| FEGA Home 2005 Forum Archives sorry guys. forgot to introduce myself earlier. i started arms engraving back about 82 or so. i was in the usmc at the time . was a gun nut., then got interested in the art. i got a vice, hammer & chissel from ray viramontez, then took off , self taught , read meeks book. i quit engraving in about 95 & figured out why. i used the old long drawn out method of transfer i learned from the book. it burned me out. i quit for 11 or 12 yrs. but i always spent a little time drawing the stuff. i got the itch to try my hand again, i have, and doing fine . i went to the 87 guild show in vegas at that time.from okinawa at that time.recectly in the last couple of months i have conntacted mike dubber. a well known artist. he not only remembered me from 87 , he gave me a pass to the show & he i & ben shostle sat & talked for hours . i,ve never forgot. mike recently gave me a better way to transfer than i ever thought was possible. the guild was always the only place to relate to the art. i joined finally, wished i had yrs. ago. these are the greatest guys in the world to relate to. these are my thoughts. john.. & no me & scott ain,t related. john pilkington <jap1951188wp2003@yahoo.com> jacksonville, nc 9109381239 - Monday, July 04, 2005 at 17:11:22 (EDT) i have a magna graver for sale. motor, hand piece , cable & rheostat. plus a new 4 pack of assorted gravers. i got it in 86 , got about 8 hrs. on it. dumb as it may sound i still use belgian gravers & a hammer. any reasonable offer will be considered john pilkington <jap1951188wp2003@yahoo.com> jacksonville , nc 9109381239 - Monday, July 04, 2005 at 15:21:43 (EDT) Has anyone engraved on golf clubs? I have a putter that I need to engrave on but is to hard. I was told that it was made of 431 Stainless Steel and is heat hardend. Can these putters be annealed, engraved and then retempered? Jim <jblairengrav@msn.com> glenrock, wyo. - Monday, July 04, 2005 at 08:19:11 (EDT) A plug for a FEGA member. Went to a show in Sturgis Mi today and talked to Curt McClain. As a beginner, I showed him my latest project, then shut my mouth and opened my ears. What a great guy, his words of encouragement and points of improvement make me want to keep going. If this is the average FEGA member, I an ready to sign up. Don't know if Curt will see this. If you know him, let him know the post is here. Thank's again Curt. Rob Rob Jones <graverman@peoplepc.com> Burlington, michigan - Sunday, June 26, 2005 at 22:48:36 (EDT) Marty, thanks a bunch for the pricing info, it helps tremendously. Rob Rob Jones <graverman@peoplepc.com> Burlington, michigan - Thursday, June 23, 2005 at 20:53:09 (EDT) In one of the engraving videos produced by John Bivins, Lynton McKenzie remarked that round gravers "... are too round when you buy them, so you have to flatten them anyway." Can anyone expand upon that topic, please? What effects can be obtained with a round graver? What effects can be obtained by a flattened, round graver? How much should a round graver be flattened? .... My own use of a round graver thus far is very limited, i.e., to clean the end of a cut made by a square graver for the interior of a "chain-link" in a chain-pattern. Any elucidation would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! P.S. In my studies and pursuit of 18th & 19th century gunmaking & engraving skills, I really miss those two gentlemen - I am envious of those of you who had the pleasure of knowing them. John Hancock Webster Groves, MO - Thursday, June 23, 2005 at 19:14:31 (EDT) I'm looking for someone to engrave some text onto my AR15 replica lower reciever. I'm pretty sure its magnesium. Will pay good price. Please email me if you can do this, must live in the GTA area. Mark <conrad_32@hotmail.com> Richmond Hill, ON - Thursday, June 23, 2005 at 14:17:41 (EDT) Rob. When ever I quote an engraving job to a client and when I bill them after the engraving is finished, there are different amounts that get added up. First is the actual cost of the engraving (my labor). Added to that is any added materials such as gold or replacement parts. Then we have other peoples labor such as rebluing, plateing etc. Of course you should also include any return shipping. These are you business expenses above you engraving fees. Let the client know about all these add-ons right from the start. I also tell my clients that I do not make a profit on these and I will bill them only what my expenses from others are. Hope this helps you. Marty Marty Rabeno - Thursday, June 23, 2005 at 08:41:18 (EDT) Sorry about the repeats. Rob Jones <graverman@people pc .com> Burlington, michigan - Wednesday, June 22, 2005 at 23:37:56 (EDT) A Question about pricing. I have reached the point with my hand engraving that people are asking me to engrave their gun. I have a rough idea of what I think my work is worth,the problem is that when I am done there is still a $100 charge for blueing. What is the best way to relate this cost to a customer? Do I lump that in with the project price, or tell them it's an additional cost? How do you guy's handle it? Rob Jones <graverman@people pc .com> Burlington, michigan - Wednesday, June 22, 2005 at 20:57:10 (EDT) A Question about pricing. I have reached the point with my hand engraving that people are asking me to engrave their gun. I have a rough idea of what I think my work is worth,the problem is that when