Saturday, November 27, 2004 at 12:58:37 (EST)

Chris, Thanks for the information. Jay
Jay Mazer <jaymazer@comcast.net>
Plantation, Fl. 33317 954-581-8021 - Thursday, November 25, 2004 at 21:12:58 (EST)


Got a couple of questions that have been floating around in my head for the last few months. Finally had time to get them on the forum. Question one: Had a feller look at my work over closely the other day. He liked it. That got me to thinking---I know, that can be dangerous---when you look at someone's work with a hand-held magnifier, what are you looking for? Question two: In your mind, with regard to scrolls, what is the difference between engraving and "bank note" engraving? Luis
Luis Uzueta <Poco@gci.net>
North Pole, AK - Wednesday, November 24, 2004 at 15:04:36 (EST)


Chris, contact GRS abouut the courses, I suspect it will be a week or so before they work out the details for the application process. Jay, there are two choices initially, power assisted or all hand power. For hand you need a few gravers, some mushroom shaped handles, a chasing hammer and lots of time to practice. I learned this way, made my living for over a decade with these methods and taught basic engraving classes this way. __________________________________- the other option is power assisted engraving and names like GRS, Ngraver, and the Lindsey AirGraver are your basic choices. Add to that,GRS has 3 entirely different systems to offer, the GRavermeister, GRavermax and the System III. Each of these offereing from the various makers have their various pros and cons, based on user preferences and the type work being performed. Additionaly, every system is capable of superb work in the hands of a skilled user. I have now used the GRavermax system for over a decade, and have now taught probably 20 or more classes over the last eight years for GRS using this system. I cannot recomend these classe highly enough. You will leave after five days on Friday afternoon doing work far beyond what I was capable of after a year of solid practice with hammer and chisel.
Scott Pilkington
- Wednesday, November 24, 2004 at 11:35:32 (EST)


Scott, Thanks for the info. Could you forward the info on how to apply for consideration for those courses,as well as the NRA course you described. I appreciate you taking the time to help out. Thanks, Chris
Chris <Chrislowe87@hotmail.com>
- Wednesday, November 24, 2004 at 05:42:07 (EST)


I am facinated with the engraving I have seen on firearms. I would like to pursue this art. Please recommend what equipment I will need to get started, as well as any other advice you would like to add. I truly could use all the help I can get. Thank you in advance. Jay
Jay Mazer <jaymazer@comcast.net>
Plantation, Fl. 33317 954-581-8021 - Tuesday, November 23, 2004 at 23:42:57 (EST)


Chris, I assume you are asking about the Masters classes. Not knowing what you've done in terms of progression in two years, I really could not say. I know some folks that have taken the GRS classes and doing some awesome work in less than 6 months. Those classes will have applicants submit a packet of photos relative to their expereince and all participants will be chosen by the teacher, either Churchill or Smith, on a totally annoymous basis.
Scott Pilkington
- Tuesday, November 23, 2004 at 16:49:19 (EST)


Scott, Are these classes appropriate for someone like myself with just a basic GRS course completed & 2 or so years experience? -Chris
Chris <Chrislowe87@hotmail.com>
- Monday, November 22, 2004 at 15:38:14 (EST)


I will be teaching a basic engraving class for the NRA Schools in Trinidad Colorado March 21-25. _________________________ Also, GRS will be hosting two Grand Master's weeks. Ron Smith will be teaching one class, and Winston Churchill will be teaching another. What a grand oppurtunity for instruction and interaction. contact GRS for info about applying.
Scott Pilkington <www.pilkguns.com>
- Monday, November 22, 2004 at 14:53:02 (EST)


Hand Tool - Magna-Graver II with Vari-Pact Like New – for $225.00 firm. Originally paid $325.00…in original box with the 4 collets, and instruction sheet…used a few times..then I purchased a new completely different system, this handtool is no longer needed...postage/ins. extra.
JJ Roberts <jjrengraver@aol.com>
Manassas, VA - Tuesday, November 16, 2004 at 09:38:25 (EST)


We are looking for photos of Terry Wallace to put in a photo album to be displayed on his table at the Reno Show this year. The album will later be given to his wife, Betty. If you have duplicate photos (since the photos will not be returned), they can be mailed to the guild office at: 3011 E Pine Dr Flagstaff AZ 86004 If you have originals that you want to share, you can either mail them to the Guild office with a note to please return,(we will duplicate them and return) or scan them and email to fegainfo@fega.com. Also include any info about the photo if possible. Your help is greatly appreciated!!!!
FEGA <fegainfo@fega.com>
- Wednesday, November 10, 2004 at 07:33:09 (EST)


The "Palm Control" by Lindsay IS pretty incredible... I have been working with the first one for a couple months now. It can be snapped right on to either the Chasing or Classic tools that are already out there. It's my favorite tool on the bench these days. Took a little getting used to - but then I've always found myself feeling around for the foot pedal, even when I'm using a chasing hammer! Too many years of using foot pedals for all kinds of equipment, I guess. Steve has also just released a new "Bronze" version of the Omega. This one is an entry level tool and starts around $500. We used one here for the last class and no one wanted to share it without threats of bodily injury from the next student in line. I beleive the first one sold was purchased by Ross Mitsuyuki over in Hawaii after that class. Maybe he'll post sumthin' about it? I know he reads the forum. This new tool does not have the variable strokes per minute (adjusted with a collar on the handle) that are on the other models, but it is quite a bit more powerful. Perfect for the titanium that Ross is engraving...
Brian Marshall <instructor@jewelryartschool.com>
Stockton, CA 209-477-0550 - Monday, November 08, 2004 at 22:55:48 (EST)


For those that are interested the new Lindsay Palm Control handle can be viewed at http://www.handgravers.com/news.htm Great idea, can't wait till they come on the market.
Tim Clark <metalchipper@aol.com>
Miami, Fl. The Plywood State - Saturday, November 06, 2004 at 22:34:06 (EST)


For sale: I have a GRS GraverMax complete set-up for sale. I bought it, but do not have time to use it, or practice. It was used very little it is still all but new. The hand pieces are still in the original boxes with the original paper work. One was never used. I will try to list all I have Starting with the GraverMax unit itself with the air regulator and foot control kit. I have 3 hand pieces witch are all quick-change tool heads. The first is a model 710, this is a larger hand piece for hammering and deep engraving. The second is a model 901, seems to be the standard hand piece for all jobs. The third is a model 921 “monarch” This is the best hand piece that GRS has for ultra-fine engraving. There is also a GRS ultra 850 high-speed rotary hand piece witch spins between 300,000 and 400,000 rpm! The Ball Vise is a Magnablock that is heavy duty and again, has been used very little. It weighs in at 30lbs. And has a jaw opening of 3”. I also have the 30-piece vise attachment set for holding objects of every size and shape. This complete set will come with a bunch of quick disconnect tool holders and tooling. There is also a set of beading tools and a stipple tool. If I find anything I forgot to list I will be sure to put it in with the rest. This stuff all adds up to just under $3000.00 but I am willing to part with it for much less. Please e-mail me with your thoughts and if we can come to terms, I will be glad to ship this stuff right out to you. Again this is all you need to get started in this great art and it is all like new. I just wish I had more time to use it.
Mike <twodogs4@comcast.net>
(717)-867-2066 - Saturday, November 06, 2004 at 18:42:33 (EST)


handpiece, QC holders and (large) Victor engraving block. Great set-up for a beginning engraver or to upgrade your current set-up. Complete for : $850.00 Rick Simmons - handengraver@netzero.com
Rick Simmons <handengraver@netzero.com>
Gretna, La 70053 - Tuesday, November 02, 2004 at 12:40:38 (EST)


Sorry Laurie, I am not teaching that anymore. It is still available a few times a year. The curent instructor is Howard Peacock. The school is in Troy, NC(montgomery is the name of the county) I will try to find the link and post it here again.Take care, Tom
Tom McArdle <gravertom@aol.com>
- Saturday, October 30, 2004 at 22:28:14 (EDT)


Oopps, my finger slipped, I meant to say that he is "teaching" this course...
Laurie Cariseo <anette@peoplepc.com>
CT - Saturday, October 30, 2004 at 14:57:31 (EDT)


Thank you Marty I will give Ray a call on Monday. While searching through the archives for any information that will help me get going I came across a posting by Tom McArdle back in February of 2002 in reference to an on-line course he is seaching at the Montgomery Community College (in Alabama I presume?). I tried to look it up on the web to no avail. Does anyone have any idea if this course still exsists or another one of it's type? Thanks, Laurie
Laurie Cariseo <anette@peoplepc.com>
CT - Saturday, October 30, 2004 at 14:54:52 (EDT)


Hi All, I have a GRS ring light & .5 lens for a Meiji microscope for sale if anyone is interested. Am asking 225.00 for both pieces. Thanks and have a great day....
Chris Lowe <Chrislowe87@hotmail.com>
Burnt Hills , New York 518-399-0916 - Saturday, October 30, 2004 at 06:43:09 (EDT)


New person to the site. Hi,my name is Cliff Wightwick. I am an appreticeship served copperplate and steel hand engraver living in the UK. Been engraving now for 36 years. Have worked on gun restoration and endless jewellery of all descriptions. In the last few years I have started to engrave copperlates to recreate old gun case trade labels. Copying originals and printing them with an etching press etc. If any of this sounds interesting please contact me. Cheers Cliff.
cliff wightwick <cliff@wightwickclassic.wanadoo.co.uk>
truro, UK 01872 241960 - Friday, October 29, 2004 at 20:11:47 (EDT)


will become part of your cumulative skill as an engraver instantly. I know after 20 years of engraving that I am just still just starting to understand lettering itself. It's one thing to know how to engrave and another to know great lettering style. I started with the "chicken scratch" technique and eventually worked my way up to big bold brave cuts. Start very slow and shallow and over time your cuts will speed up. By making the lightest cuts possible in the beginning, you will avoid doing any serious harm and find yourself more in control. Why do in one cut what you can safely do in 20? Keep reworking the line till it's as deep as you want. And if the graver ever doesn't go where you want it, the tip is broke. Resharpening can be constant sometimes, especially on white gold. I didn't know how many tips I was breaking till I finally got a microscope and could see the busted tip. Sometimes a bran new tip can break just touching a tough metal. Like Tom says, Make the entry into engraving gradual in your business and beware the broken tip that is unstearable. Also finish the ends of the line first so the graver automatically stops when you get there. Good luck, James Roettger
James Roettger
Mpls., MN 612-340-0018 - Wednesday, October 27, 2004 at 00:05:28 (EDT)


I am trying to find a company in the Arizona or southwest area that can do high quality hot blue finish work for my engraved parts. Thanks Art
Art Gaudette <artg26@cox.net>
Phoenix, AZ 602-363-1763 - Tuesday, October 26, 2004 at 14:05:33 (EDT)


Laurie...give Ray Phillips a call and Ngraver co.he's in conn. like you are and he can get to set up with what you need and not what you don't need.There is a link under the sponsors section
Marty Rabeno
- Tuesday, October 26, 2004 at 12:52:19 (EDT)


Laurie, Grab a copy of James Meeks' "The art of Engraving" that will help with the basics of sharpening & I would suggest a graver with only a 45* face and then a polished heel. I started with a "bevel" graver and the heel was accomplished by polishing it on 4/0 paper(no sharpening equip necessary except a stone). But before you do anything get some more feedback and ideas from the board - These guys are very great! Best of Luck, Chris
Chris Lowe <
Chrislowe87@hotmail.com>
Burnt Hills , New York 518-399-0916 - Monday, October 25, 2004 at 19:32:12 (EDT)


I have been praticing my script letters with pencil on paper and am now ready to start practicing in the metal. What are the essential graver types and their numbers I need to order to use for script and whom would you suggest purchasing them from? Also, I will need a graver sharpener. Ilocated one on Brownells for $37.45, should I purchase this particular one or is there another type? Thank you all for your help. Laurie
Laurie <
anette@peoplepc.com>
Enfield, CT - Monday, October 25, 2004 at 11:05:37 (EDT)

 


FOR SALE**TURBO CARVER II W/SPRAY MIST**Brand New,hand accident has forced sale.For more infomation and pictures please e-mail me@ kreativekrafts@msn.com and I will be glad to answer all your question and send pictures if you like.Thanks Kathy
Kathy <
kreativekrafts@msn.com>
Boston, MA 781-599-3304 - Friday, October 22, 2004 at 19:33:25 (EDT)


my excess eqpt sale continues: i have the mechanical equivalent* of a Werther Panther Model P100/24AL air compressor- http://www.werther.com/werther/panther/products/3.html - on the block now (actually, mine has a bigger tank than the factory model) These units are very high quality clones of Jun-Airs, including most parts being completely interchangeable. They run about 25-30% less expensive than Jun-Airs, largely because they're made in Italy instead of Denmark, which means new Werthers are merely exhorbitant, not ridiculous. *I assembled this particular unit by combining two brand new, unused compressor heads from a surplus dental supply with a single control module, and mounted them on a brand new (NOT salvage) 200psi, 10 gal tank. It purrs like a kitten and will run a Gravermax at full throttle without breaking a sweat. Unit has less than a half hour running time during set-up and testing. Crankcases topped off with new, fresh Jun-Air SJ-27 oil -if you're familiar with these types of compressors you know the oil is expensive- about $25/qt- but lasts years under normal engraving use. New twin head Werther Panther models are about $1500 (Jun-Airs are over $2000) Originally built for my own use but I'm selling because I found a 3-head Jun-Air at a local auction. Make offer. Thanks.
mitch moschetti <
skettis1@bellsouth.net>
fletcher, nc 828-891-4305 - Friday, October 22, 2004 at 14:07:18 (EDT)


Howdy Folks, I just read the reply from Tom to the gent looking at a career change. Excellent advice Tom. I also just wanted to say that for the last 2 years I have frequented this sight and always found that the forum stuck to the topics concerning engraving (notwithstanding the spam spew that everyone has to deal with). I did not realize how nice that was until I had a silly little question for another forum to answer (ebay sellers forum). I figured that it was easier to ask people on that forum than to wait on a reply from the mother company. When I got into the forum I found that it was nothing like what I found at the engraver's forum. There was so much personality slamming, politics, and other topics that I could not get my question answered. Note that the moderator of the forum was as involved in the extraneous topics as the other participants. The above was going around my elbow to get to my tail end. Short version - Thank you for a well moderated excellent forum. I have always received an excellent answer from the truly professional people that participate here. Cudos my friends! D.C.
D.C. Lance <
dclance@cox.net>
Amarillo, TX 806-354-0087 - Friday, October 22, 2004 at 12:42:25 (EDT)

 


can you make an hour doing what you are doing now, and how much work do you have? If you want to expand into engraving, it can be a good move, but definitely should be a gradual one. A preliminary step might be to check with jewelers in your area, and see how much hand engraving they get done, and how they get it done. I started locally, then got up a website which has generated some business over the years. You will have to at least get some basic tools and give it a try. However, investing in the GRS,LindSay or Ngraver tools will help shorten the learning curve quite a bit. There will be a significant invest ment though. Just to let you know, lettering makes up a large part of nusiness right now, including on baby cups, inside rings,pendants, bracelets, etc. It will take awhile to get the practice and experience you need to become proficient, and to develop a client base. I wouls advise that your decision should depend on how badly you just want to do it. If you are enjkoying your current work and making a good living at it, why bother with hand engraving? However, if you want to diversify, and think you have, or will have, a passion for it, go ahead and pursue it. Some make a very good living at engraving, but they didn't get there overnight. I am now paying my bills exclusively through engraving now, but i didn't get here overnight either, and i consider myself very blessed to have the income i do from engraving. At this point in my career, there is no other thing i can do that would earn me the monmey i can make as an engraver, although i bet you make more at what you do that i do as an engraver. However, I love engraving, and would only give it up because of absolute necesity.Hope this gives you some food for thought. take care, Tom
Tom McArdle <
gravertom@aol.com>
- Thursday, October 21, 2004 at 19:28:54 (EDT)


Professional calligrapher needing some advice. I have been a calligrapher for about 12 years, being a calligrapher for the state of Utah, teaching art at a local college etc. A year ago I purchased a dentist drill and engrave on crystal etc. for Dillards etc. at 'signing events' but have become very aware that that is 'very basic' and 'crude' to what you do as true engravers. I spoke a little to J.C.Randall and Sam Welch. Great advice. My question. I am looking at really getting into the engraving business, not as hobby, but as a shift in my professional career. I have purchased the books "The Art of Engraving" and "The Jewelery Engravers Manual" and will pour over them several times. Spent many thousands of hours over the years doing calligraphy and various types of art. Is this a wise career move as I know that it will require well over a thousand hours of diligent practice as well as a considerable investment in order to do it the right way? I have been doing this type of thing, over-all, for about 45 years but this is an entirely new thing and I wonder what is the right thing to consider and do. I live in Salt Lake City, Utah and so am away from the hunting thing (knife and gun) but would consider other things. Can I get your advice on what to expect to have to do as well as the market since I am looking at it as a professional move and not simply as a hobby working out of 'the kitchen'? I have ordered the catalog from GRS Tools in Kansas and cannot afford to make a stupid career decision. I have been very fortunate in my career so far as my work is in many parts of the world but simply want to expand. Thanks for anything you can do to help me make a wise move or not make that move. Ron Tate
Ron Tate <
rbtclm@msn.com>
Sandy, Utah (801)572-0314 - Thursday, October 21, 2004 at 10:36:25 (EDT)


me for more information.
Joe Breecher <
joe-breecher@webtv.net>
Saginaw, MI 989-754-0777 - Wednesday, October 20, 2004 at 22:28:53 (EDT)


metal around the leaf to a lower level, leaving a 3 dimensional version of the leaf. I got an explaination of what I think is it, over on the knifemakers engraver forum, only the answer was from Spain, and the Spanish to English tranlsation is not real good, but I think if set down and work myself through it I will get it all figured out.
Scott Pilkington <
www.pilkguns.com>
- Tuesday, October 05, 2004 at 08:04:35 (EDT)


I`m looking fore a engraver stereo binaculer microscope with leight and a big engraving arear. Pleace contact me if you will sell it. With regard Ole Bøgelund Rasmussen Denmark Mail Boegelund@has.dk WWW.handgravering.dk msn group Danske gravører
Ole Bøgelund Rasmussen <
www.boegelund@has.dk>
hjoerring, denmark 004598903313 - Tuesday, October 05, 2004 at 07:27:34 (EDT)


Heather, you want a copy of the book "The Art of Engraving" by James B. Meek. Do a google search and you should find it. If not, do a search for Brownells. They sell gunsmithing supplies and also this book.
Sam
UT - Monday, October 04, 2004 at 21:57:54 (EDT)


I have found another permant marker with a fine tip.. It has a .1 tip and In my opionion a much stronger tip. ITOYA FINEPOINT SYSTEM. It is Japanese made. very nice
william <
billyjo@sleepyeyetel.net>
- Monday, October 04, 2004 at 06:56:01 (EDT)


JJ, You should talk to your friend Dennis, I bet he either can get the bearings for you, or make you a set if they are not available off the shelf. Mic them up and give him a call.
Dennis Potter <
Potter@execpc.com>
Muskego, WI - Sunday, October 03, 2004 at 22:56:50 (EDT)


I have the last engraving vise found at Winchester, In the custom shop. send e-mail for pic's asking $300.00
Don Pind <
dpind@aol.com>
Kansas City, Mo. 816.734.2991 - Sunday, October 03, 2004 at 08:45:45 (EDT)


Reply to Pilkington. The process you describe sounds like or is very similar to Intaglio etching. Asphaltum is used as a resist to the plate which is submerged in nitric acid for a time. The asphaltum has been scratched with a needle like instrument to produce the ink line artwork. The plate is then inked and run through a press. I have done different techniques using real pieces such as leaves and dusted rosin over it as a resist too. So you might check into some Intaglio technique books for further info. Otto
Otto Carter <
paintor@taylortel.net>
Abilene, TX 325-529-3941 - Saturday, October 02, 2004 at 20:59:26 (EDT)


hello, my husband wants to learn how to engrave guns. however, my search for information has been fruitless. any suggestions on books or websites or whatever to get the information into his hands?
heather <
whybanjowhy@juno.com>
versailles, ky - Saturday, October 02, 2004 at 15:32:58 (EDT)


I have a Victor engraving vise made by AD.Muehlmatt, Cinn.OH...does anybody have the bearings for this vice? The bearings are located in the lower part of the vise which makes the top turn...any help will be appreciated...JJ
JJ Roberts <
jjrengraver@aol.com>
- Saturday, October 02, 2004 at 09:24:37 (EDT)


cronites gelton transfer sheets work, confused in Minnesota....and thanks
billy jo <
billyjo@sleepyeyetel.net>
hanska, mn 507-439-6254 - Thursday, September 30, 2004 at 19:49:06 (EDT)


I am looking for an engraver who can hand engrave on silver a replica of a three page 3"x5" wedding ceremony program - preferably on a hinged silver display (similar to picture frame).
Charles McClenahan <
mcclenah@ix.netcom.com>
Winnetka, IL - Wednesday, September 29, 2004 at 10:36:14 (EDT)


Neil............ The Marlin is a neat little gun to engrave. If you can find an older one, all the better but even the newer ones are sweet. Good luck with it.
Marty Rabeno
- Tuesday, September 28, 2004 at 21:33:28 (EDT)


I'm going to ask this question again, but this time I'll be more specific. I need to get a new .22 rifle for my own use. I'd like to get one that I can engrave on. I'm leaning towards a Marlin 39 level action but I'd appreciate any advice as to what make would be a good gun for engraving. I am not experienced in steel or hammer technique. I do a lot of hand pushing through silver and gold, so I don't want something too hard.
Neil Hunt <
neiltori@nrhunt.com>
Crosslake, MN 218 763 1234 - Tuesday, September 28, 2004 at 09:44:23 (EDT)