I am done there is still a $100 charge for blueing. What is the best way to relate this cost to a customer? Do I lump that in with the project price, or tell them it's an additional cost? How do you guy's handle it? Rob Jones <graverman@people pc .com> Burlington, michigan - Wednesday, June 22, 2005 at 20:55:13 (EDT) A Question about pricing. I have reached the point with my hand engraving that people are asking me to engrave their gun. I have a rough idea of what I think my work is worth,the problem is that when I am done there is still a $100 charge for blueing. What is the best way to relate this cost to a customer? Do I lump that in with the project price, or tell them it's an additional cost? How do you guy's handle it? Rob Jones <graverman@people pc .com> Burlington, michigan - Wednesday, June 22, 2005 at 20:54:12 (EDT) A Question about pricing. I have reached the point with my hand engraving that people are asking me to engrave their gun. I have a rough idea of what I think my work is worth,the problem is that when I am done there is still a $100 charge for blueing. What is the best way to relate this cost to a customer? Do I lump that in with the project price, or tell them it's an additional cost? How do you guy's handle it? Rob Jones <graverman@people pc .com> Burlington, michigan - Wednesday, June 22, 2005 at 20:53:43 (EDT) A Question about pricing. I have reached the point with my hand engraving that people are asking me to engrave their gun. I have a rough idea of what I think my work is worth,the problem is that when I am done there is still a $100 charge for blueing. What is the best way to relate this cost to a customer? Do I lump that in with the project price, or tell them it's an additional cost? How do you guy's handle it? Rob Jones <graverman@people pc .com> Burlington, michigan - Wednesday, June 22, 2005 at 20:51:59 (EDT) A Question about pricing. I have reached the point with my hand engraving that people are asking me to engrave their gun. I have a rough idea of what I think my work is worth,the problem is that when I am done there is still a $100 charge for blueing. What is the best way to relate this cost to a customer? Do I lump that in with the project price, or tell them it's an additional cost? How do you guy's handle it? Rob Jones <graverman@people pc .com> Burlington, michigan - Wednesday, June 22, 2005 at 20:51:15 (EDT) Luis, If I remember correctly you can formally copyright related designs as a "collection" on a single registry form. I do not recall how many (total) you could include under one copyright - but you can do several at least - if they are a similar/related motif. I have had a few collections of about 6 pieces of jewelry that I felt were worth copyrighting over the years. Usually with a similar design running through the group or set. For an example: a matching series consisting of necklace, pendant, earrings, ring, bracelet, and perhaps an anklet. All of these pieces incorporating the same easily recognizable design elements. Most of the information is available along with the forms on the govt. website. You can even download the forms. I think you'll be wanting the Visual Art (VA) form. It does take a while to get your Certificate of Registration... I think it was around three months? Been a few years back... Good luck with it. I hope you never have to litigate a copyright. The only ones who win are the lawyers. Brian P. Marshall <instructor@jewelryartschool.com> Stockton, CA 95209 209-477-0550 - Wednesday, June 22, 2005 at 00:39:16 (EDT) I have developed what seems to be a unique design that is selling well. Many of my customers have urged me to copyright it and I'm becoming convinced that they are probably right. Among the many questions I have are: Do you copyright an idea? Must each variation be copyrighted? Any tips or advice would be appreciated. Luis Uzueta North Pole, Alaska - Tuesday, June 21, 2005 at 03:58:48 (EDT) Dan send me an email I'd like to talk about your project. Mike <gldsmith@ccia.com> - Friday, June 03, 2005 at 20:45:03 (EDT) Gee. I remember the days before all humor went the way of political correctness. It was great. I do not think I have insulted the Guild in any way. I am it's greatest admirer. I have stimulated the responses and found our Ralph Steadman fan an Engraver. I would love to see the finished product perhaps Ralph's Lizard Lounge on one side of the firearm and Red Shark on the other would be a nice choice. You might win the engravers choice award. It will be different. Best of luck. Jerry Huddleston <huddlestonjerry@msn.com> Baker, Or. - Wednesday, June 01, 2005 at 01:56:20 (EDT) Dan, you may have missunderstood my message by your response...I was being as "polietly insulting" as possible to the previous poster as his response to your request insults our guild,its membership...and you... the answer for you to take a hammer and chisel and do it yourself I find to be an unproffesional, insulting reply to a reasonable request of help on a potential engraving commison... The opinion of the engraver about your choice of art does not enter into what you asked for..The only questions that should matter to you are..is the engraver you are seeking capable of doing as you request?,,do you like his work? Most all engravers are interested in the best possible out come of a finished engraving regardless of the art style in question... I do not like