While working on this engraving book, I have accumalated a number of things in relation to various techniques over the years. It seems I have forgotten a couple. My deepest apologies to whoever might have given me this stuff for forgetting who you were. _________________ Anyway, the first thing is the brass plate. This was done by some sort of etchant process. As I recall, this was done using real leaves. Something was done with wax, or some resist to the leaf, and then it was ate away with acid and then into the brass with leaf outline . It does appear that their is some actual engraving along the veins. But thats about all I know or can remember. _________________ The film was used in some sort of transfer process, I am quite sure I jewelry engraver showed it to me.. ( there are SO many ways to do transfers, I think I could do a whole book just on various transfer and layout methods) If you have any idea about either one of these processes or who might have given this to me, I would appreciate if you would contact me so that they get proper credit and the method gets preserved in print. __________ thanks Scott_____________ _________________ PS: the Posting Rules says I am not allowed to post attachments... don't know why, so here's the link. http://www.pilkguns.com/2004/brassfilm.jpg
Scott Pilkington <
www.pilkguns.com>
- Monday, September 27, 2004 at 14:48:07 (EDT)


Evnt. a rotating airhandpice from Lindsay. Is there someone there have somthing like this fore sale a litle bit chip but Ok. Im a Danish Handengraver one off the last in denmark. So i have wery litle kontact with other engravers . Please send my a note if you have something i nead fore sale. Ole Bøgelund Rasmussen Skagensvej 170 9800 Hjørring Web.www.handgravering.dk msn.group. Danske gravører and handengravers.
Ole Bøgelund Rasmussen <
boegelund@has.dk>
Hjørring, denmark 004598903313 - Monday, September 27, 2004 at 08:05:28 (EDT)


Description The last One at the Custom shop. Found in the Custom shop at Winchester Repeating Arms Company, New Haven , Conn. in 1993 before the old building came down. This block was the last one in the engraver area. The top of the vise is stamped with the Winchester proof stamp and the Custom shop proof stamp. sorry for the reserve price. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Select a picture
Don M. Pind <
dpind@aol.com>
kansas city, mo. 816.522.7463 - Sunday, September 26, 2004 at 19:02:57 (EDT)


I am about a year into constant practice. I couldnt afford schools or travel, so I have done what I could with what I had. Could someone tell me the best way to start lettering, what tapes,books, or internet site is the best for reference. My last question is, what is the best way to learn the right composition for the area you want to cover. Thank you all for any help you can offer. Jeff
Jeffrey howard <
hdr1@bellsouth>
- Sunday, September 26, 2004 at 13:32:10 (EDT)


Joe Mancini, I tried to e-mail, but it wouldn't go through. Let me know if i can be of service. Tom
Tom McArdle <
gravertom@aol.com>
- Saturday, September 25, 2004 at 23:30:26 (EDT)


I'm searching for a gun engraver who can re-engrave and/or restore engraving on Browning Auto 5 receivers. I would appreciate any info some of the FEGA members may be able to supply.
Joe Mancini <
realswingdancing@yahoo.com>
Syracuse, NY 13206 (315)432-9905 - Thursday, September 23, 2004 at 19:50:03 (EDT)


for sale: Olympus SZ-III w/ 10x eyepieces and 0.5x objective lens in excellent condition. (cherry, one owner! still have original packaging and manual) also included is a Leica "S" model stand, 15" vertical post, 22" reach, modified to fit custom mount for Olympus scope. total new value over $1500- make offer. avoid the uncertainty of eBay, buy from a fellow engraver who has used this set-up and obviously knows what works.
mitch moschetti <
skettis1@bellsouth.net>
fletcher, nc - Monday, September 20, 2004 at 10:43:40 (EDT)


Hi everyone New to the forum. I just found this forum, and find everyones comments interesting. I am into glass etching. I have a great machine I use. I am new at this as well. I bought a Turbo Carver II w/ Spray Mist a complete system about a year ago with the extra. I have never used this engraving system. Is there someone out there with comments. about this system. About 6 weeks ago I had a hand accident and I believe it would be best that I just continue my business without the engraving segment. Any helpful hint or moments. Also I would consider selling this engraving set-up if anyone was interested. Any suggestions, comments would gladly be accepted. Thanks Kathy Any helpful hints
Kathy <
etchitonglass@yahoo.com>
Boston, MA - Thursday, September 16, 2004 at 19:41:25 (EDT)


NEEDED FOR GUILD EXHIBITION We would like to computerize registration at the Guilds' exhibition - "Firearms Engravers & Gunmakers Exhibition." If you have a used laptop you are willing to donate - please contact me at (307) 587-4297. We need at least two laptops, PC compatible, with at least Windows 95 for an operating system. This would save the guilds' a big expense - and would be genuinely appreciated. Jan Billeb, Exhibition Coordinator, 22 Vista View, Cody, WY 82414 (307) 587-4297
Jan Billeb <
acgg@acgg.org>
Cody, WY - Tuesday, September 14, 2004 at 18:42:34 (EDT)


the markers will write on any degreased surface, glass, plastic, any kind of metal. I try to be real careful with the tips though, if you try to write too hard with them, they will get smushed and then you will get a bigger writing surface. the Staedtlers seem to be more prone to this than the Sakura's but they will do it to. I try not to let inexperineced people use them, cause they write too hard
Scott Pilkington
- Wednesday, September 08, 2004 at 21:01:39 (EDT)


Scott, Are the markers ok for sterling, nickel, copper, etc.? Thanks, D.C.
D.C. Lance <
dtlance@cox.net>
Amarillo, TX 806/354-0057 - Wednesday, September 08, 2004 at 19:22:09 (EDT)


Allan, I can't imagine using a scribe for letter layouts anymore. I use a red to draw my horizantal lines for the caps and the lowercases letters,and the then use a red or blue to layout the letters_______as the GRS class, that July class was for this year, GRS is currently working on next years schedule, which is supposed to be done sometime in October which is a big job considering all the intructors personal scheudles, GRS show schedules etc, But as to your question I am sure you would do fine on this interemidate level class
Scott Pilkington <
www.pilkguns.com>
- Wednesday, September 08, 2004 at 10:37:47 (EDT)


Scott, Thanks for the tip about the markers. I do a lot of sterling trays and it sounds like a great alternative to the steel scribe. I see you are teaching a knife engraving class in July and I am thinking of registering, even if it does mean Emporia in the middle of the summer. Is this for any level of experience and what kind of things do you think you will be covering. Thanks
Allan
- Tuesday, September 07, 2004 at 22:25:27 (EDT)


William, I gave up using pencils 15 years ago. You need to got to a good art supply store, and look for some fine point permament markers. The only two brands that I know of are SAKURA Microperm (japanese made) and Staedtler Permanent Lumocolor (german made) The Sakura is made in sizes 01-05 and the Staedtler is made in S, M, L. You want to get the S or the 01. They are both available in the normal colors. ---Sharpie markers available everywhere, in their ULTRA FINE POINT, are way too big, they are equivalent or bigger than the 05 or L in the Sakura or the Staedtler.----- You will need to degrease the surface with rubbing alcohol before you write on the steel, but it will stay there until you either sand it off, engrave through it or use alcohol to remove it. You might buy the FEGA tape that I did in February about scroll design and theory and its use throughout history for more info on these markers and scroll design. Chris DeCamillus's tape on bulino is also an excellant tape and part of the set.-----Oh, and while you are at the art supply store you will find 100's of diffrent looking fine point markers that look like they should work, but they are not permanent, a simple test is write on your fingernail and then immediately try to rub it off with your finger . If it smears, you don't want it.
Scott Pilkington <
www.pilkguns.com>
Monteagle, TN - Monday, September 06, 2004 at 13:23:48 (EDT)


hello, im an aprentist hand engraver, i have currently just finished my City & Guilds advance (credit) and i want to either get into the gun or jewelery hand engraving in america as the British market is slow at the moment, so any advice on how to get into the american market would be greatly welcomed, please feel free to eamil me, thank you
Alun Watjyn Evans <
evans_alun2001@yahoo.com>
London, England - Monday, September 06, 2004 at 09:23:16 (EDT)


HELP!! Please!!! i am trying to get some information on how to draw very small scrolls and or patterns on revolvers. I would like to know if anyone else has this problem, I have tried different kinds of lead pencils up to 9h which can be used for a very long time but,,,it does not copy well at all on metal. As far as printers go I am not aquanted with laser printers, can a person scan what he has sketched and then use a laser printer to transfer the pattern to the revolver? Ohthers have tried to help me on this but with little progress on MY part only, Is there a felt tip mareker that has a micro fine tip a person can use,,,very lost in Minnesota, Thank you all, I appreciate your help.
william colebank <
billyjo@sleepyeyetel.net>
USA - Monday, September 06, 2004 at 08:53:38 (EDT)


I'm looking for advice as to what kind of 22 I should get for my own use. I am currently keeping busy engraving on silver and gold and have no real plans to get into guns ( we're all specialists these days ). As it happens I need to get a new 22 and figured I might as well get one that I could engrave. I would gladly take advice as to what a beginer to guns should start with...Good gun but not too hard.
Neil Hunt <
neiltori@nrhunt.com>
Crosslake, MN 56442 - Thursday, September 02, 2004 at 20:56:00 (EDT)


Hi, I am new to engraving and would like to know what kind of tools I can use to carve patterns on pvc (pvc pipe). thank you
k <
drago1nangel@yahoo.com>
chicago, il - Wednesday, September 01, 2004 at 17:08:31 (EDT)


Sorry for the "down time" on the forum. There was some of the code messed up. Things are fixed now.
Rex Pedersen
- Tuesday, August 31, 2004 at 16:46:54 (EDT)


$100.00 Drawing. Just a reminder that if you are planing o making a donation of an item for the 2005 Auctions/Raffle fundraiser You may as well get the info to me by Sept. 15th 2004 and be eligable for the $100.00 Early Bird donation drawing. So far the odd are very good. This drawing is open to all FEGA & ACGG members making a donation of $50.00 or more. This is not for the commercial exhibitors, they already gat a prize. I need to have the pledge by 9/15/2004. See the ENGRAVER issue 63 page 6 for more info Mail e-mail or call. Roger Sampson CoChairman 2005 Auctions/raffle Fudraiser
Roger Sampson <
rsampson@ecenet.com>
Mora, mn 55051 320 679 4868 - Tuesday, August 31, 2004 at 16:37:09 (EDT)


I have got 15 handgravers(13 never used),crocker sharpener and the 'art of hand engraving' by Jmaes B meek.offers,I am in the uk so posage to the usa ect will be extra.e-mail if interested
ian <
tp001b8050@blueyonder.co.uk>
uk - Thursday, August 26, 2004 at 05:01:20 (EDT)


this story about Ngraver company owner Ray Phillips and his "NEW" bicycle... http://www.norwichbulletin.com/news/stories/20040819/localnews/1074661.html
Scott Pilkington
- Friday, August 20, 2004 at 23:41:49 (EDT)

 


Thanks Tim and all you others who have written to me about choosing the best engraving system. You have given me a lot to think about...but I do believe I now know which one to choose...my original gut feeling....I am glad you have reinforced it. Thank you for all your help. Jill E.
Jill E. <
mantis@kent.net>
- Sunday, August 15, 2004 at 22:15:43 (EDT)


Jill E, I was in the same spot not too long ago, it can be confusing to weigh all the features of each. What it boils down to is, either will do the job you want to do. The GRS unit is made to get people engraving as soon as possible, they offer pre shaped gravers that fit their handles. It is well made and will do any of the engraving you want to do. But the Lindsay AirGraver is made by hand, one at a time, and in my humble opinion is the best on the market. And Steve has addressed issues with his tool that others have not given thought to. You can now get a handle for the AirGraver that has all the control in the handle, no foot pedal. This is good for people that have difficulty using a foot pedal, like with a handicap. But the “Palm-push” handle also solves a problem that is an issue with every power graver out there, how do you operate a foot pedal while using a “Stand-up Engraving post”. It is hard to stand on one foot and use a foot pedal, with the new handle you have this solved. Many engravers working on long guns prefer to stand, so they can move around the barrel. If GRS had invented this idea, would they have made it to fit the existing tools out there, or would they have made a whole new tool and charged for it. Steve made the new handle to fit all of the tools out there, so you don’t have to throw everything out and start over. Steve cares about the people that have invested in his tools, he wants to help them to improve in the engraving arts, not just how much he can get them to spend. That’s the real difference in the two manufacturers, it’s your choice from there. When you are ready to start to buy your equipment, send me an email, I have found some suppliers that are cheaper for the everyday stuff you will use that can save you some money. Be sure to put “FEGA” in the subject so I don’t delete it. For classes, check out Jewelry Art School, much cheaper then GRS and he has both tools to try out. GRS has told me that I can’t bring my AirGraver to a class, that kicked them off my list, I don’t need to pay that kind of money to get a sales pitch for a week. Brain Marshall is a great person to teach you what you will need to know. Good Luck, Tim metalchipper@aol.com
Tim Clark <
metalchipper@aol.com>
Miami, Fl - Saturday, August 14, 2004 at 09:46:14 (EDT)


I'm new to engraving and am trying to decide whether to get a GRS Graver Max or one of Lyndsay's tools. I need to know which is better...as I am wanting to learn to do deep relief and bulino and those nice carved leaf scrolls...and some lettering. I guess I covered it all....and have any of you found any drawbacks to either products. Thank you.
Jill E. <
mantis@kent.net>
- Friday, August 13, 2004 at 23:13:05 (EDT)


I had better luck today with the transfer of inkjet printed acetate onto sterling. I again put down a just opaque fresh layer of white gouache then I took my acetate freshly printed from the epson 2500 using the draft setting for a minimal ink layer and very carefully, without smudging the slightly still wet ink positioned it with scotch tape. Then I took a wooden burnisher and rubbed it with no acetone this time. As I was rubbing it I could see the black ink turn grey where I had burnished it. When I removed it I had a perfect image. I could see ever pixel of the print. The image was completely ready for scribing. Moral of the story is I spent a whole day learning how to save myself two days worth of layout work.
James Roettger
Minneapolis, MN 612-340-0018 - Friday, August 13, 2004 at 21:08:06 (EDT)


i all most forgot a good thing about this method is you can pickup and check to see how your design is tranfering.just put some tape on one side of your transparency and add heat until you get the tranfer you want.but like i said watch out for the hot metal. laters Curt
Curt Hanson
Hilo, Hawaiii a - Friday, August 13, 2004 at 13:15:31 (EDT)


Hay, Tom whats up, James,if you are going to try the heat method make sure the metal is very clean. i use acetone first then finish cleaning with alcohol. then start the heat transfer.i use a 3m transparency film made for lazer printers.i know they make for inkjets to.before i got my lazer i used transparency film made by 3m the # was 3mppm2200 but it is made i think only for copiers. well i hope this helps. Curt
Curt Hanson
Hilo, Hawaii - Friday, August 13, 2004 at 13:01:33 (EDT)


I sometmes still scribe a design in acetate, and then put some fine black powder in the scribe marks, and then use clear tape to make a pull. I will put the pull down on a mixture of grease and bees wax, or tacky damar varnish. I used to do all my transfers this way, and still do script monograms this way, as I can draw them faster by hand then on the computer. Tom ps Curt, good to see you!:)
Tom McArdle <
gravertom@aol.com>
- Friday, August 13, 2004 at 08:22:35 (EDT)


like Tom i use a lazer printer to do my transfers. mostly i use paper to make my transfers. i do use acetate sometimes if i really need to see the placement of a design. but most times the paper transfer works fine. to get a good transfer useing acetate .i have found it take heat and lots of it. i use a iron set on the cotton setting.it will take sometime to find out how long to leave the iron on to get best transfer. but just keep trying.... i learned one thing paper is a lot better way to do transfers. but if you are going to do acetate transfers WATCH OUT FOR THE HOT METAL.....
Curt Hanson
Hilo, Hawaii - Friday, August 13, 2004 at 03:12:12 (EDT)


Hi I just wanted to drop a quick note to thank Roger Sampson for the time and effort he took to teach a 1 week class on 'Hammer and Chisel' engraving.It is so helpfull when those that are educated in these skills give the information so freely! I forget who said it but "You can't steal talent, it has to be earned." Thanks again.
Chad McDaniel <
pooder@grantsburgtelcom.net>
Grantsburg, WI 715-463-3855 - Friday, August 13, 2004 at 02:53:45 (EDT)


Fred and Tom thanks for your replys. Fred when you scribe through the at the end I am not sure I understand how the image is transfering to the metal. Do you just press hard on the transparency and it leaves a mark on the metal or do you poke a series of dots through? I did got the overhead projector plastic transparency and regular acetate, The stuff made for inkjet printers held on to its' ink and did not transfer to the metal when I rubbed the back side with acetone. However today I was able to transfer an image on to sterling coated with a thin layer of white guoache using regular acetate with the image printed in reverse on an old epson 2500. I taped the image in place and rubbed the back side with acetone on a Q-tip. A faint but clear image appeared and I touched it up here and there with a pencil. The coating of guoache made a receptive surface which helped prevent smearing. I printed the image on the matt side of the acetate. I used three diferent printers, one with new none water soluble and two with water soluble ink and only one type of water soluble ink succeeded in transfering. It would seem the type of ink is everthing. Any other tips would still be appreciated. Thanks
James Roettger
Minnneapolis, MN 612-340-0018 - Friday, August 13, 2004 at 00:14:36 (EDT)


On accetate-If you go to the office supply store you can purchase accetate designed for laser of injet. They are used to make overhead transpartences, you can scribe the lines, flip them over and scribe fro that side. The print shop should have told you about print overheads, I'd find a printer who knows his business-fred
Fred Marrinan <
rrrf68@bellsouth.net>
Albany, GA - Thursday, August 12, 2004 at 10:09:41 (EDT)


James, I have used acetate to make the reverse image of a design, but then a paper copy of that reverse image must be made on a copier for the transfer to work. I would think if you use acetate that is rated for laser printers, you should not have any problems. The easier way is to have a program that will produce reverse images for you, and a laser printer to print them out. then you don't need the acetate at all. I use corel draw,but also my HP scanner has a mirror option when accepting the scan into the computer. Take care, Tom
Tom McArdle <
gravertom@aol.com>
- Thursday, August 12, 2004 at 08:07:55 (EDT)


I am interested in learning about acetate transfers of images as I am finding that computers can be of assistance in laying out images and fonts. I did some experimenting and I can get a faint and somewhat fuzzy transfer from an inkjet printer on acetate which then rubs off when acetone is applied to the back side with a cotton swab. I went to some print shops to see about getting them to print it and kind of got the run around. (They were really just afraid the stuff would melt in there machines and ruin them.) One shop directed me to a store that has an inkjet that can print on t-shirts. One experiment with printing on acetate clogged up our newest epson printer but left the older models ok. any help would be appreciated. Thanks
James Roettger
Minneapolis, Mn 612-340-0018 - Wednesday, August 11, 2004 at 22:54:26 (EDT)


I am interested in learning about acetate transfers of images as I am finding that computers can be of assistance in laying out images and fonts. I did some experimenting and I can get a faint and somewhat fuzzy transfer from an inkjet printer on acetate which then rubs off when acetone is applied to the back side with a cotton swab. I went to some print shops to see about getting them to print it and kind of got the run around. (They were really just afraid the stuff would melt in there machines and ruin them.) One shop directed me to a store that has an inkjet that can print on t-shirts. One experiment with printing on acetate clogged up our newest epson printer but left the older models ok. any help would be appreciated. Thanks
James Roettger
Minneapolis, Mn 612-340-0018 - Wednesday, August 11, 2004 at 22:54:20 (EDT)


news
news- <
news->
- Wednesday, August 11, 2004 at 03:35:05 (EDT)


ok thanks scott, much appreciated,
william <
billyjo@sleepyeyetel.net>
- Tuesday, August 10, 2004 at 21:18:05 (EDT)


The best way to remove barrels is an oak formed jaw with rosin, but unless you are expereinced in removing barrels, I would absolultely not do it yourself especially on pistols. pay a real gunsmith to do it, its much cheaper than trying fix a warped frame or repairing marred lettering
Scott Pilkington <
www.pilkguns.com>
- Tuesday, August 10, 2004 at 20:58:38 (EDT)


What is the correct method of taking barrels off of pistols? I was told to use brass jaws in my vice and also to use rosin. Is there a better way? I don't want to mar anything as i am quite leary of taking off the barrels
william <
billyjo@sleepyeyetel.net>
hanska, mn 507-439-6254 - Tuesday, August 10, 2004 at 19:30:58 (EDT)


vise similiar to the one used by Lynton McKinsey and shown on his video instruction tape. Since he modified the vise shown on the tape, I really only need the machinist vise and the adjustable ball part. Please contact me at artg26@cox.net
Art Gaudette <
artg26@cox.net>
Phoenix, AZ 480-460-2464 - Sunday, August 01, 2004 at 19:36:07 (EDT)


Hello This is a note to tell you new engravers who are looking for a good scope, cheap cheap cheap. There is an Olympus SZ for sale on EBAY. It will sell on Aug. 6 or it says it can be bought now for $195.00 This is an unbelieveable price. This is one of the best scopes ever made. It has an objective lens that will give it 6 inches of working distance which Is great for most engraving and background stamping. This Stereo Zoom Scope is Guaranteed Even. Only setback is it does not have a light with it or a Boom Stand but a 100W bulb and a gooseneck light will suffice for the light and you can make a boom stand for less than $100 or if you can't, I can make you one. I made mine and I have one of these scopes that I bought from EBAY and I paid more for mine too. It is a great scope with zoom up to 40X If you are interested in this great scope Type in EBAY in your Search and then go to Electronics and such and click on it and when it comes up Type in 3831031921 If you want a scope don't miss this one. Call or Email me if you need help finding it.
Charlie Glackman <
Longline@lightbound.com>
Fairland, IN 46126 317-835-2650 - Saturday, July 31, 2004 at 23:42:51 (EDT)


Hi Neil____ I am little unsure what you mean that you are "interested in script engraving of guns." Script or lettering of any sort, is typically a small part of the overall amount time spent doing engraving work on a firearm. Scrollwork and Games Scenes will normally alway be your biggest time consumer. If you are interested doing gun work, you will learn some quick basics of letterings in the GRS basic classes, but the biggest emphasis is learning to use the tools and sharpen the gravers correctly which translates into whatever style of engraving you choose to concentrate on.
Scott Pilkington <
www.pilkguns.com>
- Friday, July 30, 2004 at 16:54:53 (EDT)


I am interested in script engraving of guns and will be taking my first class with GRS this October, 2004. Is script/letter engraving a seperate item or part of gun engraving? Sorry for my ignorance, this is new to me. Sorry for my
Neil Amondson <
uncleneil@comcast.net>
Centralia, WA 360.736.2772 - Friday, July 30, 2004 at 11:40:54 (EDT)


Hello all, I have been testing a sharpening fixture by Les Brooks.(minigun17@yahoo.com). If you are familiar with the crocker style sharpening fixtures, you will have some idea of what it is like. However, Les' tool removes the disadvantages of those fixtures. His tool has calibrated markings for face and heel angles, as well as a means for adjusting the fixture to compensate for diferent tool bit lengths. This means the angles are always valid, regardless of the variations in tool bit length. Another advantage is that Les' fixture has rollers on the base, so it is easy to move the fixture when sharpening the tool bits. If you don't have a power sharpening system yet, I would recommend you contact Les at the above e-mail. I have found His tool to be very well made, and a great improvement in time / accuracy over the crocker sharpener I had been using. Although the final cost has not been yet determined, it seems that it will be significantly less than the GRS dual angle fixture. This tool does not have all the markings that the GRS fixture has, and does not seem to be intended as a replacement for it. perhaps Les could adapt the design for use with a power hone for those who do not have the dual angle fixture already, but I would think the the GRS product would be better for the power hone setup. Since proper tool sharpening is especially critical for beginners, as well as the rest of us, this fixture is especially intended as an aid to help beginners make progress intially with less of a cash outlay. Les is very easy to deal with, and can send pictures of the fixture to you if you are interested. I am so impressed with it that I am sending him a check so I can keep the one he sent me. I will probably still want to get a power hone someday, but with this new fixture, and the pre ground tool bits available today, it is no longer a critical issue right now. I hope some of you getting started, or who are not yet set up with a power sharpening system will contact Les and give his fixture a try. I am certainly benefitting from it more than he is from the Sale. Talk to you all soon, Tom
Tom McArdle <
gravertom@aol.com>
- Friday, July 30, 2004 at 10:27:31 (EDT)


Steve Lindsay just sent me the first of his recently patented “palm controllers” to try out last week! Designed to fit on his Air Chasing and Classic tools, this new improvement makes the foot pedal obsolete. Basically what he has done, is to take all of the parts that are contained in his standard foot control – shrunk them, and stuffed them inside the handle of the tool. This palm control handle will be available to fit on all of his previous tools except the Omega version. Just twist off the old handle and twist on the palm control. Connect the tubing directly to your air compressor regulator. Set it for 40 – 45 lbs. of pressure and go to work. ALL of the control is now in the handle, length of stroke as well as the power of the impact. You need never reach for controls with your arms or legs again! For me this will help a LOT – having had two crushed ankles from some years back, and the recent damage to my shoulder. I now engrave with a sling hung from a cord and spring arrangement - hung from the ceiling… While this isn’t fun or comfortable, I get by… Instead of pressing on the pedal to get the tool to respond, you simply push lightly on the graver. The “feel” of traditional palm pushed gravers with all the advantages of a power assist! I gotta admit old habits die hard, and I found myself feeling around on the floor for the foot pedal quite often. It also takes a little time to become tuned in with this tool. Again I think that this has to do with habits you acquire over the years. (I've been using foot controls for 28 years now.)It couldn’t be caused by getting old could it? A beginner or a peron who normally palm pushed a graver would not have to overcome these habits. After about 6 hours I felt comfortable and confident with this amazing new technology. I have made no adjustments to the tool since it arrived. The settings that it arrived with are perfect for a wide variety of engraving and stone setting, but Steve tells me that it can be further fine tuned to a particular person’s style or a particular job or technique. I only wish that these had been around 30 years ago. Might have saved me those 3 carpal tunnel and 2 elbow release surgeries… I will submit a review accompanied by photos for the FEGA Engraver in the next week or so. Anyone who wants to try this new palm controller is welcome to stop by my studio. Please phone ahead of time. I don’t sell any tools here, just practice materials and graver blanks. You can contact Steve at his website for the official release date & price. (Lindsayengraving.com)
Brian Marshall <
instructor@jewelryartschool.com>
Stockton, CA 209-477-0550 - Thursday, July 29, 2004 at 18:00:56 (EDT)


hi all has anyone in the room got a copy on vhs or cd rom off how to engrave for begginers or anything that could help me become a better engraver,I will pay any postage cheers
ian <
tp001b8050@blueyonder.co.uk>
st helens, uk - Thursday, July 29, 2004 at 07:25:11 (EDT)


Have your jewlery burrs recutt. Notify Joe-breecher@webtv.net for details.
joe breecher <
joe-breecher@webtv.net>
Saginaw, MI 989-754-0777 - Wednesday, July 28, 2004 at 17:33:16 (EDT)


My heart inside out-------- Hello everyone, This is to let you know about my recent medical condition and the future. I am currently at home recovering from open heart surgery where I had my aortic valve replaced with a mechanical valve (St. Jude style) last week, Thursday July 22nd. I am doing amazingly well. I know that to some of you this will be a total surprise, but truly we did not see the situation as being serious enough to warrant public broadcast until now. ------------------------------------------------------------- Five months ago (February of 2004) I had a physical in anticipation of my upcoming 40th birthday. The doctor doing the physical spent an extraordinary amount of time listening to my heart, finally resulting in his statement, “Your heart sounds terrible, you need to see a cardiologist right away.” I was aware that I had heart murmur (leaking valve) since birth but it had never been an issue in any physical activity and honestly I had no indications that anything was wrong now other than this strong verbal pronouncement. I did follow-up, the same day in fact, with an ultrasound of my heart, which resulted in a chart of numbers that was beyond my ability to interpret. I faxed them off to the only real heart specialist I was acquainted with, Dr. Mike Petracek a heart surgeon from Nashville that I knew was one of the best in country. I really knew Mike through his wife Connie Petracek, a US Shooting Team member who had been on the ’92 and ’96 Olympic Teams, and had been one the top pistol shooters when she was competing. ------------------------------------------------------------ Mike indicated the results showed the leakage was beyond an acceptable level, and had started to enlarge (damage) the heart but was very minor at this point. We ultimately did some more testing but the upshot was that I should plan to have the valve replaced while my heart was still overall very healthy, sometime within the next 12 months, to keep it healthy. So we did some figuring of my scheduled events of 2004 (engraving, shooting events, National Guard stuff etc, and picked July 22 as the day to do it with the following 12 week recovery time. ----------------------------------------------------------- Well, we did the deed last Thursday and I can’t say enough about Mike. Mike has surgeons from all the US and the world who come to learn from him and he has gone overseas including China to teach his heart surgery techniques. Its funny he made a comment about surgeons that I see of engravers and shooters as well, that rang very true to me. He said that most surgeons have the ability to cut and sew, but very few have the ability to visualize the overall project and how it will come out in the end. They spend too much time worrying about how it will come it while there are doing it, rather than having that assurance that it will come out as intended, which is of course detrimental to the final product. ------------------------------------------------------------ Rhonda had stayed with Mike and Connie during my surgery and been helping Connie pick and can the vegetables from Connie’s huge garden., something Rhonda would normally be doing at our house this time of year anyway. Connie was glad for the help and Rhonda was happy to have something to occupy her mind other than thinking about me. By Saturday afternoon the 24th, I was doing well enough to be checked out of the hospital, and go home with Mike to let him monitor me from his house. What a real treat to discover that Mike was gourmet cook as well, I was eating fantastically prepared buffalo, elk, and red fish from the Gulf along with all the fresh veggies from the garden over the next few days, Wow! It amazed that I could be doing so well 3 days after surgery, including walking up and down 2 flights of stairs on a regular basis. Don’t get me wrong, I am still sore, tired, groggy at times, and of course I am on various medications at the moment, to include some pain stuff, but overall I am doing really well all things considered, Fantastic really. ------------------------------------------------------------ I expect a complete recovery, with 12 weeks being required for the breastbone to knit back together where it was sawn in half. I got home yesterday, and will continue to walk and do everything within limits to hasten my recovery. Probably even do some engraving in the next week or so. ------------------------------------------------------------ If you want to send me an e-mail that’s fine, the computer is where I will be spending the bulk of my time the next few weeks. If you feel the need to send flowers, I would much prefer that you make a donation in that amount to USA Shooting, One Olympic Plaza, Colorado Springs, CO 80909. www.usashooting.com ------------------------------------------------------------ Anyway I consider myself very fortunate to have friends like Mike and Connie, and friends like you. You all are a very important part of who I am. --------- My Best wishes to all of you, Scott
Scott Pilkington <
www.pilkguns.com>
- Wednesday, July 28, 2004 at 12:25:22 (EDT)


to write. get the :jewelry Engravers manual"by Hardy. There are a lot of different ways to engrave lettering, and the size matters too. A square, and coople of small rounds, and a couple of narrow flats will get you going. take are, Tom
Tom McArdle <
gravertom@aol.com>
- Monday, July 26, 2004 at 18:54:19 (EDT)


Simple question, hard to put into words. What number graver do I use for script engraving,block lettering,old english, etc... I am confused since there are so many different gravers and numbers. What are the basic numbers I need to start out with and when do I use that number with what font. Also should I get them from GRS or some other vendor? Presently I am using a flat 38, is this right? Thanks for your help!!! Laurie
Laurie <
anette@peoplepc.com>
Enfield, CT - Monday, July 26, 2004 at 13:29:32 (EDT)


Hi Brian, Sorry I got on a roll this morning, I should have checked what I was writing, it is rather long isn't it. M. E. in my case stands for Mechanical Engineer but I have been a utility manager for the last 15 years, retired/disabled. I guess my wife is right about my hot air content. Safety has always been a prime concern in either field, and it will get me going in a minute. I was injured 3 years ago in an auto accident and I found myself with a lot of time on my hands in between surgeries. I was looking at a magazine one day and admiring a engraved double barreled shotgun, I said to myself “I wish I had the time to learn how to do that”, then I realized I had the time. At the time I had nerve damage in my right arm and both legs, so I had to be creative about how I got into it. Ask Steve Lindsay, he was sure I was out of my mind. But 3 years later and I love it, I wake up thinking about getting to the bench and what I want to try out doing today. I’ve yet to try to engrave a gun yet, but it will come. I’ve filled up enough space on this board, thank you all for the info you provide. Have a great week. Is there a phone number for the FEGA office that I can call? Thanks Tim Clark
Tim Clark <
metalchipper@aol.com>
Miami, Fl. - Sunday, July 25, 2004 at 21:23:03 (EDT)


Hi Tim, Thanks for expounding more on the shop safety issues. I'm curious about the M.E.? Was that Mechanical Engineer or Medical Examiner?
Brian Marshall <
instructor@jewelryartschool.com>
Stockton, CA 95209 209-477-0550 - Sunday, July 25, 2004 at 20:20:03 (EDT) Sunday, July 25, 2004 at 20:17:52 (EDT)


Mr. Marshall is absolutely correct, the real dangers in your shop are the ones you don’t see. An air compressor is one of the worst things you can use to clean your shop/bench. Always use a damp rag to wipe down dust from your hone and cuttings on and around your bench. The materials used in the engraving trade are far more dangerous then most people know, but it is often the other products we use to complete a project that are the real danger, cleaning solvents, hardwood dust, Titanium dust, Ivory dust, metal chips from alloys, and glues. These dangers are as a result of what we are making at the time, and as a result, the materials we work on often change from job to job. You might be cutting titanium one day, then working on hardwoods the next. On a nice spring day you might want to open the doors and windows and let the breeze blow through the shop, think of all the projects and materials you have used in the shop since you last opened the doors, that is what is blowing around in your shop now. I was an M.E. for 30+ years in my previous life, and worked as a tool and die maker when I was younger going to school. Here’s some tips I have learned over the years working with machinery and safety, I’m sure many of you already know them, but for those that don’t: 1. CLEAN YOUR WORK AREA EVERY DAY OR WHEN YOU CHANGE PROJECTS. Use a wet/damp mop to sweep your floors, not a push broom and wear a mask when doing it. I keep a clean wet rag in a shallow bowl right next to my bench with a bottle of machine oil, I wipe down my bench, vise, turntable and power hone 3 to 4 times a day. A hose works on the shop floors if you are set up with drains and can do it, but keep the pressure low on any nozzle you use and don’t try to blast the dust out. If you have to vacuum, use long hoses and place the vacuum outside or by a open door with a fan blowing the air passed the vacuum and out of the breathing space. 2. Change rags every day or when changing materials like brass to silver to stainless. This also helps in saving shavings for the foundry to recycle your gold and silver. 3. Always wear a mask when wiping down or cleaning, wash your hands before and after. 4. Wash your shop clothes separately from your other clothes they have the dust in them too. An apron will help keep the dust on your clothes to a minimum, but now you have to remember to wash your apron. And watch that apron around machinery, you don’t want to get pulled into a spinning tool. Shirt tails out and long sleeve’s are a no-no in any shop with spinning tools. For this reason I am also careful about when to wear gloves or not, depending on the tool you are working with. 5. Keep a box of rags and a bucket of water, if you don’t have a sink in your shop, it will make wiping down a habit if you do it a lot. Of course with metal objects use some oil to protect the steel. 6. If you have kids, don’t let them into your shop unless they wear a mask. And make them take a shower after, kids put their fingers in their mouths, and they usually do it after touching something. WASH YOUR HANDS 7. When you come home at night, don’t hug your kids until you are clean, this is hard since the kids want a hug as soon as you get home, don’t give in. Some of the saddest cases are of kids that just were exposed to hazardous materials such as asbestos and lead from their fathers working as auto mechanics. 8. Learn what is safe to use and what is not, solvents and cleaners are very dangerous and can cause serious problems when mixed, read the MSDS sheets for any product. Be alert to dangers that are around you. One of the worst accidents I investigated involved two crews working in a trench together, one crew was working cutting a ductile iron pipe with a circular saw, the other was gluing a PVC pipe to a coupling mounted to the ductile pipe 25 feet away, but in the same trench. The fumes from the glue ignited with the dust from the ductile pipe inside the pipe, ductile iron pipe contains magnesium which is used to align the molecules of the steel, making the steel tougher to break, and resistant to bending. The ignition resulted in a metal fire that killed everyone in the trench, 8 closed caskets. And by the way, very few fire extinguishes will put out a “metal fire”. If you think you don’t need to think about this problem because you don’t work on ductile pipe, think again, do you work with springs? I’m sure you have heard of people making knives out of truck leaf springs? Was that knife your engraving made that way, do you know? Think about how a knife blade gets tough and hardened to 58-60 rc at the same time, check the charts for ATS 34 or 440, although in smaller amounts. The build-up of dust could present a problem, why take a chance. And don’t even get me started on titanium, keep titanium wet at all times when grinding, and dispose of the dust in a slurry form in a separate bag from the rest of your garbage. Don’t let the dust get airborne it can ignite very easily. 9. If you smoke, don’t do it in the shop, not for the fire danger, though that is a big problem. You are taking a cigarette and touching it to your lips with your DUSTY hands, you flick the ash with your dusty thumb. WASH YOUR HANDS 10. When you think that you have cleaned everything within an inch of it’s life, until only the paint can come off next, you are about 50% done cleaning. 11. WASH YOUR HANDS, AND DO THIS OFTEN. This should be number 1., but I’m not going to re-number this message. It’s not that I’m a cleaning nut, it is the safety that is what I’m talking about, and what is important. When dust is the problem only cleaning can help solve that problem. It’s hard to work in a “well ventilated area” and still keep dust from becoming airborne, that’s where wiping down can help. A tip on ventilation, it is also a preferred method of ventilation to force clean air into a space then try to exhaust bad air out, of course both usually works best. And please don’t mount your dust collector inside the shop/house, I can’t tell you how many factories and shops I have seen with this setup. It does no good to exhaust your dust collector into the same breathing space as your shop or worst your house, even if it is in another room. If the wife doesn’t want you putting a hole through the wall to exhaust the dust collector outside, ask her how she would feel to find the roof two addresses down the street one morning. I am new to engraving, and these are just some of the problems areas that I have seen since I have taken up this trade, there are many more areas that could be dangerous too I’m sure. Everyone stay safe, live a long life and make beautiful things for all to enjoy. Sorry this is so long, but organizing safety plans and hazard mitigation was one of the hats I wore for 22 years before I was injured in an auto accident. Talk about ironic. Good Luck, Tim Clark metalchipper@aol.com
Tim Clark <
metalchipper@aol.com>
Miami, Fl - Sunday, July 25, 2004 at 13:49:33 (EDT)


A side note to what I just posted. The same student told me that one of the most dangerous items that we all take for granted in our shops are the solvents. For example he referred to lacquer thinner as “liver solvent”… It goes right through your skin, and eventually destroys your liver.
Brian Marshall
- Sunday, July 25, 2004 at 00:09:01 (EDT)


Almost everything we do these days has some hidden drawback and the engraving art is no exception. Cobalt, nickel, and other components of modern day cutting alloys are listed on the MSDS for each material. I actually had a student who worked HazMat in his day job. We spent quite a few hours going over some of the more obvious poisons, carcinogens, and other nasty stuff found in an average workshop. He told me that in a one man engraving shop the dust from sharpening cutters was something that should definitely be considered – but that the particles produced from grinding gravers were pretty heavy and as long as reasonable care was taken to remove the residue the danger was “minimal”. He did say that it would NOT be wise to blow off the bench or your sharpening equipment with compressed air. Not wise to vacuum either – unless you have one with a HEPA or micron filter. Best, simplest way was with wet paper towels, which are then wrapped in a plastic ziplock freezer bag to be disposed of. You DO NOT want to help these little particles get airborne! In the end YOU need to take the responsibility to find out what you are working with and how it may affect your health. While I believe that my personal bout with cancer was caused by the cadmium fumes in the silver solder I used on a daily basis for 20 years - it is entirely possible that one or more other carcinogens were responsible in part or entirely. No one knows for sure. My personal opinion about gravers for stainless are as follows – please remember that these are my opinions and others on this forum may differ… I believe that the Glensteel is a couple degrees softer than Mo-Max. (If that is the brand you are referring to?) I used Mo-Max for 10 years myself. Most "carbide" tools also contain small amounts of carcinogious (is that a word?) metals. And most carbide is brittle, as you may know. The best balance of hardness, toughness, and all around use that I have found is with the Lindsay “Carbalt” graver blanks. I sharpen an ordinary HSS graver 6 or 7 times to one time with the Carbalt. They cost a little bit more, take a minute or two longer to sharpen, but the time you save having to re-sharpen is worth far more… Above all – and I’ll repeat myself here: READ THE WARNINGS, READ THE MSDS, RESEARCH THE SUBJECT YOURSELF – then take the responsibility to make your own decision. I am a perfect example of what can happen if you don’t pay attention...
Brian Marshall <
instructor@jewelryartschool.com>
Stockton, CA 95209` 209-477-0550 - Sunday, July 25, 2004 at 00:02:16 (EDT)


Hello I am a new engraver and I have some Cobalt gravers that I have been using. I notice that GRS no longer has Cobalt for health reasons. Can you tell me what the health reason is. Is it breathing the dust while sharpening. What is the alternative for Stainless. Does the glen steel work for stainless
Charlie Glackman <
Longline@lightbound.com>
Fairland, IN 317-835-2650 - Saturday, July 24, 2004 at 22:12:36 (EDT)


hi all just like to tell the room that I have just engraved a brass plaque with a scroll design and it has come out rather good for my standards,I used the hammer and gravers technique. I just show's that if you keep trying and don't give up that you will slowly progress and also listen to the advise that people give you on this site.The main point that I was happy with is that I did,nt slip across the piece and ruin it.It is only in the last to days that I have found the right angle to hold the graver at with out going to deep or to shallow,so its now a case off more & more practice. don't now if this tip is anygood to any off the room but when I was laying out my design I did,nt have any off the chineese white ( I think that is what its called) to I mixed a little white emultion paint and some water and rubbed it onto the metal with my finger then used a hair-dryer to get it go off ,then I was able to draw onto it. regards ian
ian <
tp001b8050@blueyonder.co.uk>
st helens, uk - Saturday, July 24, 2004 at 11:04:20 (EDT)


Tom, I plan on using my gravermax with a carbide bit fot some of the cutting and then comming in with the 850 rotary and barley touching the areas that would be darkened with ink or rust oleum with heavier or more touches in the darkest areas or the areas that would be darker, I have used this technique on glass engraving only in reverse, (touching the areas more that would be the lighter) all i do is use a scanned copy in gray tones to give me the areas that need more attention than others, any more help would be greatly appreciated for engraving is very new to me, I have only been at it about 4 months and brother is it a son of a gun to get used to, no pun intended.
william colebank <
billyjo@sleepyeyetel.net>
- Saturday, July 24, 2004 at 10:11:28 (EDT)


It really depends, in my opinion, on the type of finish on the metal. A satin finish stainless would work well if you used the techniques you described. In my experience, miror finshes do not look good with black in the cuts.Also, how hard is the blade? What type of tool do you plan to use? Take care, Tom
Tom McArdle <
gravertom>
- Friday, July 23, 2004 at 21:48:05 (EDT)


Interesting Tom concerning the process in silver or (stainless in my case) I was given a long sort of machette knife and the fella asked me if i could engrave a mountain lion on it, since i have been an airbrush artist for years i figured i could do it, now,, You have got me a little gun shy, I thought i could just cut it stipple it and then darken it. Any more help would be greatly appreciated thank you
William Colebank <
billyjo@sleepyeyetel.net>
- Friday, July 23, 2004 at 21:02:24 (EDT)


Did the engravers of the late 19th century use a particular pattern or style on the guns they engraved. Sort of a trademark? I was interested in an engraver from this time period who used scroll work, but incorporated what appear to be grape vines and and bunches of grapes. Can anyone identify this engraver? Also, was it common to purchase a gun in a blued finish from the factory and then have it plated and engraved somewhere else? Thanks, Chris
Chris Colman <
irishlad1@bellsouth.net>
Sanford, Florida - Friday, July 23, 2004 at 20:03:51 (EDT)


hi has anyone got plans off how to make a ball vise out off a bowling ball,if so can you e-mail me or let me now and I will give you my address
ian <
tp001b8050@blueyonder.co.uk>
liverpool, uk - Friday, July 23, 2004 at 17:17:17 (EDT)


hey James, This work can be challenging. I did a simple portrait on a silver zippo once. It really ended up almost looking like a negative. The cuts in silver tend to look "whiter" than the polished background. I would get a polished piece of scrap silver, and try out a Dog on that. make the cuts where you want the dog to be white, leave the black areas relatively untouched, except for some lines to suggest form. Then see how it looks. That is the best i know to suggest. You may want to look at some glass engravings to see the effect, since the stippling in the glass looks white, and the plain glass is "darker" in a sense. Hope this helps. Tom
Tom McArdle <
gravertom>
- Thursday, July 22, 2004 at 23:24:51 (EDT)sday, July 22, 2004 a


render a couple of black and white pointer dogs onto the side of a 12' silver bowl. The image of the dogs will be about 1.5 inches high. I will be leaving the image bright and undarkened when finished. Question: how do I best create the sense of black and white contrast on these small dogs on a bright surface? I have noticed horizontal shade lines appear to reflect more light than vertical. Should I just render like I was doing a printing plate. I have noticed that some small engraving on jewelry is done in very shallow relief like the bas relief of a coin. Rendering in bright metal seems to create challenges different from when one darkens the engraving with ink or oxide. Any suggestions or referals to examples would be appreaciated.
James Roettger
Mpls., MN 612-340-0018 - Wednesday, July 21, 2004 at 20:12:52 (EDT)


Hi my name is Andy Hawgood and I am emailing to ask you if could help me engrave a number of different metal products with custom engraving. One of my projects is to engrave a number of bicycles from top to bottom, the entire bike. I would be do a run of these that are going to be a limited edition bike promotion. I don't know if you guys do that stuff, but if you have ideas or leads please contact me and I would be much obliged.
Andy Hawgood <
kidbeatnik@yahoo.com>
San Francisco, CA 94122 - Monday, July 19, 2004 at 16:01:05 (EDT)


William, coloring using paint is done essentially the same as doing color scrimshaw. I have seen some really awesome work done this way, but in my opinion, it cheapens the overall presentation. Some like it and pay big bucks for it and some don't. To each is own. Of course you can color to the extent of various alloys and materials, yellow, green, red, white golds, and other metals. ---As far as background removal with a hi speed rotatry, it can be done, but it takes a lot practice, in the meantime you can screw up more the you can fix. most of the time, I stick with gravers to remove material in tight areas. the rotary is for the bigger spaces. A lot depends on what size scrolls you cut and consequently what size background chunks you have to remove. Of course, some of us avoid removing background on harder metals/guns.... selective bead blasting would be my prefferred background treatment in such a case. Hope this helps
scott <
www.pilkguns.com>
- Saturday, July 17, 2004 at 17:56:49 (EDT)


Hello folks, I wondering how some of you pros get your color into your engraving, and would also like to ask info on backround removal of stainless steel revolvers, I am using a gravermax and was wondering if the grs rotary tool would be a good backround removal tool, thanx all and a special thank you to Eugene Koeving and Ron Nott, these guys are super and have been very willing to help me and i appreciate it.
William Colebank <
billyjo@sleepyeyetel.net>
hanska, mn 507-439-6254 - Saturday, July 17, 2004 at 16:57:42 (EDT)


hi all I am looking for a second hand GRS graver for sale if you have one or know off anyone let me now please.don't need a compresser as already got one
ian <
tp001b8050@hotmail.com>
liverpool, uk - Friday, July 16, 2004 at 14:21:32 (EDT)


Ian, the crocker engravers are not that exact, so you have to set up your own references. To do this set a square graver in there so that is exactly flat , chekc this by make small drags across the stone, and adjusting until it is exactly dragging the same all the way across. --- that becomes one of your zero marks, make a mark on one of the crocker ticks. then turn it over 90 degrees, do the same thing on this flat of the square, then mark that as 90, and go overgain to the next flat and mark that as zero again. Hope this gets you going--- scott
scott <
www.pilkguns.com>
- Thursday, July 15, 2004 at 14:54:44 (EDT)


hi all I have just got a crocker graver sharpener and I am having difficulty in using it,I can understand the setting off the side angle but when it comes to setting the heel angle at say 52 degrees I can understand as i can't see a reference point to say where you go from there to set the angle if anyone has got any pics to highlight this it would be a great help to me as pics are sopmtinmes easyier to understand but words are sometime as good,
ian <
tp001b8050@blueyonder.co.uk>
liverpool, uk - Thursday, July 15, 2004 at 12:18:28 (EDT)


For electroless nickel plating, try Craftguard out of Iowa. They have done very nice bluing and plating for me at very reasonable prices. Their number is: 319-232-2959.
John Vukos <
jvukos@new.rr.com>
neenah, wi - Tuesday, July 13, 2004 at 10:17:31 (EDT)


Can anyone recommend a good electroless nickel plating company? The one gun that I had plated was sent to a guy near Uvalde, TX and he did a super job on it. His company was called Nitex Guns, but I have heard that he went out of business about a year ago.
Scott Caudle <
scott.caudle@verizon.net>
San Angelo, TX - Monday, July 12, 2004 at 13:28:42 (EDT)


If you want a powered graver that can work with your own air compressor, try the Lindsay Air Graver. http://www.lindsayengraving.com/ This little tool is the best out there. It can be adjusted to a all speed ranges and will even run by just blowing into the air line, you can't cut that way though. For someone that wants to, you can even use a tire pump with an air tank to engrave if you want to be portable. No spings to break and all stainless, the only thing is, it is not cheap. But you get what you pay for, high quality. I like mine so much I am getting a second one, and check out his new handle for the AirGraver that is coming out soon, no more foot pedels. I don't work for him, I'm just a happy customer. Good Luck, Tim
Tim Clark <
metalchipper@aol.com>
Miami, Fl 305-233-1375 - Monday, July 12, 2004 at 07:50:28 (EDT)


hi all Is there anyone in here within 2 hrs drive off me that is willing for me to come down theres and get a few tips,there must be someone out there with a good heart
ian <
tp001b8050@blueyonder.co.uk>
nr liverpool, uk - Saturday, July 10, 2004 at 12:51:24 (EDT)


Ian, it doesn't work that way. The gravermeister is a self-contained unit comprising an electric motor that spins a rotary air pump and a rotary valve that alternates between the pressure side and vacuum side to operate the piston in the handpiece. At least that is how it looks to me. Just hooking to an air supply would not work. I have been using the same gravermeister since late 1974 so one can expect to get one's money's worth! The gravermax is more versatile in strokes per minute and such but I have found the 'meister to fill all my needs over the years. SW
Sam Welch
Castle Valley, UT - Saturday, July 10, 2004 at 11:52:36 (EDT)


hi all I have been looking at the Ngraver site at the price off the gravermeister at aronud $1000,is there anyone out there who has had there own air surply and just bought the hand piece and the foot control ,if so did you have any issues getting it going or was it straight forward.plus if you only buy these items what is the power like?is it variable
ian <
tp001b8050@blueyonder.co.uk>
liverpool, uk - Saturday, July 10, 2004 at 08:27:29 (EDT)


I realize this is short notice, but ... I'm looking for an engraver that might be able to take on a job in the next week. My brother is getting married a week from today (he didn't give me much notice), and though I have a gift I'm giving him the night before, I'd like to have a beautiful plaque/nameplate created. If there is anyone interested and available I'd really appreciate talking with you.
Sam Serebin <
sam@serebin.com>
- Friday, July 09, 2004 at 10:10:48 (EDT)


Ian, I would recommend getting the vari-pact feature if you can afford it. You can use other gravers, but theirs are very good. They are great people to deal with. I have bought a lot of stuff from them over the years. Tom
Tom McArdle <
gravertom@aol.com>
- Friday, July 09, 2004 at 00:35:22 (EDT)


I am thinking off getting a ngraver,I am a beginer.are they anygood or do they give poor result also do they over heat with them being electric or is this a good place to start .also do you have to buy the gravers off them or can you use any without adapting
ian <
tp001b8050@blueyonder.co.uk>
nr liverpool, uk - Thursday, July 08, 2004 at 20:02:16 (EDT)


Para, if the engraver is working in the gunsmith's shop then he doesn't need an FFL in addition to the 'smith's. However, if he then takes the gun to his own shop that constitutes another transfer and an FFL is needed by the engraver and the transfer logged into his record book as well as logged out by the gunsmith. SW
Sam Welch
Castle Valley, UT - Monday, July 05, 2004 at 21:31:56 (EDT)


OK, I see, Sam. Thx for clearing that up. This is what you are hearing from your batf representative? If it's already rec'd and disassembled by a gunsmith, would the engraver have to be licensed as well? TIA.......
Para
- Monday, July 05, 2004 at 19:28:57 (EDT)


PS To truly compensate for the curve, you have to do the layout on a curve in the opposite direction. In other words, if when you make a transfer the text "bends" into a slight "smiley" face, you have to do the layout in a slight"frown" for it to end up straight across the piece. This takes some "feel" and experience, as i have no way of figuring out a mathematical formula to compensate for this. I am hoping, in your case, that the small area will not allow much distorion to show. Tom
Tom McArdle <
gravertom@aol.com>
- Monday, July 05, 2004 at 14:57:12 (EDT)


Guy, do you have a way of printing out text in reverse? You can layout the text on a word processor, and print it in reverse on a laser printer. Then tape it face down to the piece, and use a paper towel to put acetone onto the back of the paper. This will print the toner onto the item. Sometimes, a coating of damar varnish will work to make the transer clearer. If you have an inkjet printer, take your reverse copy to a place where you can get copies made. The ink will not transfer itself, hence the need to make the copy on a regular copier. If you can't print in reverse, print the text onto acetate, then tkae to the copier place and put the acetate on the copier in reverse, to make your reverse copies. It will take some practice to get the right amount of acetone to make a good transfer, but when you get the hang of it, this will help a lot with this type of layout problem. If you have corel draw, it is even easier to manipulate text. If you don't have it, go on e-bay and try to find an older version. I am still using version 9 just fine. Check out masterengraver.com too. Sam Alfano has a very helpful CD available on doing lettering layout on corel draw. best of success, Tom
Tom McArdle <
gravertom@aol.com>
- Monday, July 05, 2004 at 14:51:47 (EDT)


Need Help; Having a very difficult time laying out the letters. I am engraving three lines,in script, on four small lockets with engravable areas of 3/8" x 1/2" that have curved survaces (in both directions). Any suggestions
Guy Chiazza <
gchazz@yahoo.com>
Rochester, NY 585.467.5536 - Monday, July 05, 2004 at 09:23:16 (EDT)


Para- What you say is OK in regards to all parts except the frame of a firearm. This is the item that requires a visible serial number and to receive said item from the owner via mail/parcel service or to keep said item on your premises from one business day to the next requires an FFL on your part.
Sam Welch
Castle Valley, UT - Sunday, July 04, 2004 at 22:04:17 (EDT)


About the gunsmith/bluing issue... Firearms dealers licenses and firearms issues fall under the authority of the IRS Code, Title 26 USC and it concerns the transfer of firearms from one person to another,the taxes involved, and the registration issues, not the matter of the gunsmith or engraving work being done. To receive or transfer firearms to another an FFL is required, if one does enough of these transfers yearly to be considered a 'dealer'. And while only a receiver of a firearms IS considered to be a firearm under the code, by having the firearm received and disassembled by a gunsmith with an ffl first, a license would not be required for the engraver of a firearm or if the owner of the firearm were to provide the firearm to you for engraving disassembled or only the parts requiring engraving, this changes the dynamics of it all due to the fact that this would render the firearm in an unserviceable condition and not subject to the transfer code. Unservicable condition is defined in the code as a firearm that cannot be readily made to shoot a projectile. This would be similar to how you can buy parts for firearms and ship or mail them openly from state to state without restriction but not a completed firearm. This information can be found at Title 26, Subtitle E, Chapter 53, Subchapter B, Part 1, Section 5845 United States Code or you could check with an attorney about it.
para-legal gun nut
Dallas , Tx USA - Sunday, July 04, 2004 at 15:32:45 (EDT)


If anyone wanting to get started engraving and needs a reasonal priced sharpening graver holder, then check this out. I have made a tool that I will sell for $50 that will have all of the angles as well as allow for the slight radius on the bottom cutting edge if needed. You can make your own tool if you have a small lathe from my sketches. The EZE-LAP diamond sold at Walmart for under $6 will cut any steel that you might use for the gravers. A couple of well known name engravers have said that the tool is very interesting. It will repeat the same angles needed and will be quick to use. This will allow for a person to get started into engraving without spending hundreds of dollars. I have a rotating head holder design that can be made for about $25 and it will use a drill press vise for holding the work. The beginner can have the basic tools for under $100 to see if they will able to learn this trade. You will need a couple of books. James Meeks book on Engraving is a good start. Contact me and I will send some pictures. Retired Gunsmith minigun17@yahoo.com
Les Brooks <
Minigun17@yahoo.com>
- Sunday, July 04, 2004 at 11:25:53 (EDT)


I am trying to reverse engrave on plastic (lucite, bakelite) using a hand-held dremel. Fastest speed on mine is 10,000 rpm. I'm having a hard time maintaining control. Looks rather sloppy and hard to get the contours smooth or level and even. The tip tends to slip alot, thus scratching areas I don't intend to. I'm sure lots of practice will help but I thought there might be a better tool to use. Would a faster dremel model help or is there something better to use. I am completely new to this, so I would appreciate any help in "layman's terms" and also information on where to purchase. Thanks very much. Candy
Candy <
ergogetsilly@yahoo.com>
wilmington, nc 28409 910-793-5930 - Friday, July 02, 2004 at 13:41:53 (EDT)


DC, The knives I buy don't require any prep at all other than whipping the oil off before putting on a layout fluid. I use a mixture of 50% white shellac, 50% alcohol and add calcium carbenate until its has enough white. I suppose that the handle stainless is somewhere in the 300 range of hardness. It's harder than the fender washers but not as hard as most gun metal. I tried the little Buck stainless knives but they were probably 440 stainless just like the blades on both knives. Very hard to cut. I engraved a North American Arms mini revolver and these knives are about the same. I orginally got one to practice for that gun. I now buy them about half dozen at a time. Hope this was of some help. Fred
Fred Marrinan <
rrrf68@bellsouth.net>
Albany, GA (229)438-0803 - Friday, July 02, 2004 at 10:48:47 (EDT)


Fred, Those stainless knives you are talking about engraving practice / gifts, do you have to do anything special to them to do the engraving? Temper un temper etc. Excuse my ignorance about the mettalurgy. Thanks, D.C. Lance
D.C. Lance <
dcdadoc@yahoo.com>
Amarillo, Texas 806/354-0057 - Friday, July 02, 2004 at 07:45:57 (EDT)


Hello All I am a new Engraver and have just purchased a Used Stereozoom Microscope from E-bay. It is a blessing. I can look through it for hours without a headache or eyestrain and I can see even the most minute detail that needs attention. Believe me if you can get it to look good at10 power it will look fantastic with your naked eye. Doing background work is far easier as you can see exact spacing because it looks like a foot instead of a few thousands. You can also see the exact depth you are getting and know just how hard to hit your tool with your hammer. I don't have air tools yet. For those of you who are not using a Stereo Zoom Microscope because you think you can't afford one, Mine cost me less than $200 without a BooM stand but I built my own for $50. I have an Olympus SN 40 which is the one all of the new scopes are copied after. Notice when you look for one on EBAY some of them will say like an SN40 Olympus. These are more expensive than a used Olympus and not nearly as good. If you cannot find a Boom Stand for your Scope, contact me and I'll make you one however you want it. Go to Ebay and look under Stereo Zoom Microscope for all brands or Olympus Microscope for Olympus Only. You will want to get one that has at least 100mm plus of working space. 200mm is best. You can find lens that will give you that much used or new. The used ones go for around $40 and a new one is $200 so shop around and look every few days till you find the one you want. Don't be afraid to spend $300 for a good used Olympus or Nikon or Leica or Zeiss or Bausch and Lomb or American Optics although you cannot get parts for American Optics should it break. If you have any questions you may E-mail me at Longline@Lightbound.com You won't regret getting a good scope. Charlie
Longline Charlie <
Longline@lightbound.com>
Fairland, IN 46126 317-835-2650 - Thursday, July 01, 2004 at 18:07:31 (EDT)


Sorry for all the spam the last few days. A spam filter, password won't help as these a##holes have a script to seek out my script. Changing the format may be in future but I'll just try to keep ahead of it for now.
Rex Pedersen
- Thursday, July 01, 2004 at 16:50:06 (EDT)


Rex, Have you considered a good spam filter?? most are low cost and seem effective. Just a thought.
J.C. Randell <
jcis@jcengraver.com>
WA - Thursday, July 01, 2004 at 13:08:17 (EDT)


Hello Ian, You may want to visit this site too. A lot of info over the years grouped by topic. http://groups.msn.com/HandEngravers/messageboard.msnw Take care, Tom
Tom McArdle <
gravertom@aol.com>
- Wednesday, June 30, 2004 at 18:56:25 (EDT)


hi all following some good info via Brian Marshall regarding progression using a air graver via hand gravers,saying that you can learn far more quickly with the air type gravers I am looking for someone in the uk with a good heart who is willing to invite me to his work shop ect to show me and convince me in getting one.I will travel anywhere in the uk for this chance.I await with crossed fingers for a reply.I have emailed quite a few people in the USA in the past for advise and have found the americans to be so helpfull,and there must be people in the uk with the same quality,s
ian <
tp001b8050@blueyonder.co.uk>
st helens, uk - Wednesday, June 30, 2004 at 14:00:36 (EDT)


Thanks Dave. I did find a set, not too expensive.Cost me less than the strawberry did! Tom
Tom McArdle <
gravertom@aol.com>
- Wednesday, June 30, 2004 at 10:53:28 (EDT)


Tom I have a Nikon Microscope and other Mfg eyepieces so I think you are right. Also XXX was selling extended eye relief ones that I used in school and they worked well.
Dave London <
davel@pprbd.org>
Colorado Springs, CO - Wednesday, June 30, 2004 at 09:46:25 (EDT)


Use this site to explore San Diego County communities and find the neighborhood that fits your likes and priorities. This site has extensive community information
San Diego Real Estate <San Diego Real Estate>
USA - Wednesday, June 30, 2004 at 06:32:22 (EDT)


hey guys, need some help. My 3 year old son(the one who put a small strawberry up his nose last year=$300!) pulled out one of my eyepieces from my scope and dropped it on my concrete shop floor. It is an older bausch and Lomb scope, ebay special. Are these eyepieces pretty standard in dimensions, or am i looking at a new scope? I can still use it, but the ragged line in the field of view is disconcerting! Thanks, Tom
Tom McArdle <
gravertom@aol.com>
- Tuesday, June 29, 2004 at 21:31:11 (EDT)


Howdy Folks! My name is Fred Marrinan and I am novice engraver. Been at it about three years. I have a couple of things to share with my fellows. I spent a couple of good hours going through all the posts on this site. My intention was to get up to speed on the kind of information being shared and see if there was anything I could share. I noted a post or two about practice plates. I go to my local Home Depot and get 2 inch fender washers. They are cheap, don't require much prep and I can try a scroll or leaf or shading technique by simply popping one in the block, try whatever and go on. Another usful practice "plate" I have found was in my local Ace hardware and at my NAPA dealer. Both of them sell stainless steel pocket knives (probably from China)with 2 440 stainless blades (one is a straight razor)for $6.95. I have found them to be fun to do layouts on, engrave and people really like them as a gift. Have used them as thank yous to my vet, Dr. others. they are relly appricated and I don't just keep filling up scrape buckets. Another tip I would share iw termal vacum setting sheet plastic. It is thin sheet used in a vacum molding machine. It's pretty cheap and real easy to use. Simply heat it (blow dryer, oven at 150 etc)place it overan engraved surface and burnish. you will force it into each cut and it will reproduce a "stamp" or "templete" One of the major themes I picked up today was people who want to try this art feel a need to get some tools and start cutting. I hold a Doctorate in Vocational Education and have a bit of erogant advise for them before they start chipping away-read-read-read, study others-study others and study others. Carry a pocket magnifyer and study every piece you come across, even replica or stamped "engraving". Study layout, learn the rules, learn when and how to drake them. Draw, Draw, Draw. When the beginer can't go into a store without looking through all the magazines for every and anything engraved item. Only when you have to stop and look at every antique store to see what might be engraved should they be concerned with high dollar tools. Yes, I do do all these things.I can recognize many of the members of this organization's work because I have studied and read and drawn and shopped. A beginner can pick you a few hand tools, a stone and a bag of 6-Ougnt bird shot and give it a try for very few dollars. but always remember to study. at some point in time those with the desire and the determination will find that they need tools more than a vacation. just a couple of thoughts and a bit of novice advise
Fred Marrinan <
rrrf68@bellsouth.net>
Albany, GA 31721 - Tuesday, June 29, 2004 at 20:32:49 (EDT)


thanks Tom,I can see that I'am going to need alot of help learning to ingrave,does anyone know if someone in the tampa bay area that teaches ingraving? thanks folks. dutch.
robert j weiland <
dutchweiland@webtv.net>
springhill, fl 3526883830 - Tuesday, June 29, 2004 at 19:47:50 (EDT)


Thanks Tom, I can see that I'am going to need alot of help learning to ingrave,does anyone know if someone in the tampa bay area teaches ingravings? thanks folks. dutch.
robert j weiland <
dutchweiland@webtv.net>
springhill, fl 34608 3526883830 - Tuesday, June 29, 2004 at 17:06:43 (EDT)


Dutch, If you are a member, you will be getting the engraver when the next issue comes out. welcome aboard! Tom
Tom McArdle <
gravertom@aol.com>
- Tuesday, June 29, 2004 at 02:23:08 (EDT)


Hi folks,this is a great place to visit, I'am a new member of FEGA and really new to ingravering, I'ev been a tool and die maker for the last 45 years now retired wih time to learn this art form will someone please tell me where to sign up for the news letter INGRAVER. thanks folks. Dutch.
robert j weiland, <
dutchweiland@webtv.net>
springhill, florida 352 688 3830 - Monday, June 28, 2004 at 22:40:04 (EDT)


I agree with Jerry and Marty about a password. We really don't need this unnecessary spam on our website. This site is for the engravers for an exchange of ideas to educate ourselves and help up and coming gun engravers. Sincerely,
JJ Roberts
- Monday, June 28, 2004 at 17:04:11 (EDT)


I find it hard to believe that these same inconsiderate spammers actually think we would respect there product or extraterestial language and points of view to use their product. I suppose it's their way of resolving their short comings to resort to this invasion of sorts. Perhaps a password system is in order even though by having a totally open forum lets anyone with a legitimate question and need access us with ease. These intruders are a big problems and it does take Rex a lot of time to remove the postings.
Marty Rabeno
- Monday, June 28, 2004 at 08:38:05 (EDT)


lately the forum is being abused by a lot of inconsiderate advertisers. I resent this extremely as I know most of the other members do also. Maybe we will have to resort to having a password entry system to prevent this kind of abuse. jerry huddleston
jerry huddleston <
huddlestonjery@msn.com>
baker, or. 5415232593 - Monday, June 28, 2004 at 02:41:25 (EDT)


hi all has anyone out there got time time chat via e-mail to me as I am trying to learn to hand engrave with some gravers I purchased from the usa,I use a 8oz hammer,and a cheap rotary vise,I can't justify paying a lot off money for a air graver till I am compitent enought with the hand gravers.I am able to do a straight line and just finding my way on the curves,what I am finding is that where the metal has beed removed it is rought off the impact from the hammer,is this down to the sharpness or just a case off practace.If there is anyone on here from the uk I would be greatfull if you could contact me and maybe I could visit you for a lesson or two .I have not got any problems with paying(not to much please)but need to be shown the basics. Is there any good videos out the that show you the basics using handgravers or has anyone got a copy I could buy off them. hope there is someone out there who has got sometime for me regards ian
ian groves <
tp001b805@blueyonder.co.uk>
st helens, uk - Saturday, June 26, 2004 at 10:37:39 (EDT)


Microscope for sale. I have a complete Meiji EMZ-5 scope body. A boom stand will need to be purchased or made. The scope is 3.5X 22.5 power. It has a .5 objective lens and 10x lenses. Working distance is 6 inches. The scope is in very good working condition. The optics are scratch free and bright. This scope is the same model and specifications that GRS sells for $1248, also without a stand. I will sell the scope for $625 shipped.If you have any questions or would like to see a picture please e-mail me.
Shawn Swafford <
ringneck16@coxusa.com>
- Friday, June 25, 2004 at 22:35:18 (EDT)


Ngraver 100 engraving outfit for sale $300.00. Please contact me by email if interested. Thanks
alan <
456712@easy.com>
- Thursday, June 24, 2004 at 00:37:07 (EDT)


Still looking for contact information for Richard Roy (CSMC engraver) Just need some additional pictures ( dorsal/ and trigger guard tang) of one of his guns. If any of you folks know him , I request he contact me at jpatt1@uis.edu. thanks! best regards, JBP
J.B.Patton <
jpatt1@uis.edu>
Edinburg, Illinois - Monday, June 21, 2004 at 17:20:44 (EDT)


some good ideas, another consideration is to find a good gunsmith in your area and run everything through him. There are liability issues in doing gunsmithing work, and a good gunsmith , possibly an ACGG member will minimize the chance of mechanical problems. I have also been told by my friend David Trevallion that legal liability is on the last professional to handle the firearm. I am not a lawyer, so I cannot vouch for this. The NRA has an insurance referral for people in the business, and you should be insured. Barry
Barry Lee Hands <
barry@barryleehands.com>
Las Vegas, 7023270251 - Saturday, June 19, 2004 at 09:00:14 (EDT)


WANTED: I have a pair of horse spurs that I want inlayed with silver initials and I haven't been able to find anyone that will do it. I was directed to this site by a silversmith in Minn. I hope that someone is willing to discuss the project with me. They are meant to be a special gift. Thank You.
Jamie Gray <
denhamj@marietta.edu>
Wheeling, West Virginia 304-280-5244 - Wednesday, June 16, 2004 at 12:44:12 (EDT)


To Yves: I agree with Tom. If you know you need the gun disassembled and the barrel removed....tell the customer, and definitely find out who pays for re-bluing if it gets a couple of good scratches in it. I charge for disassembly-reassembly,polishing and rebluing. (Usually included in the price quote) Also, only a few select guns leave here "In the White" or unfinished in any form. I've been educated where the customer said he was going to have it reblued himself or by one of his "buddies" that does rebluing "on the side". The only trouble was the customer was busy showing it off to his friends and then "buddy" didn't get around to bluing it for a month or so after that. By then, it had developed some serious oxidation, and I got blamed for not having enough rust preventative on it. I went around and around with the customer and didn't have to pay for his negligence, but I had to deal with it none the less. Very few guns leave here "in the white" or with unfinished steel exposed.
Brian Powley
- Tuesday, June 15, 2004 at 18:40:40 (EDT)


here are some concerns to think about. What if there is a slip, who pays for the rebluing then? Can you do the quality of work you want to with the barrels installed? Is this the kind of work you will like other people to see? It has been tough, but I am learning that I would rather not do a job in such a way as I would not personally be pleased with the results, even if the customer would be.Hope this helps you make a decision that works for you. Tom
Tom McArdle <
gravertom@aol.com>
- Tuesday, June 15, 2004 at 13:27:01 (EDT)


Currently my engraving is on firearms that have been stripped and polished, barrel off of receiver, etc. and will refinish when the engraving is complete. The question? I have a new client wishing to have engraving on several firearms, rifles and pistols, that are factory new in box. He currently has them engraved right over the bluing without the barrels being removed. I know this is not the norm and am asking how you would approach the subjet. Should I remove the barrels or not? Should I remove the bluing or not? Thanks
Yves <
yjcch@aol.com>
Savannah, GA 912-965-7213 - Tuesday, June 15, 2004 at 11:33:57 (EDT)


ON MAKING CASTINGS.We all know about those tiny air bubbles ruining our castings. In my quest for a solution, I came across this website: www.alumilite.com.(Go figure) There, they make reference to placing the resin filled mold into a pressure tank, running the PSI to 30-40 and letting the resin cure under pressure. Alumilite claims the pressure "crushes" the air bubbles to a size that makes them microscopic resulting in a blemish free casting. They recommend doing this proceedure to the mold making process as well. I have one of those pressure paint tanks I bought a Sears many years ago, and will give this a try. Alumilite also details a "vacuum" process, where the casting resin is placed in an absolute vacuum and literally causes the air bubbles to rupture, leaving only resin.........no air bubbles. I'm sure this is old news to some, but I just learned about it. I hope it works.
Brian Powley
- Sunday, June 13, 2004 at 12:27:42 (EDT)


"FOR SALE" NGRAVER MAGNAGRAVER GUN ENGRAVING TOOL (complete outfit, dual output motor with 3 to 1 gear reduction, flex shaft, Ngraver 100 handpiece) + Jeremiah Watt Cowboy engraving, Cowboy silversmithing, & Cowboy Bit & Spurs making making video set and a Vigor western rodeo trophy buckle making tape. A great package deal currently for sale on Ebay $400.00 buy it now price. Item # 4903211319. or contact by email for questions more info. Thank you
Alan <
junksalot@easy.com>
Tx - Saturday, June 12, 2004 at 16:14:55 (EDT)


MP, the difference in the Ngraver and the pneumatic hammer is that with the Ngraver you vary the strokes per minute while the power of the stroke remains basicly the same and with the pneumatic hammer you vary the power of the stroke while the strokes per minute remains constant. The latter seems to allow for finer or lighter cutting.
Sam Welch
Castle Valley, UT - Tuesday, June 08, 2004 at 22:30:54 (EDT)


I am learning how to engrave script. I have so many thngs to think about, hand position, slanting of letters, spacing, depth, not to slip and cut myself eek!... My question is of the most fundimental types, how do I lay out the letters and more importantly, pratice the letters on the copper plating if I do not yet know which way the strokes on the letters go without constantly looking at the book. How does one memorize which way the strokes go? Should I pratice out the letters first by drawing the strokes onto a piece of paper until I have that down? Please ANY advise on this subject or on anything else as a "newbe' would need to have answered. Thank you, Laurie p.s. I have been a goldsmith for the last 13 years and this is hard stuff to learn!
Laurie <
anette@peoplepc.com>
Enfield, Ct - Tuesday, June 08, 2004 at 20:10:34 (EDT)


MP, the Foredom tool despite it's name is way underppwered. the Ngraver is the way to go in this arena. the only thing really critical to using an Ngraver is placeing the motor above and behind you so that you have minimal amount of movement of the flex shaft itself. if you get the motor placed right, so that you are not fighting the shaft, you can do some great work with it. The Vari-pact is great for doing slow detailed work, I see some fantastic work done with it, ---- The GRS sytstem 3 is another opttion, but seems everybody I know that bought one ended up going to Gravermax aftterwards... As Tom says, its the hands not the tools, any of the big 3 will do great work, the lindsay, the Gravermax, or the Ngraver in talented hands will do fine
Scott Pilkington <
www.pilkguns.com>
- Tuesday, June 08, 2004 at 11:08:28 (EDT)


MP, I don't know what the differences between the Ngraver and the foredom would be. I got to try a NGraver once, and believe I could do good work with it. I wouldn't buy a foredom tool if you have the NGraver already. As far as the air tools go, I think you will get a wider range of power, but I really don't know what the Ngraver is fully capable of. I don't think you will suffer at the top end with the NGraver, but maybe it will not cut as super light as some of the air tools can. I don'tknow how much experience you have so far, but I would recommend that you work with what you have for a while. Although tools can make a difference, engraving is still engraving. If you do head towards air tools, i would recommend, in addition to the GRS products, that you check out http://www.lindsayengraving.com. best of success, Tom
Tom McArdle <
gravertom@aol.com>
- Monday, June 07, 2004 at 23:17:05 (EDT)


"QUESTION" I am a beginner who would like to ask a question for myself and those of us who are inexperienced and still trying to decide which type engraving machines would best fit our needs and budget ect. I currently have a used NGRAVER MagnaGraver 100 handpiece attached to a Dumore dual reduction gear motor with a flexade flexible shaft. My question is: How does an Ngraver engraving outfit compare to the Fordome powergraver? Which is better and why? Also what are the major differences between actual performance of flexible shaft setups and air powered like Gravermax, Gravermeister or the less expensive GRS system 3 for instance. Is there a huge difference in the quality of work a beginner would be able to acheive based on equipment? Thanks for any replies.
MP <
456712@easy.com>
- Monday, June 07, 2004 at 19:15:00 (EDT)


Tom and Brian Thanks for the replies. When I read about this new device on Steve Lindsay's website I assumed that it was an entirely new tool, not something that could be added on to an existing air graver. This is great news. Brian - I have emailed him on occasion and found him extremely responsive to questions on using the airgraver and very prompt in his replies. I have also found the GRS folks equally helpful and prompt as well. It has made very easy to transition from hand powered to power-assist engraving. Thanks for the information.
Allan
- Saturday, June 05, 2004 at 18:13:45 (EDT)


Allan, It is for the current AirGravers with the rubber, burl or ivory handles and the past ones with the "turn and click-on" burl or ivory handles. There might be a few of the current ones with the rubber handle, to which slots will need to be added. I think that Steve intends to include the conversion (for those few without the slots) in the price of the new palm controllers when they are released this fall? You can look and see what you've got by simply pulling off the rubber handle. Look for "L' shaped locking slots - if you have 'em - you are ready to convert. For those with the burl or ivory handles the slots are already there. The original ACG introduced in 2000 may not work because there might not be enough room/thickness to add the slots... Better ask Steve directly about these. His email is Steve@LindsayEngraving.com He generally answers his email enquiries within hours. From my experience playing with the prototype, Im sure you'll be happy... The only problem I encountered was getting over the habit of feeling for the foot controller to make it go. But then I find myself doing that whenever I pick up a burin to put in a few push cut details. Embarrasing when you do it in front of students, but harmless! Brian
Brian P. Marshall <
instructor@jewelryartschool.com>
Stockton, CA 209-477-0550 - Saturday, June 05, 2004 at 16:02:52 (EDT)


It is for his existing tools.I don't know if it will fit the older tools or not. I will try to find out. Tom
Tom McArdle <
gravertom@aol.com>
- Thursday, June 03, 2004 at 22:49:53 (EDT)


Brian..thanks for the post about the Linday palm controller. Is the new device a retro-fit onto his standard air gravers or is this a completely new tool? And does it require some getting used to? Allan Allan
Allan
- Thursday, June 03, 2004 at 21:24:22 (EDT)


On the subject of power assisted engraving tools to aid physically limited engravers: Though I do not yet consider myself to be “handicapped” – after 14 surgeries and 27 fractured bones - I do have a few more limitations than the average person:)…. I am right handed, and must use several devices I’ve made in order to be able to continue engraving. I’ve lost my right trapezius muscle and the ability to raise my arm/elbow out to the side. One device consists of a hook in the ceiling over my bench to which is attached a spring, an adjustable section of rope, and a padded sling. This supports my arm and allows a range of motion similar to what I used to have. One of many features incorporated into the Lindsay AirGraver is the stroke adjustment collar right on the handpiece. This is extremely convenient for me, as it is difficult as well as painful for me to reach over the bench to a control box. I have personally tried out the prototype of the new “palm controller” that Steve has developed and patented. He has taken the ordinary foot control, miniaturized it, and stuffed it all into a normal sized “handle” that will attach to his standard tools. For me, with both ankles having been crushed many years ago – this will be a further relief, and I look forward to using it in place of the awkward (to me) foot pedals I’ve used over the past 27 years… Brian P. Marshall Stockton Jewelry Arts School 2207 Lucile Ave. Stockton, CA 95209 209-477-0550 jewelryartschool@aol.com instructor@jewelryartschool.com
Brian P. Marshall <
instructor@jewelryartschool.com>
Stockton, CA 209-477-0550 - Thursday, June 03, 2004 at 07:04:02 (EDT)


Chris,_____ I have engraved several brass instruments for a custom maker. Its really not practical to engrave something like this post assembly for a number of reasons... Dissambly is a pain if not impossible in some cases, special jigs are required to hold it, and normally the engraved ones are made of slighty thicker brass at least on the bell end, to allow for the engraving with out serioulsy changing the tone of the instrument , since the various depth changes caused by engraving in the thin sheet metal can greatly distort the sound waves coming off them----- there is a reason why some things are so expensive
Scott Pilkington
- Wednesday, June 02, 2004 at 20:52:04 (EDT)


***Wanted*** I have a Silver plate Alto Saxophone (Selmer Paris). I bought it without the engraving, and I was wondering if it was possible, and if so, the rough price, to get my saxophone custom engraved on the bell, or perhaps something more detailed as well. I don't really know what is possible to do, so my request is a rather broad, open one. Thank you for your time Cj
Chris J.C. <
PeachCountyPride@aol.com>
Byron, Ga 1-478-956-1893 - Tuesday, June 01, 2004 at 19:31:41 (EDT)


We have not held our show at the Sands Regency for a number of years now. It will be held and the Silver Legacy hotel where we have been able to put on a very nice exhibit since we left the Sands. The dates are Jan. 28-30, 2005 and you can click on the annual show button on the fega homepage for this information.
Marty Rabeno
- Tuesday, June 01, 2004 at 09:41:45 (EDT)


What is the date of the next convention in Reno, Nevada and where will it be held if not the Sands Regency?
Douglas <
pahrahinc@earthlink.net>
Sparks, Nevada - Sunday, May 30, 2004 at 22:54:28 (EDT)


Jim, "Engraver" is fega's newslwtter, Join the guild and it will be sent to you-Barry
barry lee hands <
baerzo@hotmail.com>
- Saturday, May 29, 2004 at 15:24:25 (EDT)


Howdy: I saw a reference to a publication called "Engraver" in one of the postings and know nothing about it. Does anybody know their email address and/or their WEB-site 'URL'? I'd like to get in contact with them and check-out the "Engraver". Please email me directly ( jim321@webtv.net ), thanks, Jim.
Jim Skladany <
jim321@webtv.net>
San Bernardino, CA 92405 - Saturday, May 29, 2004 at 13:33:14 (EDT)


I see many postings here asking questions on basic engraving how to. I will be teaching a basic engraving class at glendo in emporia kansas june 14-18 and we still have a couple openings for students. If you have time, sign up and bring your problems and questions. I have found there is no better way to learn than engraving in a room full of other engravers. I just returned from Brescia and London where I spent some time with the Fracassis, Ken and Marcus Hunt. and others too numerous to list here. The best thing an engraver can do to learn in the USA is to join the guild, attend the guild related events and spend as much time at the bench and with other engravers as possible.
Barry Lee Hands <
baerzo@hotmail.com>
Las Vegas, NV 7023270251 - Saturday, May 29, 2004 at 10:34:58 (EDT)


I am seeking info. on a set of Ezra F. Bowman & Co. engraving tools. My father gave me a boxed set of six tools many years ago. They are in excellent condition and appear to never have been used. There is a pat. date of Mar. 12,1888. Any information would be greatly appreciated. The tools are finely crafted and engraved. The case is slightly weathered. thanks
john <
jws338@webtv.net>
- Thursday, May 27, 2004 at 20:18:41 (EDT)


FRANKBUCK I just had the same question to ask a few months ago...which engraver to buy? Well I spent all that time researching each of the options as carefully as possible because $1500-2000 is not just chump change. Anyways I finally made a decision and I'm absolutely sure that it is the right one for me and I'm just as sure that it would be the right one for you...I'll explain more in a bit. Pretty much all the engravers (Gravermeister/Max) are excellant buys but for the same money do yourself a huge favor and invest in a Lindsay Airgraver. Go to www.lindsayengraving.com I'm in a wheelchair/handicapped so I had to borrow the money (approx. $4000) to buy all the engraving equip that I needed to do it right. I have an old magna-graver so I bought the GRS Power Hone, some graver blanks ect. from GRS just to make sure that I could actually engrave before buying the gavermax. Anyways after the Lindsay discovery they would not loan me the money without proof of Lindsay handpiece quality and legitamacy so with no other alternative I had them call GRS (the same people that wanted to sell me Gravermax) for a recomendation and wa-la I've been useing my Lindsay Classic handpiece for about 2 weeks now and it's great. Steve's pretty much always available by phone or e-mail to answer all my stupid questions and his online school is excellant. FACT: I now know that not all "famous, Artsy-fartsy" people are jackasses. heheh Good luck man!! GDee
Gaylan Milligan <
gdeemon@yahoo.com>
Pie Town, NM 87827 505-772-2705 - Thursday, May 27, 2004 at 18:14:15 (EDT)


Hi, I live in Orange County, CA and have purchased a stainless steel cuff/bracelet in which I would like to engrave a message. Recommendations??????
Kim <
kimberly@anotherline.com>
Newport Beach, CA na - Thursday, May 27, 2004 at 13:23:06 (EDT)


After reading the latest copy of the "Engraver", I noticed Steve Lindsay's advertisment on the inside page of the back cover, the words "No more foot pedals". The first thing that came to mind was for the use of handicapped engravers. The hand held air tool would be a great breakthrough tool for anyone who is bound to a wheelchair. Over the years there have been many helpful tools, but none with the handicapped in mind.
JJ Roberts
Manassas, VA - Wednesday, May 26, 2004 at 16:55:16 (EDT)


NEED HELP! I WILL BE TEACHING A BASIC ENGRAVING CLASS AT TRINIDAD STATE JUNIOR COLLEGE JUNE 14-25. THE SCHOOL DOSE NOT HAVE ANY GRAVER MAX MACHINES FOR THE STUDENTS TO USE. IF YOU HAVE A GRAVER MAX THAT YOU WOULD BE WILLING TO LOAN, RENT OUT OR SELL PLEASE GIVE ME A CALL. ED DELORGE, 985-223-0206, E-MAIL delorge@triparish.net
ED DELORGE <
delorge@triparish.net>
HOUMA, LA 985-223-0206 - Wednesday, May 19, 2004 at 14:54:51 (EDT)


Jerry, I looked into your vise a little more. what i found out was IDEAL may have been a company that made a vise that was keyless and they had the patent on the keyless vise.and A.D. MUEHLMATT bought then out around 1903 or 1904 to get the keyless patent. MUELMATT then sold off IDEALS old inventory of keyless vises. but before they sold them they stamped there name on the vises. the #244 may have been a IDEAL model number. i'm sorry but i don't really know what the value is.
Curt Hanson
Hilo, Hawaii - Wednesday, May 19, 2004 at 13:24:19 (EDT)


Gravermates are a greater starter or use for life. I have one that was used when I bought 15 or so years ago. I still use the big handle. I can use it for everything that I use for hammer and chisel or the burin. I do every thing from deep and sculptured to bulino with the gravermate. Sometimes it is still easier and quicker to use my hand tools though. I have used the gravermate to engrave scroll on the head of a pin. I think what you buy has more to do with your budget and where you want to go with your engraving. My advice is to buy the best you can afford. This is important when it becomes your source of income.
Jim Blair
Wyo. 82637 - Wednesday, May 19, 2004 at 09:23:14 (EDT)


Would the gravermate be a good starter tool or should a person buy a gravermax or miester to start with for engraving.
frankbuck
- Tuesday, May 18, 2004 at 23:19:33 (EDT)


Fred Harrington??? I've been trying to get a hold of him for an engraving job. Anybody have a current phone number? Thanks
Chris <
bigmonkey31@aol.com>
- Monday, May 17, 2004 at 10:00:13 (EDT)


Curt, I was wondering if you have any information as far as value of #244? If so I would appreciate your help. thanks!
Jerry
- Saturday, May 15, 2004 at 23:38:38 (EDT)


Engraving gun parts: It would be nice to get just the gun parts to engrave,but I never really have been able to get anybody to send me just the parts. Recently, a customer with a contemporary muzzle loader gave me a patchbox cover a trigger guard, and the lock plate and hammer. I engraved his initials on the trigger guard, I also engraved the lock plate and hammer with scrolls, and the patch box with an eagle. When the job was finished we planned to meet at a local gun show and put the gun parts back on the gun. To my amazement everything went well until we got to the patch box cover. Turns out I engraved the eagle upside down. This is one gun I would of liked to have gotten all in one piece. The customer showed his buddy at the time and his buddy said, "Well George you can always say that JJ can engrave standing on his head". The customer ordered a new patch box and,I redid it for him, lesson learned....JJ
JJ Roberts <
jjrengraver@aol.com>
- Saturday, May 15, 2004 at 18:00:49 (EDT)


Hey Berry, Been trying to get a hold of you! No wonder I can't. Glad to hear your having a great time. When you get back in the states give me a call or email. We have a lot of catching up to do. Take care Darren
Darren P. Reeves <
dpreeves@wtp.net>
Billings, MT 406-245-3444 - Friday, May 14, 2004 at 21:57:10 (EDT)


Hi Guys, (and girls)this is Barry, I have been traveling about in south africa, (hunting and photography) egypt, greece and italy(researching ornament) and I have been in brescia the last few days. Met lots of excellent engravers here, this place is like a disneyland for gunnies
Barry Lee Hands <
baerzo@hotmail.com>
brescia, italy 0017023270251 - Friday, May 14, 2004 at 15:49:02 (EDT)


Curt, Thank you for responding. The item I have weighs approximately 10 lbs. The shape of it is like a ball cut in half and it sits on a plate with a shaft going into the ball. The shaft looks like it has bearings in it. I hope this description is helpful. Again, thanks for you help.
Jerry Quick <
quickfamily47855@yahoo.com>
- Thursday, May 13, 2004 at 22:41:52 (EDT)


hey Guys, I am in need of some help on pricing some gold inlaid lettering. I have a customer who wants 28 small roman style letters inlaid with gold on the rib of a small damascus .410 double. How much would some of you charge per letter for that type of work? Also, any worries about the gunsmith etching the barrels after the gold is inlaid? Thanks for any advice! Tom
Tom McArdle <
gravertom@aol.com>
- Tuesday, May 11, 2004 at 01:56:18 (EDT)


I have worked in Tiffany & Co. for 25 years as a master engraver. I do everything. I am 40 years experienced. I retired for disability. I am 56 years old. I like working at home for 4 to 5 hours a day. If you find something for me please give me a call or send me an email. I appriciate it Thank you
Horacio <
georgez212@aol.com>
bayside, new york 718-352-0599 - Monday, May 10, 2004 at 23:02:00 (EDT)


Luis. I too would prefer if the client or gunmaker just send me the parts I need to engrave. These other professionals I do and I would rather just concentrate on the engraving. i think the biggest factor in this whole thing is.I'm also afraid of losing half their gun in the process.
Marty Rabeno
- Thursday, May 06, 2004 at 09:35:14 (EDT)


Luis, I do a lot of restoration work for a gunsmith not too far away from me. More often than not, i will have him help we with those king of things, unless i am very familiar with the gun. I have gotten accustomed to his rates, so i usually try to figure that into the estimate. If I am not sure, i will ask him first, or just build a little extra in for suprises.probably a good idea all the time! I will also ask the customer to find a gunsmith at their end, if possible, so I just have to deal with the parts necessary for engraving. be careful though, since you may need some parts even if you won't be engraving them. For example, if you are engravg a 1911 grip frame, you will still need the grips to establish the boundaries of your engrving pattern. Hope this helps some. Tom
Tom McArdle <
gravertom@aol.com>
- Thursday, May 06, 2004 at 08:57:07 (EDT)


Gun Disassembly--Been thinking about this for a bit and I'm curious to know whether or not you disassemble a client's firearm for engraving or send it out to a gunsmith. If you do the work yourself how do you charge for it? While I'm a bit handy myself there are some firearms I'm really not too excited about trying to disassemble. Getting them apart might not be a big problem but reassembly sure would be. Any advice????
Luis Uzueta
North Pole, AK - Wednesday, May 05, 2004 at 19:45:49 (EDT)


Jerry, its a jewelers vise. i think the Ideal maybe the name of that vise.i have one and the name on it is the Special it is a very small vice maybe its only about 2or 3 lb. i think they were made in the 1800 or early 1900 not sure. do you have the whole vise or just the ball? i think they had names for the differant size vise . well thats all i know.. Curt
Curt Hanson
Hilo, Hawaii - Wednesday, May 05, 2004 at 19:05:38 (EDT)


If anyone has any information about an item that I have, I would really appreciate their help. The information on the item is The IDEAL* Keyless, A.D. MUEHLMATT MAKER, Cincinnati, O., #244. Any information would be greatly appreciated. Thank You.
Jerry K. Quick <
quickfamily47855@yahoo.com>
- Tuesday, May 04, 2004 at 23:31:13 (EDT)


I've been told that in general terms 400 series stainless is engravable and the 300 series is not. It sounds like you know about the 300 series.
Lee Griffiths
- Tuesday, May 04, 2004 at 08:44:51 (EDT)


The Guild will have a booth at the Vintagers National Side-by -Side Festival May 14-15-16, Quail Ridge Sportsman Culb in Sunman Indiana. We are still looking for help maning and displaying at the Guild booth. for info call Bob Strosin at 714-325-7550 Bob
Bob Strosin <
res@tznet.com>
Wis. Rapids, WI 715-325-7550 - Tuesday, May 04, 2004 at 07:56:58 (EDT)


ITEM WANTED. I noticed in my previous ad, I put in the words "Air Compression". It should be Sil-Air Air Compressor 1/2 hp. www.krparkes.com
Kelly Parkes <
studio@krparkes.com>
Vancouver, BC 604-687-4661 - Tuesday, May 04, 2004 at 02:32:59 (EDT)


ITEM WANTED. I am a hand engraver in Vancouver, BC Canada. I am trying to locate a new Sil-Air Air Compression 1/2 hp, as the one I have now is too loud. I would like to find a Canadian supplier to avoid duties, etc. at the border. I have a website at www.krparkes.com which shows a sample of my craftsmanship.
Kelly Parkes <
studio@krparkes.com>
Vancouver, BC 604-687-4661 - Tuesday, May 04, 2004 at 02:23:30 (EDT)


Of all the diffrent types of stainless steels which is the best (easist) for engravering? I've tried 316L and 304 but they were not easy, tough on the engraver tool! Thanks
Paul Holzweiss <
pholzwei@yahoo.com>
Essex Junction, VT - Monday, May 03, 2004 at 14:55:32 (EDT)


Hi, Im practising inlays (copper on "L" shaped iron bar by now), and I want to know about sharpening chisels or gravers to make the initial square groove. Any tip will be wellcome! Any picture of the shape of these chisels will be great!! thank you all. Alberto. aalv2003@adinet.com.uy
Alberto Lombide <
aalv2003@adinet.com.uy>
Montevideo, 59825091856 - Sunday, May 02, 2004 at 21:39:00 (EDT)


Thanks for the response, Sam. I suspected that engraving through plating was not a good idea. Just thought I would check with the experts. Thanks.
Scott Caudle
San Angelo, TX - Sunday, May 02, 2004 at 14:10:39 (EDT)


Scott, most stainless steel alloys are non-magnetic. The dark backgrounds are likey ink or some other application. The nickel plating won't blue but heat can discolor the plating. Engraving thru plating isn't a good idea as you are likely to get some chipping or flaking of the plating. Sam
Sam Welch
UT - Sunday, May 02, 2004 at 12:19:26 (EDT)


How can you tell if a piece is stainless steel or just nickel plated? Can you engrave a piece that has plating or does the plating have to be removed? I have seen the pieces that are silver with black engraving. Is the black a filler or is it a bluing that has been done after the job has been nickel plated?
Scott Caudle
San Angelo, TX - Friday, April 30, 2004 at 18:42:55 (EDT)


hey Wayne, welcome to the forum! This is a good forum, but the activity varies. generally if people ask questions or start discussions, things happen for a while, and then there will be a lull. The order sheet I have for the tapes says members only . maybe they will be offered to the public later. Hopefully, someone who knows will chime in and clarify that. I hope you will consider joing FEGA and participating here, as your position in the industry would give you insights and experiences that many of us do not have.I will try and start a topic that you would know a lot about. What do you see as far as trends in handgun engraving? certain styles of scroll work requested, certain types of guns people most often ask to have engraved? Is bulino being requested more on handguns, or less than before? Thanks! Tom
Tom McArdle <
tom@mcardleshandengraving.com>
- Thursday, April 29, 2004 at 22:35:53 (EDT)


Hello guys,im the fulltime master engraver at SMITH&WESSON,why they give me that title i have no idea,but anyways...i was just wondering if this forum is any good or not?....also,could anyone tell me how to aquire the tapes on bulino from chris decamillus seminar for fega?
Wayne A. D;Angelo <
lisa.dangelo2@verizon.net>
spfld., MA. 01118 - Thursday, April 29, 2004 at 20:31:12 (EDT)


I would like to get started hand engraving certain stainless parts. Is there anyone who would like to inform this newbie of the best equipment and instructional manuals to get starrted with ? Thanx!
Rick Johnson <
geezer2u@Yahoo.com>
Denver, Colorado - Thursday, April 29, 2004 at 12:39:23 (EDT)


Hello all, being a realative newbie to the trade I must say I thouroughly enjoyed reading through the forum. The knowledge here shows,thanks to all who contribute.What a great learning tool! the last post has me scratching my skull,all I can deduce is romanic numerals?:O) does anyone here have any advice or expirence inlaying niobium wire? Any tricks I am missing would be a blessing. Thanks.
Wade Hendrickson <
zazajenz@hotmail.com>
Carrollton, Texas 469-522-0831 - Thursday, April 29, 2004 at 12:19:44 (EDT)


HAND ENGRAVER EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITY: A.Jaffe a fine gold,diamond and platinum bridal jewelry maunufacturer located in New York City has a position available for an experienced hand engraver. This is a full time position with benefits. Interested individuals should contact me, Ken Karlin, at 212-843-7464 x-224
Kenneth Karlin <
ken.karlin@thering.com>
New York, NY 212-843-7464 - Wednesday, April 28, 2004 at 12:53:20 (EDT)


GRS sells several differnt style fancy nameplates, that are made of thick brass, that they cut out themselves. Don't know who the UK supplier for them is, but I guess you can scope it out Good luck!
Scott Pilkington <
www.pilkguns.com>
- Wednesday, April 28, 2004 at 12:50:54 (EDT)


Anyone heard of LARRY ROE or any of his work? He died in 1969. Primary work was firearms in the midwest and around Washington DC.
Gary <
growe@mtco.com>
Peoria, Il 309-453-2211 - Tuesday, April 27, 2004 at 16:09:43 (EDT)


I have a collection of GRS equipment for sale. Initially, it was thought to be sold until I found out that I was being set up for a money scam. Beware, there are people using this board for their money scams. They start off telling you that they are living overseas temporarily and will have a client of theirs (or distributor) send you a cashiers check for the equipment. They may even tell you they may need to overpay for the item and for you to refund the client the difference. I almost fell for it - thank goodness for my bank's advice - it was timely. Anyway, my equipment is back for sale. It has been babied and stored in a smoke free environment - climate controlled. All in excellent condition. GRS Gravermax - 20 hours of operation GRS Magna Block - 20 hours of operation - with the normal attachments. GRS 901 Small handpiece - new - 1 hour of operation GRS standard large handpiece - 20 hours over 20 quick change attachments and gravers (flat/round gravers all preshaped)(18-10 liner used once) GRS 1200 grit wheel new - used twice GRS 600 grit wheel - 20 hours GRS blank wheel used 1 time GRS ceramic lap wheel used 1 time GRS Diamond spray - sprayed less than 5 times - full. GRS Power hone - 20 hours GRS Sharpening Fixture - 20 hours Firm $1795 - I don't want to break up the package. Buyer will need to figure in additional shipping charges. Most of the items are half the price of the retail from GRS. Great for a class room or extra backup equip. or for someone not wanting to pay near $2800 My Ebay name is net-sales check me out, I have 288 feedbacks all positive) you can verify that my email is the same. Thanks for your interest.
Craig Griffith <
directads@flash.net>
garland, tx 972-226-3516 - Tuesday, April 27, 2004 at 15:34:53 (EDT)


I am constructing a turntable for my microscope engraving. I have 3 pieces of 12" dia by 1/4 thick steel diamond plate that were sent by the steel vendor by mistake. Anyone interested, please send me a mail. My table is mounted on 1" dia ball bearing pillow blocks which are fastened to an angle iron frame. The 12" dia plate is fastened to a 3" dia by 1" thick CRS with a 1" hole for an 18" long piece of 1"CRS. I turn my table with my hand rather than with my foot. The diamond plate can be used on the bottom for foot turning or smooth side up for the engraving vise. This is a very rigid setup and good for engraving at higher magnifications. --Art
Art Gaudette <
artg26@cox.net>
Phoenix, AZ 480-460-2464 - Tuesday, April 27, 2004 at 08:44:56 (EDT)


To Jay in Sandusky, Ohio: Pick up the book "The Art of Engraving" by James B. Meek. It's a pretty comprehensive book that most of us own (and have worn out). Any other questions, give a call.
Brian Powley <
brian@powleyengraving.com>
- Tuesday, April 27, 2004 at 07:33:08 (EDT)


KEHUIJIE (SHENZHEN) ELECTRONIC SCALE LTD, an enterprise leads the field of the electronic scale in China. We make and sell Body Scale, Kitchen Scale, Pocket Scale and Balance. All products have received ISO 9001 Quality Certificate and CE Certificate. For more details, visit www.szkhj.com please.
Joe Wong <
khj@szkhj.com>
Shenzhen, Guangdong 86-755-82096161 - Tuesday, April 27, 2004 at 02:49:12 (EDT)


Am trying to find a copy of the GRS instructional video on graver sharpening - can anyone help this isolated Kiwi at the far end of the world please?
Paul Fleming <
free_spirit07@hotmail.com>
Christchurch, New Zealand, 0064-3-355-3232 - Monday, April 26, 2004 at 06:39:52 (EDT)


Erin, try Boone Trading Co. in WA state. They might know something about them. A google search should find them for you.
Sam Welch
UT - Sunday, April 25, 2004 at 23:16:32 (EDT)


PLEASE HELP!!! Have been handed old (1800's) ivory Japanese (Osaka?) engraved beads. They are lined and the detail is incredible. Trying to research with NO luck!!! Could use some help if there is any out there. There are about 12 beads in all and all are quite unique. Two are very distinguished. Has engraving of two water birds and plants... the other looks like a water dragon with a bird. Any help is much appreciated.
Erin Ward <
heyoka77@yahoo.com>
Sanford, FL 32773 - Sunday, April 25, 2004 at 23:09:29 (EDT)


i would like to know what to start out with when getting into engraving,i dont have that much money but im wildlife artist and i do portraits,how would i go about getting into this field
jay
sandusky , ohio - Thursday, April 22, 2004 at 11:50:40 (EDT)


i love this sit mugu man stay cooooooooooooooolllllllllllllllll
driver mugu <
driver@mugu.com>
va, usa 20-623-457-339 - Wednesday, April 21, 2004 at 09:20:54 (EDT)


Gravermax for sale. 3 old style hand pcs,footpedal. Just refurb'd by GRS please contact me at 214-750-7560.
Steve Coben <
esscee@swbell.net>
214- 750-7560 - Tuesday, April 20, 2004 at 23:36:35 (EDT)


Hello to all squinty-eyed chip makers. I'm selling a Graver-max(just gone over by GRS) w/ 3 old style hand pcs. Asking 1000.00. I'm in Dallas Tx area but will pack securely and ship to you. please call 214) 750-7560.
Steve Coben <
Esscee @ swbell.net>
Dallas, Tx - Tuesday, April 20, 2004 at 23:32:24 (EDT)



Looking for contact information for Richard Roy who does engraving for Galazan -C.S.M.C. thanks! JBP
J.B.Patton <
jpatt1@uis.edu>
- Friday, April 16, 2004 at 10:38:09 (EDT)


ENGRAVERS WANTED! Notice to all FEGA members. There is notice in the "members only" section of the site for possible engraving work. Be sure to check it out.
Firearms Engravers Guild of America
- Friday, April 16, 2004 at 08:11:54 (EDT)


Sorry, that was acetone, not acetate. Sam
Sam Welch
UT - Wednesday, April 14, 2004 at 22:54:03 (EDT)


Cronite sells the "chip out ground". www.cronite.com is their web site. Hazardous shipping charges are high! John, I dipped a very small brush into acetate for cleaning between dips into the ground. This helped the drying syndrome a lot. I let the ground dry overnight and then was able to "rub off" with a toothpick where I got ground in an unwanted area. I think you are supposed to be able to heat the applied ground to harden it and then chip it off where you want. Hope someone that knows the proper use will chime in. Sam
Sam Welch
UT - Wednesday, April 14, 2004 at 22:53:03 (EDT)


Thanks Sam - I'll have to try your rust remover. What are you (and others) using to apply whatever masking agent they're using? Sometimes, at least with the nail polish, the polish thickens up pretty quick and makes real fine details harder to mask. The toothpick or even a split toothpick works the best for me so far. Thanks again for your help. John
John Vukos <
jvukos@new.rr.com>
Neenah, WI - Wednesday, April 14, 2004 at 19:05:41 (EDT)


Sam, who sells the chip-out ground? Thanks, Shawn
Shawn Swafford
- Wednesday, April 14, 2004 at 18:50:56 (EDT)


John, I talked with Eric about how he did that greying and frankly I don't plan to be that mean to myself...and doubt you would care to either. The best way I have tried is to selectively grey after bluing, whether rust blue or hot blue. Naval Jelly works but I can never get a smooth grey. There always seems to be some mottling of the grey that takes a large amount of elbow grease with a pink pearl eraser to smooth out. The latest piece I just finished had a lot of grey area. I protected the blue with chip-out ground, tho other things such as the nail polish seem to work well. Instead of using Naval Jelly I used OxiSolv which is a rust remover that is sold by www.eastwood.com for the old car restoration crowd (one of my downfall tendencies) and I was real pleased with the way it worked. Just a few minutes keeping the area moist with a q-tip and the blue vanished and only a few moments with a pink pearl eraser to clean it up for a very smooth "coin" finish. The items were hot blued so the finish is more of a coin finish than grey. If the parts had been rust blued, the pitting action of the rust blue would likey have caused a more grey look. OxiSolv is about $16.00 per quart,and is non-flamable, non-toxic and non-caustic. Sam
Sam Welch
UT - Wednesday, April 14, 2004 at 17:44:11 (EDT)


RE. the graying - I meant that I don't think I'm using the best method - I'm sure there's better ways of doing it than how I'm doing selective graying.
John Vukos <
jvukos@new.rr.com>
Neenah, WI - Wednesday, April 14, 2004 at 13:30:15 (EDT)


I was just looking at the cover of the latest Engraver and really admiring the job Eric Gold did on this rifle. I especially like the selectively grayed look. I've done selective graying, but I'm wondering if I'm using the most efficient method. I've been doing the engraving, then bluing everything, then using naval jelly to gray the complete piece - then I mask the engraving with red nail polish using a toothpick or other fine pointed tools, and then reblue. It works, but I don't know if I could get the super fine, thin lines of scrollwork grayed like Eric did. Any advice on a better way to do this? Thanks, John
John Vukos <
jvukos@new.rr.com>
Neenah, WI - Wednesday, April 14, 2004 at 12:58:27 (EDT)


For Sale: GRS Magnablock $350+$25.00 shipping. Block is in .like new condition.I have gone to a positioning vise. If interested please e-mail me. Thanks, Robert
Robert Vaughn <
sam01@zianet.com>
Deming, NM 88030 505 546-9144 - Tuesday, April 13, 2004 at 18:33:06 (EDT)


For Sale: Complete ParaPack and ParaBlast sets. Used very little. Cost over $5000.00. Make reasonable offer. All the goodies. Engraving and Sand Blasting. Compressor, cases, bits, blast cabinet, pressure pot, hand piece, turbine, regulator/oiler, videos and more accessories.
Bruce Nutt <
gbnutt@hotmail.com>
Brigham City, UT 435-723-3657 - Monday, April 12, 2004 at 01:20:35 (EDT)


I have just acquired an Arnold Griebel engraved Model 32 Remington but can't remember what reference to Griebel I remember recently reading in Double Gun Journal or similar publication. Can someone email me with any info. I recently provided a reference to an internet inquiry about Griebel's obituary by John Amber, but I can't locate that either. Thank you for any Griebel info. Bill Murphy wilmrph@comcast.net
Bill Murphy <
wilmrph@comcast.net>
Clarksburg, MD 20871 301-972-0740 - Sunday, April 11, 2004 at 14:40:31 (EDT)


I want to thank Scott Pilkington for the good advice he gave me last June on this forum. I asked about getting mirror bright cuts on platinum and was advised to try aluminum tap magic oil which helped a bunch and to use carbide engravers to avoid having the platinum cold weld to the graver tip. I waited a while to try the carbide engravers because of the extra difficulty in sharpening and polishing carbide. One day I finally combined all the diamond tools in my studio from an 8" 220 diamond wheel on my lapidary to a 600 grit diamond file and ended up putting the final polish on the tool with a little mounted diamond polishing wheel in a flex shaft tool. I made a flat and a square graver and now feel completely satisfied with the potential of carbide and platinum which seemed to be made for each other. I am getting the mirror bright cuts I've always wanted. Thanks for one of the best tips of my career, and it was free on the internet!
James Roettger
Mpls. , MN - Saturday, April 10, 2004 at 18:41:10 (EDT)


I am a TOTAL NEWBIE TO THIS AND IT TOTALLY FASCINATES ME!!!!! Where can I get some good reference material to read (I.E. magazines, books ,tapes and websites) I have the money to buy a machine just want to get started but need more info. By chance does anybody know if there is anybody who teaches classes on this in the state of Illinois?? Any help is TRULY APPRECIATED!!!! Thank You, Mark Hall
Mark Hall <
ox31@charter.com>
Granite City, IL - Thursday, April 08, 2004 at 11:52:28 (EDT)


Thanks Tom Just today I ground down a carbide drill and it seems to work. But it sure isn't like cutting butter:) Forming a carbide graver is an experience in itself. It sure would be a much more enjoyable project if the gun was a little softer.
mike cirelli <
gldsmith@ccia.com>
beaver, pa 15009 - Tuesday, April 06, 2004 at 17:28:17 (EDT)


Michael, shooting the gun will not soften the slide, at least that is not a phenomenon that I am aware of. You may want to contact S&W themselves, and see what they advise. Also, what type of gravers are you using? A carbide or cobalt carbide type graver may give better results than traditional tool steel gravers. Take care, Tom
Tom McArdle <
tom@mcardleshandengraving.com>
- Tuesday, April 06, 2004 at 15:49:00 (EDT)


I have a Walther .380 S & W stainless that I started engraving, but it's hard as a rock. Can I have it annealed or would shooting a couple boxes of shells thru it soften it up a bit.
Michael Cirelli <
gldsmith@ccia.com>
beaver, pa 724-728-1411 - Tuesday, April 06, 2004 at 08:21:29 (EDT)


Wanted expert engraver to fix a slightly pitted Perazzi mx-8 action.Need to add additional scrolls/border and recut dog
Lambjohnson <
lambjohnson@aol.com>
pbg, fl 561 818 3625 - Monday, April 05, 2004 at 20:35:01 (EDT)


Paul, Bulino is one of those elastic terms in the engraving world that gets used for two different tequniques, all dots "pointalism" or very fine lines , also called banknote style. Either can be done very well with a square graver blank, all though some might prefer an ongletter or knife for either as well. I would recommend that you get a copy of Chris DeCamillus's bulino seminar tape that Sam Welch reviewed just below your post. Good Luck with it
Scott Pilkington <
www.pilkguns.com>
- Monday, April 05, 2004 at 20:06:09 (EDT)


Info Needed-A good friend has a engraving vise which needs a base and the top part,above the vise.It is an AD Muehlmatt #122 The Victor of Cinninatti,Ohio.Can anyone please email me contact information for this company please,phone number too?We do appreciate any and all help!
Jeff Stamper <
flintlock4054@yahoo.com>
Marion, Virginia 276-783-9746 - Monday, April 05, 2004 at 11:48:45 (EDT)


Hey can someone tell me what shape a graver is to use for Bulino engraveing? Thanks
Paul Holzweiss <
pholzwei@yahoo.com>
Essex Junction, VT - Monday, April 05, 2004 at 11:34:09 (EDT)


I just had the opportunity to preview the two seminar tapes from the 2004 Reno show. Those who were there may or may not have noted that Scott Pilkington ran out of time before getting into the major portion of his seminar on scroll history, design and layout. Scott went the "extra mile" when he got home and taped the rest of his seminar, doing a very nice job of presentation on how he designs and lays out scroll patterns. This was provided to Eric and included in Scott's FEGA semnar tape. Christain's seminar on bulino engraving was so well done and so packed with the information we all have been looking for that it is in a class of its own. This one is a "must have" tape and you will want to watch it several times in order to assimilate all the info and you will want to purchase from FEGA the casting of the wood duck engraving Chris did for the seminar. The upcoming newsletter will have all the ordering info. There will be a special member price for the set of tapes with a deadline of mid May. Non members will be able to order using the order form for tapes that is on the FEGA website. Shipping is expected to start mid May. I can highly recommend both tapes. Enjoy!
Sam Welch
UT - Wednesday, March 31, 2004 at 18:51:43 (EST)


Jerry...and all...I just finished previewing the seminar tapes and will post my impressions and other info later today. Hang in!
Sam Welch
Castle Valley, UT - Wednesday, March 31, 2004 at 09:43:25 (EST)


Identification of Relief-Engraved Mod 586 .357 Revolver I would appreciate any assistance as to the identification of the engraver who executed this fine revolver I have just acquired. one would wish to acquire. This Smith & Wesson Model 586 .357 revolver (sn ADD9137 was manufactured circa 1983). . The gun is completely covered overall with deep, leaf-scroll engraving with etched background. The gun has blued finish and trigger and trigger and hammer are case color hardened. The S & W decal on frame is surrounded by engarving patterns and the gun is fitted with two-tone combination wood/stag grips with S & W decal inset in them. When grips are removed the artist who engraved the piece inscribed his initials and date “H.L.G.-1984” inside and on inside of grips is a stamped date with presumably the engravers trademark in ink . I do not know if this is factory engraving or not. If anyone can identify the engraver I would much appreciate it. If images do not show up I can send them to any party. Thank you. John cwlopi@aol.com
John Hansen <
cwlopi@aol.com>
Southport, CT 203-259-7337 - Sunday, March 28, 2004 at 10:17:02 (EST)


I want the tape of De Camillas's bolino engraving presentation at the guild show in 2004 plus the little casting that goes with it or the one that he was selling at the show. HOW CAN I GET THEM? jwh-flintlocks@yahoo.com
Jerry Huddleston <
huddlestonjerry@msn.com>
Baker City, Or. 5415232593 - Sunday, March 28, 2004 at 01:49:47 (EST)


There may be more than one book using the words Waffen Gravuren in the title but the one I bought has excellent pictures of deep relief modeled engraving and I believe I bought it from the inventory of Cape Outfitters which you can find online.
Lou Levy <
lulevy@pol.net>
Rocky Mount, NC 27804 2524435911 - Friday, March 26, 2004 at 15:28:21 (EST)


Just wanted to post a thank you for those who recommended Johnny Weyert engraving school. I attended in February and have never learned more in a 5 day school. On top of that Johnny is truly a gentleman and scholar. Again, thanks. On another note, I may be in the market for a GRS Gravermax. I have a system 3 that will be for sale if I can find a gmax I can afford. Thanks, D.C. Lance
D.C. Lance <
dcdadoc@yahoo.com >
Amarillo, TX 806/354-0057 - Friday, March 26, 2004 at 03:05:23 (EST)


Has anybody had experience engraving Para ordinance LDA or seen work done on them? Thanks, Mark
Mark Bell <
engraver@sbcglobal.net>
Simi Valley, CA 93063 - Saturday, March 20, 2004 at 02:38:26 (EST)


I started engraving years ago and gave it up because of the lack of training. Now that I'm retired (56 yrs old), I would like to get back into it. Is anyone helping novices with the mechanics of engraving out there? I am artistic, though no Rembrandt or DaVinci, and traveling a short distance, up to three hundred miles, could be arranged for quality instruction. My being on a fixed income needs to be considered. Please respond via e-mail or telephone.
Bill Moody <
Moody97@earthlink.net>
Eden, NC 336-623-8684 - Thursday, March 18, 2004 at 22:47:33 (EST)


I have a very old wood engraved 3d picture of a monk in a medieval wine cellar approx 23"x16"x2 1/2" signed by Lee Breen could someone tell me where i can get an appraisal ,Thank you Steve joiner_275@msn.com
Steve <
joiner_275@msn,com>
- Wednesday, March 17, 2004 at 19:42:59 (EST)


New to engraving and am wondering what a good work bench for engraving looks like. As a wood craver I am use to stand at a tall heavy wooden bench but engraving seems to be diferent. Any commerical benches out there. Thanks Rick
Rick Read <
rread@mindspring.com>
Stone Mountain, Ga - Wednesday, March 17, 2004 at 00:09:26 (EST)


Thanks, Jerry. I appreciate the help. I ordered one from Germany. Shawn
Shawn Swafford
- Monday, March 15, 2004 at 22:52:11 (EST)


Shawn. there are no copies for sale in the USA that I know of. Go to ABE book site on the net. and look under the authre in stead of the title. there are some for sale in Germany. see below. The book is in German. 7. Goldschmidt, Friedrich Künstlerische Waffengravuren Ferlacher Meister. Schwäbisch-Hall, Journal-Verlag Schwend, 1977. 2. Aufl. Mit zahlr. farb. u. schw.-w. Abb. Quart. 269 S. KLdr. mit Umschl. 1450gr. nahezu neuwertig. Bookseller Inventory #7319 Price: US$ 50.22 (Convert Currency) Bookseller: Antiquariat am St. Vith, Mönchengladbach, Germany (Search this Seller's Books)(Ask Bookseller a Question)
jerry huddleston <
huddlestonjerrt@msn.com>
baker city, or. 541523 2593 - Monday, March 15, 2004 at 20:17:43 (EST)


Shawn: Try Ray Riling Arms Books Co...www.rayrilingarmsbooks.com..phone (215)438-2456
JJ Roberts <
jjrengraver@aol.com>
- Saturday, March 13, 2004 at 17:37:50 (EST)


Hello, Lee. I'll check them out. Many thanks. Shawn
Shawn Swafford <
ringneck16@cox.net>
- Saturday, March 13, 2004 at 12:42:00 (EST)


Shawn, You can try Jeff's Outfitters or Gunnerman Books. I don't know whether they have it but they do have a number of books on engraving. Lee
Lee Griffiths
- Saturday, March 13, 2004 at 12:25:25 (EST)


Does anyone know where I can find the book Waffen Gravuren? Thanks, Shawn
Shawn Swafford
- Saturday, March 13, 2004 at 02:03:35 (EST)


Does anyone know what happened to Custom Engravers in North Attleboro, Massachusetts. They have a gone out of business or were sold. I had a two color die they made on file at the store. Please call me if you have any information. Thank you JA Carroll
J.S. Carroll <
papersri@cox.net>
Newport, RI 401 847 1777 - Wednesday, March 10, 2004 at 20:44:53 (EST)


i am looking for material such as nickel or pewter to enlay into a rustic bar. bar is made of oak and hickory. thanks
bill owens <
brcon@cneconnect.com>
- Saturday, March 06, 2004 at 14:32:21 (EST)


I am organizing a senior gift with my class at my high school. We are considering raising money for a wooden bench, and would want our names engraved into it. Would anyone know of a company able to do this cheap?
Sarah <
eyesis666@yahoo.com>
N.O., LA - Thursday, March 04, 2004 at 00:50:56 (EST)


I was wondering if someone had some suggestions on how i could ingrave wedding invatations....I have thought about using carbon but i really dotn know much about engraving or what to use...thank you for your help!!!
star <
starbylight@hotmail.com>
- Monday, March 01, 2004 at 16:43:54 (EST)


Sam. The carbide worked pretty good. I got the job done and it came out looking very nice. Since then Robert Evans gave me a new piece of steel engraver that GRS. has out grs7 or something like that is the number. I haven't tried it on hard metal but on soft steel you can put a point of 35 deg on it and push it right into the metal like a sewing needle. It is amazing. I may be nuts but I hear\ted up the carbide to a red heat and let it cool slow and I think it helped hold up longer without the tip breaking .I really appreciate your advise Sam and the other guys also .I read the forum every day to pick up on the advise you give to other people also. Jerry Huddleston.
jerry huddleston. <
huddlestonjerry@msn.com>
Baker City, OR. 5415232593 - Monday, March 01, 2004 at 00:15:51 (EST)


Luis, Brian has it about right. First, be careful where you try to engrave as it might come back to haunt you. Bent gravers were and I suppose still are available from suppliers tho I don't have any that I use. I tend to stay away from deep concave areas. I draw the scroll or whatever on the steel which helps to cut from different directions and "meet up" in the center. A little practice and this works well. I also put a steeper heel on my tool when working concave areas to help lift the back of the tool. It takes longer to work concave areas but they can be done nicely.
Sam Welch
UT - Saturday, February 28, 2004 at 22:14:45 (EST)


To Luis: Engraving the inside of the grip frame is a time consuming venture and one that I don't have much experience at. I've heated ,bent, and re hardened gravers for those jobs, but found that it gives me somewhat unsatisfactory results. My best results were from just spending massive amounts of time working the scrolls from both directions and (hopefully) meeting in the middle with perfect (?) alignment. I've always tried to stay away from the extremely "tight" areas. Let's hope someone with more experience than I have can chime in to shed more light on this subject. It's a tough one, indeed. Best of luck.
Brian Powley <
brian@powleyengraving.com>
- Friday, February 27, 2004 at 20:36:27 (EST)


Brian: Thanks for the response. Gonna have to try that. Now that we're on the subject, how do you go about engraving the inside of the grip frame? Do you have to bend a graver to get the clearance you need? If so, how do you maintain the graver's hardness? Sorry about so many questions but it is a puzzlement. Luis
Luis Uzueta <
poco@gci.net>
North Pole, AK - Friday, February 27, 2004 at 18:32:38 (EST)


Jerry, how did the gold inlay work for you? Dennis and JJ etc...I made a tool from the saw blade and gave it a try today. It was not quite as good as the carbide I have been using. At least not with my gravermeister and technique. It is a very hard metal and may work as good or better in the softer steels. I tried it on a Win. M-70 frame which is very tough metal. I still want to try it for bulino and in softer steel to see if the point holds up better than carbide. Sam
Sam Welch
UT - Friday, February 27, 2004 at 17:57:33 (EST)


To Luis Uzueta on your Ruger Vaquero: Your best bet to remove the "Warning Book" stamped on the barrel is to have your gunsmith unscrew the barrel, remove the front sight and then use a barrel spinner to remove the stampings. The front sight is easily re-installed, via silver solder, into its slot. Most gunsmiths are very experienced with silver soldering. I would stay away from draw filing.....you might make a noticeable flat spot on that round barrel. The "spinning" process will reduce the overall diameter of the barrel slightly (maybe .015") and the ejector rod housing will screw back on without a problem. No one will notice the slight difference in the contours and it won't matter either. Since you will have the barrel off of the gun, it will also be easier to engrave without that big frame in your way. The front sight slot will give you an "index" for centerline referencing. My SS Vaquero looks great without that warning book all over the barrel.
Brian Powley
- Friday, February 27, 2004 at 07:37:34 (EST)


Wish I had been able to attend the Reno Show. Unfortunately, couldn't quite swing it this year. Been working on my Ruger Vaquero as a practice piece and I'm now confronted with the barrel and it's massively intrusive inscription. How do other's deal with this problem. Initial thought revolves around pulling the barrel and draw filing the inscription out of existence. But, a gunsmith friend tells me the front sight is almost brazed on and would be a bear to replace. Is this so? Also, what's a simple way to establish a center line down the length of it. I can come close but my nature rebels and yells for precision. Hmmm?
Luis Uzueta <
poco@gci.net>
North Pole, AK - Thursday, February 26, 2004 at 20:30:25 (EST)


Ian, I would be glad to answer what questions I can. Where are you located, I will be in london mid may. Regards,Barry
barry Lee Hands <
baerzo@hotmail.com>
- Wednesday, February 25, 2004 at 11:04:49 (EST)


Also, I have a tape from RF Ford in Texas on how to make spurs (very good). I also have 3 Jerimiah Watt tapes on making spurs to how to engrave. Thanks.
Craig Griffith <
directads@flash.net>
rowlett, tx 972-226-3516 - Monday, February 23, 2004 at 11:47:38 (EST)


I have a GRS Gravermax for sell. I also am selling my GRS heavy engraving ball and the sharpening machine. I have many accessories and the angle tool for the sharpening machine. The condition is excellent. I have only used this equipment on 10 pairs of spurs - silver engraving. It was bought in 1998 and stored inside my house very carefully. I will send pics if interested. (972) 226-3516 Craig
Craig Griffith <
directads@flash.net>
rowlett, tx 972-2236-3516 - Monday, February 23, 2004 at 11:37:35 (EST)


hi all Is there anyone out there willing to guyed me in hand engraving,I have just ordered some hand gravers from the usa.which am looking forward to holdinging and having a go at some metal ect.but over here in england there does,nt seem to be many hand engravers and even less willing to help.all I'm after is a person with patience who can answer my e-mails.hope some one can help regards ian uk
ian <
tp001b8050@blueyonder.co.uk>
01744 634688 - Monday, February 23, 2004 at 10:31:20 (EST)


I have read James Meek's book The Art of Engraving several times and practiced many hours on my Gravermaster. I'm conserned, in regards to Engraving Script, I'm left handed, is there any differance in my direction of cuts, when doing it all with my left hand? Any and all suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks, Don
Don Rodgers <
dbrodgers@sbcglobal.net>
Oklahoma City, Okla. (405)640-2858 - Monday, February 23, 2004 at 10:00:58 (EST)


John Stringer, A competent knifemaker can anneal a colt frame. the frame is wrapped in stainless or titanium foil with a bit of paper to reduce oxidation. the part is then heated to a critical temp, and allowed to cool slowly. Colt did not use to harden the blued frames, but I have been told liability is on the last guy to work on the gun. If you have an ffl, the NRA has a good insurance program. never anneal cylinders or lock parts. regards, Barry
barry
USA - Sunday, February 22, 2004 at 22:23:39 (EST)


I could use some help on styles of engraving found on Remington model 32's. books,places to look Ect.
Steve Teichman <
steichman@starband.net>
Unionville, pa 610-637-3589 - Sunday, February 22, 2004 at 17:36:39 (EST)


Sandy...If you are looking for an inexpensive tool you might want to try the NGraver Company in Connecticut. They put out an electric engraving tool called The Magnagraver Vari-Pact. The owner of the company is Ray Phillips..tele.# is 1-860-823-1533. You can reach him 9-5 est. He will be glad to help you with any questions. You might want to ask him about his catalog.
JJ Roberts
Manassas, VA - Sunday, February 22, 2004 at 05:16:50 (EST)


My husband has been engraving and etching for about 3 years now and has used both the Paragraver and the Powercraft high speed tools but is looking for other sources for these devices. The lesser expensive of the two has a bearing of some kind that keeps going out and has to be replaced quite often at $100 a shot and the other more expensive model runs about $300 but it doesn't last too long either. They both run about 400,000 RPM's and work off his compressor. Anybody have any other sources? I would appreciate the help. Thanks!
Sandy <
nwfountaindesign@aol.com>
Ketchikan, Alaska 907-723-3094 - Sunday, February 22, 2004 at 04:47:14 (EST)


I have posted some pictures on men engravers forums any comments woould be welcomed.Joe
Joe Cera <
joe@ceraswaxes.com>
Elkhart , In - Friday, February 20, 2004 at 07:36:10 (EST)


A big thank you to all of you that e-mailed me with information on western style engraving. I'm sure that what info was sent will help me get to the next step. thank you all again-sherry.
sherry <
sjcarman@flash.net>
616-0567 - Monday, February 16, 2004 at 19:35:08 (EST)


Gretchen, sounds like you are need of a woodcarver not an engraver, although for what you are wanting, probably the fastest, cheapest and easiest thing you could do is go to a trophy shop, and have them laser cut what you want into the wood. Just about any bigger trophy shop will have that these days
pilkguns
- Monday, February 16, 2004 at 11:41:27 (EST)


I am turning my living room into a small in-house chapel. Over the entrance, I want a rectangular strip of wood engraved to say the following: "As for me and my house, we will serve the Lord." I also plan to have an alter, over which I would also like engraved in wood the following: "Except the Lord build the house, it will not prosper." I have inquired around the Atlanta, Ga area where I live, but I have not been successful at finding an engraver to do the job. Can anyone HELP!!!! Thank you.
GRETCHEN WHITE <
GEGGYMAE@YAHOO.COM>
ATLANTA, GA 30331 404/696-2291 - Sunday, February 15, 2004 at 09:34:31 (EST)


I am turning my living room into a small in-house chapel. Over the entrance, I want a rectangular strip of wood engraved to say the following: "As for me and my house, we will serve the Lord." I also plan to have an alter, over which I would also like engraved in wood the following: "Except the Lord build the house, it will not prosper." I have inquired around the Atlanta, Ga area where I live, but I have not been successful at finding an engraver to so the job. Can anyone HELP!!!! Thank you.
GRETCHEN WHITE <
GEGGYMAE@YAHOO.COM>
ATLANTA, GA 30331 404/696-2291 - Sunday, February 15, 2004 at 09:32:21 (EST)


Sherry, Check with Johny Weyerts (1-800-687-2969) or G.R.S.(www.GRStools.com) for classes on bright cut.
Jim
- Friday, February 13, 2004 at 09:36:09 (EST)


Would like to know about engraving color casehardened colt frames...how to anneal before engraving, and if I nickel after engraving...does the frame need to be re-hardened? Any advice will be greatly appreciated...thanx John
john stringer <
jws4570@hotmail.com>
george west, Texas 361-547-0472 - Thursday, February 12, 2004 at 16:22:43 (EST)


still need help on information for learning how to do western style engraving. any info would be appreciated. thank you---sherry.
sherry <
sjcarman@flash.net>
616-0567 - Thursday, February 12, 2004 at 13:07:06 (EST)


Thank you very much Sam. I will go at it tomorrow. It is so good to be in the guild and have all this help. I can't get over how good all the guys are .I tell people everywhere I go.
Jerry Huddleston <
huddlestonjerry@msn.com>
Baker City, Or. 541 523 2593 - Wednesday, February 11, 2004 at 03:01:21 (EST)


Jerry, for very small lettering I make a carbide chisel, small enough to fit the cuts, and "undercut" by pressing by hand down into the cuts, both sides of the cut. This is like the usual method of dovetailing with a chisel but the work is so small that very little pressure is needed to make the necssary dovetail. Use wire only a little larger than the cuts and press in with burnisher. You can do very tiny letters this way. Taught to me by one of my students in Susanville by the name of Joe On. See...you CAN teach an old dog new tricks.
Sam Welch
UT - Tuesday, February 10, 2004 at 22:33:39 (EST)


Here's a link to some photos from Reno. These are larger files, so your download time may vary if you are on a slow connection http://pilkguns.com/2004/renofega2004/index.htm
Scott Pilkington
- Tuesday, February 10, 2004 at 21:13:11 (EST)


Anybody ever engrave a Weatherby pot metal trigger guard? The gunsmith I work with says this one is pot metal. Thanks, John
John Vukos <
jvukos@new.rr.com>
WI - Tuesday, February 10, 2004 at 21:04:06 (EST)


I once heard Sam Welch say that he undercut small lines for inlaying gold with a scriber. I need some help here. I am doing very small letters in script and I cannot find a material or a design where the point will hold up for undercutting the letters especially on the tips of the E's and l's etc. Carbide seems to work better than anything but often breaks. HELP! HELP!
Jerry Huddleston <
huddlestonjerry@msn.com>
Baker City, Oregon 5415232593 - Tuesday, February 10, 2004 at 14:47:20 (EST)


Lee, please tell us what kind of equipment that was! I have been known to "rig" a few guns in my time too, esp. after rust blueing! Tom
Tom McArdle <
tom@mcardleshandengraving.com>
- Monday, February 09, 2004 at 18:08:18 (EST)


Dave Gantt, you can best start by getting a copy of James Meek's book The Art of Engraving and read it though a few times. This will give you the basic knowledge you need to set a course for the future. Available through Brownellss=.
Sam Welch
UT - Saturday, February 07, 2004 at 21:54:15 (EST)


need help---------i am looking to make ranger type buckles and need to know if anyone can offer information on hand engraving the western "bright cut". i am not able to find any patterns or designs on this. which tools to do the designs. Also where to find info on soldering silver---such as which solder,and do you use propane torches or a mixture? any info would be great. what books or videos would be the best to begin with? my libraries have no information at all. thanks----sj
sjcarman <
sjcarman@flash.net>
- Saturday, February 07, 2004 at 14:50:19 (EST)


I have been told that I need to anneal the frame on color cased colts..how is that done? after engraving, does the frame need to be re-hardened? Would like to know just what I need to do...Thanks
john stringer <
jws4570@hotmail.com>
george west, Texas 361-547-0472 - Saturday, February 07, 2004 at 14:42:55 (EST)


Being an avid shotgunner (s x s double variety) I have always admired the quality engraving on most of the guns I shoot. I would like to learn how to do this engraving. I'm looking for some direction as to where I might start. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED. Thank you.
Dave Gantt <
dgantt@msubobcats.com>
Bozeman, MT 406-585-7745 - Saturday, February 07, 2004 at 12:29:53 (EST)


Thank you for the kind comments Mr. President. I has been my great pleasure to work with my friends and fellow engravers during my years in FEGA. I'm confident that you and your board of officers and directors will continue to lead this guild in new and exciting directions.
Mike Dubber <
mwdub@aol.com>
- Friday, February 06, 2004 at 07:35:31 (EST)


I had asked for input on cutting a magnum research BFR before Christmas. I did get the job, and for future reference, the metal cut very well, maybe the easiest time I have had cutting stainless, whether the frame or the cylinder. Hope this helps someone in the future! take care,Tom
Tom McArdle <
tom@mcardleshandengraving.com>
- Thursday, February 05, 2004 at 09:22:44 (EST)


I would like to thank you for your vote of confidence in electing me President of the Firearms Engravers Guild of Am. This is a great honor and I do not take this position lightly. I was Treasurer of the Guild for 11 years so I know the amount of work the office of President will require. I look forward to working with the Board of Directors and all the members of the guild to keep FEGA moving forward as our past presidents have done. We have some big challenges to face, but we have a great board of Directors and a fantastic membership to overcome these challenges. I have appointed Manuel Gonzales to fill the remaining 1 year term as Treasurer. Please welcome Manuel. As Guild members we owe a great debt of gratitude to Mike Dubber. Mike has been a Board member, Editor,Vice President & President. The amount of hours that he has devoted to the Guild is unbelievable. Mike has been a cornerstone of the Guild for many years and an inspiration to us all. Thank you Mike. Bob Strosin
Bob Strosin <
RES@tznet.com>
Wis. Rapids, Wi, 54494 715-325-7550 - Monday, February 02, 2004 at 19:46:49 (EST)


Thank You all for the kind responses on the seminar, it made my efforts worthwile. I hope that with the new tecniques that you learned from the seminar that next year we will see some great bulino engraving at the show next year. Chris
Christian DeCamillis <
chrisdecamillis@hotmail.com>
- Monday, February 02, 2004 at 08:48:56 (EST)


I too, learned more from Chris than I have for a long time. Only problem is that the time allowed for the best seminars is usually too short!
Brian Marshall <
instructor@jewelryartschool>
Stockton, CA 209-477-0550 - Friday, January 30, 2004 at 11:51:05 (EST)


ADDING TO SAM WELCH'S COMMENTS: I urge every engraver to reserve a table next year, regardless of your skill level. This is the best arena to expand your engraving abilities, and you owe it to yourself to be there. No other venue will urge you to be the best you can be.Thousands of years of combined engraving experience right there in one room, and they are more than willing to answer any question asked of them. You can't afford not to be there. A big THANK YOU to Eric Gold, Sam Welch, Chris DeCamillis,Ron Smith,Roger Sampson,Bob Strosin, Marty Rabeno,Scott Pilkington,Mike Dubber,Mark Swanson, Lee Griffiths,Bill Gamradt,Jim Blair,Bob Evans,Doug Turnbull,Gil Rudolph,Johny Weyerts,for the generosity of your engraving knowledge.
Brian Powley
- Friday, January 30, 2004 at 08:57:02 (EST)


I just wanted to thank everyone involved with the show in Reno. The displays were simply spectacular. The artwork was not only beautiful to look at but also inspiring, especially for a newbie like me. Thanks also to all those who were so willing to critique my work and help me to improve. See you all again next year.
David Clevinger <
dcengraving@yahoo.com>
Wheat Ridge, CO - Thursday, January 29, 2004 at 19:52:46 (EST)


Thank both you fellows for the help. I guess I will call GRS and speak to the man you mentioned. maybe i will have luck and I will post the results for everyone to see.
jeffrey Howard <
hrd1@bellsouth.net>
- Thursday, January 29, 2004 at 11:27:29 (EST)


For those of you who were unable to attend the Reno show last week let me say that you missed something special. The siminars were well attended and excellent. I especially recommend that you buy the tape for Christian DeCamillis' siminar on bulino engraving. I think I learned more from it than any that I can remember. It was outstanding and my thanks to Chris for sharing the knowledge that he worked so hard to obtain.
Sam Welch
Castle Valley, UT - Thursday, January 29, 2004 at 10:28:16 (EST)


You should call grs and ask fo jb he is the tech support guy and he isnt there to sell anything. It sounds to me like the spring and break are still inside. when you removed the nut did you remove the spring and brake behind it? I think that if not the spring and break are jammed up against the center bearings since you removed the top portion of the vise. but call jb he can help you in deterining what has happened Christian
christian decamillis
- Thursday, January 29, 2004 at 09:10:54 (EST)


To Jeffery Howard: I have a similar problem with my positioning vise. The three bearings inside the vise are actually just two.....the top and bottom. The one in the middle is not a bearing. It is the area where the "drag" pin is forced against to reduce or eliminate "Freewheeling". It is supposed to be rock solid. My vise is older and used a nylon or teflon slip ring between the two halves of the vise. I understand that the newer vises now use a set of roller bearings where the old slip ring was. The roller bearing setup is adaptable to older vises, like mine. I just found out about it this past weekend, but haven't made the call to order them yet. Hope this helps.
Brian Powley
- Thursday, January 29, 2004 at 08:24:50 (EST)


I have a small problem I hope someone can help. I have a GRS positioning vise. When I got it, I set it down and loosened the braking nut all the way out and spun the top with my hand. The vise spun like a precision ball bearing around and around. Several several times. Fine Now I was cleaning all the packing grease off it, and I depressed the adjusting lever lever and the top of the vise moved to another position in the same direction as the vise was tilted. So I adjusted back center. The vise will No Longer Spin nice and freely as it did. When I now go to spin it, it barley makes one revolution and stops quickly. What Happened. The brake nut is out. I took the top off and the vise has three fat bearings with a bolt in the center. The top bearing spins freely and forever. The bottom one does also. But the center one is Lock tight. Will not move. Is that Normal. does that bolt need loosened? My question is....How do I get it back to the way it was. What happened? What do I do to adjust the Bearings? or Lever? Any info will be greatly appreciated. I havent call the GRS. when I do, they somehow always make me feel like I have to buy something to get tech support. At least thats how I have felt in the past. If anyone has any suggestions I would surely appreciate it. Those three stacked "roller skate" bearings seem like they all shoud spin and the middle one will not move. Other than that, it looks normal. Thanks everyone!
Jeffrey Howard <
hrd1@bellsouth.net>
- Wednesday, January 28, 2004 at 23:32:44 (EST)


Looking for an engraver to add a retirement message to an antique copper fire extinguisher. Email me with quote on price per word.
Janet <
skijan1012@wowway.com>
Napeville, IL - Wednesday, January 28, 2004 at 21:49:45 (EST)


Hi, I'm planning on moving to Seattle sometime soon and was wondering if any of you knew any hand engravers in that area. I'm in the jewelry design business and its been hard to find a hand engraver from that area. Thanks, Alec
Alec <
alec@handengraver.com>
Denver, CO - Friday, January 23, 2004 at 20:33:38 (EST)


Hi, Just thought i would introduce myself, my names stu and im the md of a company called mega creations. Engraving based,using the sandblasting method, we specialise in photoengraving ( have been doing it for 20 years), glass and granite,. We also manufacture masks ready to blast per customer spec! I didnt know if this would be of use to anyone, our website is www.megacreations.co.uk Kind Regards Stu Gebbie
Stuart Gebbie <
Stuart@megacreations.co.uk>
Cambridge, 01223 893900 - Thursday, January 22, 2004 at 09:18:41 (EST)


Hi all, Just an update.... I still have a sharpening fixture for GRS power hone (QC) and a large handpiece for Gravermate/Max but, The videos have been sold - Thanks all. -Chris
Chris Lowe <
chrislowe87@hotmail.com>
Burnt Hills, NY 12027 - Wednesday, January 21, 2004 at 17:39:17 (EST)


I carve 22ft TOTEM POLES anybody interested ? Hand done and creative. Contact me.
Charles K Giles <
boedar@hotmail.com>
Salisbury, MD. 410-677-0886 - Tuesday, January 20, 2004 at 16:12:25 (EST)


You can also order Ron's book directly from our guild. Just click on the BOOKS link and you can find an order form.
Marty Rabeno
- Tuesday, January 20, 2004 at 09:18:25 (EST)


Ron Smith sells the book directly, I also think GRS has it listed in their catalog
pilkguns
- Tuesday, January 20, 2004 at 07:02:40 (EST)


Mr Roberts Thanks for the advice on books to improve my scroll drawing. I am having trouble finding this book by Ron Smith. Any sources on this book would be appreciated. Gerald Taylor
Gerald Taylor <
geraldwtaylor@cox-internet.com>
El Dorado, Ar 71730 870-862-5633 - Monday, January 19, 2004 at 21:06:21 (EST)


Hi all, I have a few used items for sale...A #506 handpiece for Gravermate/max, a Quick Change fixture for power hone & GRS video I&II. Drop me aline if anyone is interested in all or part or trade or whatever..... Take Care all. -Chris
Chris Lowe <
chrislowe87@hotmail.com>
Burnt Hills , NY 12027 518-399-0916 - Monday, January 19, 2004 at 08:59:50 (EST)


Gerald Taylor....I would recommend: Drawing & Understanding Scroll Designs by Ron Smith Ron makes it very simple and easy to understand drawing and scroll design. Two books by Dover Books: Handbook of Ornaments by Franz Sales Meyer The Styles of Ornament by Alexander Speltz JJ
JJ Roberts
Manassas, VA - Monday, January 19, 2004 at 07:57:03 (EST)


I would like the names of a few good books on engraving designs.Thanks Gerald
Gerald Taylor <
geraldwtaylor@cox-internet.com>
El Dorado, Ar 71730 870-862-5633 - Sunday, January 18, 2004 at 22:47:28 (EST)


Scotch stones used to be a staple of jewlery engravers but are no longer available due to the closing of the quarry they were taken from. Its a grey fine grit stone used with water to remove light to semi- deep scratches or slips prior repolishing with tripoli and then rouge. I still have some which I literally inherited from deceased engravers. I don't think Arkansas stones are an equivilent. The best place to find stones that work like scotch stones is Gesswein jewlers supply. They have a large selection of diemakers stones in just about every hardness and will work just as well as scotch stones if not better, since you can work your way from hard to soft stones to remove scratches in stages, which is a better idea. The funny thing is that since I went from hand powered gravers to a Lindsay airgraver, I rarely use my scotch stones since almost never slip anymore. The stones that I was worried would run out before I did will now probably be inherited by my apprentice instead.
Allan
Maryland - Friday, January 16, 2004 at 21:28:04 (EST)


Dennis, ditto Sam's comments about the Hacksaw blade... I have been working on this--- http://www.ckdforums.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=19344
pilkguns
- Friday, January 16, 2004 at 08:05:51 (EST)


Jim, Check out these guys for your stone you are looking for. The sell everything for polishing and finishing. Congress TOols Inc. 1-800-243-2653
Joe Mason <
masonjoe@bellsouth.net>
- Thursday, January 15, 2004 at 19:24:37 (EST)


Dennis, what with getting ready for the up-coming trip to Reno it will have to wait until after I return before I have time to cut, form and try out the steel. Sam
Sam Welch
- Wednesday, January 14, 2004 at 22:47:16 (EST)


According to Oppi Untracht in "Jewelry Concepts And Technology", Water-of-Ayr is similiar to Arkansas stone and is used for final polishing of gravers. It is also called Scotch stone. I couldn't find it in any of the jewelers supply catalogs. Norm
Norm Arns <
NormanA632@aol.com>
Green Valley, AZ - Wednesday, January 14, 2004 at 12:41:56 (EST)


I, and others, would like to hear a "progress report" on the use of the Starret Red Stripe power hacksaw blade as a graver material.
Dennis Potter <
Potter@execpc.com>
Muskego,, WI - Tuesday, January 13, 2004 at 23:27:33 (EST)


WANTED: Does anyone know of a source of a polishing stone called "Water-of-Ayr" or "bluestone"? They were used wet as a finish before polishing metal by engravers and jewelers. Used to be mined in Wales, England. They seem to have completely disappeared. Thank you, Jim Skladany.
Jim Skladany <
Jim321@webtv.net>
San Bernardino, CA 92405 909-882-7634 - Sunday, January 11, 2004 at 08:39:02 (EST)


Arlon, it is probably done by bluing the gun then removing the bluing with a rust remover such as Naval Jelly. Though it leaves a phosphatized finish on the metal it is not very protective so be sure to keep it clean and oiled. Shooting shouldn't harm the finish, just do the cleaning and oiling. There are other ways to "french grey", plating being one of them but seldom used, especially is there is any gold inlay. Check the metal surface under magnification. If you can see some fine uniform pitting of smooth areas the gun was likely rust blued prior to greying. If fairly smooth then I would expect hot dip bluing before greying. Regards. Sam
Sam Welch
- Thursday, January 08, 2004 at 22:09:47 (EST)


Not exactly an engraving question but rather a finish of an engraved revolver question (if the question has to go, kill it). I recently purchased an engraved revolver that is finished in what was called "french gray". Can someone lead to information on exactly what this finish might be as applied to an engraved gun after the engraving (not the french gray bead blast from midway I think). I've tried this question on several "smithing" forums without an answer. I assume it is not too popular a finish for what ever reason. I would like to shoot the gun but sure what shooting will do to this finish. Any input or links would be appreciated. Care suggestions also appreciated.
Arlon <
w38_55@yahoo.com>
Houston, Tx - Thursday, January 08, 2004 at 17:08:09 (EST)


Does anyone have the following FEGA videos (VHS) that they want to sell at a price that a 10th grader can afford? Tool Geometry by Don Glaser-1991. Engraving Basics by Rex Pedersen-1991. Drawing techniques, Layout Process, Shading. Ron Smith-2001. Drawing Techniques I & II Layout Process, Lee Griffiths Thanks
Paul Holzweiss <
pholzwei@yahoo.com>
Essex Junction, VT - Thursday, January 08, 2004 at 14:39:13 (EST)


Sherry, get pure. It requires some 2100 degrees temp to anneal so use a propane tourch. It also work-hardens on the first hit so be sure you set it with that first hit. Otherwise it is like doing gold. Be sure you have a good under cut. Good luck. Sam
Sam Welch
- Wednesday, January 07, 2004 at 22:25:24 (EST)


Platinum Inlay... I have a customer who wants platinum inlays on express sights. Any tips.. Does it work like gold?? Should I purchase pure, or with alloy added. Any help will be appreciated.
Sherry Nichols <
snichols@watervalley.net>
Red Banks, MS - Wednesday, January 07, 2004 at 22:16:17 (EST)


Here is an invitation, regarding engraving the Ruger Stainless shotguns. As Ruger offers these shotguns in an engraved version, are any of the engravers who are doing this work out their who would care to share their techniques/tips? Dennis
Dennis Potter <
Potter@execpc.com>
Muskego,, WI 414 425 4830 - Saturday, January 03, 2004 at 21:10:42 (EST)


Here's a chance to attend a great course at great price... http://www.money.org/press/20031028-summer.html
Scott Pilkington
- Saturday, January 03, 2004 at 18:57:39 (EST)


To Scott Caudle...........I too, have chilling memories about Ruger Red Label Shotguns and I will never do another one. I haven't engraved any of the chrome/moly steel(Blued) Rugers rifles, but the blued handguns come out OK. You may want to look at the Browning BPS Shotguns. They are well made, easy to engrave(Because they are completely blank on both sides),usually have pretty nice wood stocks,will re-blue nicely, and are half the price of a Red Label.That makes it real nice for your Fund Raising project.It comes in all gauges, except .16 Ga.- Go figure. The only real problem is taking the magazine tube off the receiver. It has red LockTite and usually gets "totaled" removing it(Even when you heat it up). Browning/Winchester will get you the part for about $20.00.+/-
Brian Powley
- Thursday, January 01, 2004 at 13:43:46 (EST)


I can only comment on the stainless red label. I have done one and since then I have conveniently priced myself out of the market. Having said that I have recently been deluded enought to have tackled 3 modern bolt rifles that rockwell around 44-46 on the receiver. Sympathy accepted. Cackling and guffaws expected. Gold inlay will be one's greatest challenge. Simple scroll is possible. I used a 120 degree graver and on the tip of the face I ground a secondary face, very small, at 70 degrees. Patience is a virtue...........right now!
Lee Griffiths
- Wednesday, December 31, 2003 at 22:44:40 (EST)


Hope everyone is having a happy New Year's eve. A few weeks ago, I submitted a question concerning the difficulty engraving a Ruger Red Label shotgun due to the hardness of the metal. I received a response from Rex Pederson, but had a few more questions and was hoping to get additional input. I have discovered that no one likes to talk about the Ruger shotguns. I was wondering if anyone has tried to cut a blued Ruger. Are these just as hard? I have a friend who would like me to tell him what type of shotgun to get so after I engrave it he can raffle it off to raise money for a scholarship fund. Any suggestions on another type of plain shotgun (about the same grade as a Red Label) that would be better suited for engraving? Rex said if it doesn't require much engraving/detail then do the Ruger. If it does require quite a bit of detail, then find another manf & remove the roll stamping. I am not a professional. This will be my first shotgun. What type of shotguns do the rest of you cut? Do ya'll have to remove the roll stamping? Thanks for your response, Rex. I appreciate any input that the rest of the group can provide. Have a good'n.
Scott Caudle
San Angelo, TX 325-947-7020 - Wednesday, December 31, 2003 at 21:14:18 (EST)