dinosaurs but if I was commisioned to do one I would do it to the best of my ability, as I am sure any engraver would....the matter of the fee does of course enter into the question on both sides.... I for one am willing to speak with you about your proposed engraving project...please feel free to contact me if you are so inclined... j.c. J.C. <jcis@jcengraver.com> WA 99206 - Tuesday, May 31, 2005 at 18:38:31 (EDT) If it were Jackson Pollock that I wanted, I would use the chisel. While you might not like Ralph Steadman's art, I think it would be appropriate for what I want to do, and as far as technique is concerned, it's probably easier than a lot of the portraits that I have seen in the gallery. Any way, if any one does not like the subject matter, I would not like them to work for me because I want an engraver that is interested in the outcome of the piece, not just the fee. dan - Tuesday, May 31, 2005 at 16:50:26 (EDT) “Nice” response to a legitimate inquiry….really puts a good “face” to this guild….thanks! Beauty is in the eye of the beholder….If the man has the wherewithal for your fee and you are capable of doing as he desires…..??? Wildlife and scrolls are not the last word in engraving………. j.c. J.C. Randell <jcis@jcengraver.com> WA - Tuesday, May 31, 2005 at 12:19:38 (EDT) Dan. Why don't you get a hammer and a cold chisel and do it yourself. No one will know. jerry huddleston <huddlestonjerry@msn.com> Baker City, OR. 541 523 2593 - Tuesday, May 31, 2005 at 01:39:31 (EDT) I am looking for an engraver. I would like to find an engraver that enjoys deviating from the traditional scroll work and wildlife art. I would like my engraving inspired by the art of Ralph Steadman. I would appretiate any recomendations, or if you feel you are up to the task, let me know. I'll check back here in a few days. Dan - Monday, May 30, 2005 at 01:55:25 (EDT) for a inexpensive quiet compressor...try a old refrigerator compressor and a captive tank...with a few fittings,and some ingenuity...you will have a dependable quiet one for little monetary investment..... good luck.. J.C. Randell WA - Thursday, May 26, 2005 at 22:19:37 (EDT) James, I'm not familiar with air brush compressors. The gravermax requires very little cfm or psi. I had a navy seal tell me he runs his off of his scuba tanks and gets several hours. Your best bet may be to call GRS 1-800-835-3519 Lee griffiths - Wednesday, May 25, 2005 at 14:24:44 (EDT) I finally got my boss to buy me a GraverMax. I need to buy a quiet air compressor without spending a fortune. Has anybody tried the air brush compressors with tanks? Would they handle the GraverMax? I'm only using one handpiece for engraving and hammer setting diamonds. Not using the air grinder GRS sells. Thanks, James James S. Cantrell <jscantrell@terraworld.net> Coffeyville, KS 67337 620-948-6230 - Tuesday, May 24, 2005 at 23:22:51 (EDT) Hello! I'm new to engraving and just starting to learn. I've tried different types of bench vices and machine vices and have not been happy with the results. So, I've decided to bite the bullet and invest in a good used ball vice - age or model is irrelevant as long as it works. Please e-mail me directly if you have one for sale. Thanks! Mark Henry <mark@markhenryenterprises.com> Concord, NC (704)721-6685 - Sunday, May 22, 2005 at 08:19:58 (EDT) Heath, last I heard, Ben Lane aka Ben Lane, Jr. was in Estes Park, CO. You might try information, that city. FRANK, french grey is usually done by rust bluing the part then removing the blue with a rust remover such as Naval jelly or Oxysolv (sold by Eastwood). Also can be done with hot dip bluing giving a brighter look. Neither provide much in the way of protection. Grey or coin finishes can be done with a nitride treatment which is a form of case hardening that needs special and I presume expensive equipment. Sam Welch UT - Thursday, May 19, 2005 at 22:24:36 (EDT) I am new to engraving and I am intrested in the French Grey process. I guess I have questions on how to apply it and the formula. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you! Frank Kratky <fjkratky@hotmail.com> Fort Collin, Colorado - Wednesday, May 18, 2005 at 20:54:53 (EDT) Would like to correspond with Ben Lane Jr. about a gun possibly engraved by him in the late 1960's. Are Ben Lane and Ben Lane Jr the same engraver? Any help? Thanks! Heath H <pawnstor@aol.com> houston, tx 7138258980 - Wednesday, May 18, 2005 at 02:02:54 (EDT) I am interested in a used GRS Magna Block, and would like one with the attachments. If you have one for sale please contact me at tradedollar50@aol.com Hank Pope <tradedollar50@aol.com> Fort Worth, Texas 682-286-9400 - Monday, May 09, 2005 at 23:29:18 (EDT) Lee.......Nobody will ever guess what color crayon you use. Your trade secret of the PINK/TANGERINE crayon is safe with me. Marty Rabeno - Wednesday, May 04, 2005 at 18:18:04 (EDT) The sharpened crayon was the one "trade" secret I was hoping to keep. Thanks a bunch Marty. Lee Griffiths - Wednesday, May 04, 2005 at 14:12:11 (EDT) Gee Lee.......you swore to me that you used a sharpened crayon to transfer your layouts and that I should try that. Marty Rabeno - Wednesday, May 04, 2005 at 08:33:08 (EDT) I agree with the posts about Tom White's transfer solution. Some of you saw Bertil Aasland's at Reno. This does the same thing. I have purchased it and wish I'd had it years ago. Lee Griffiths - Tuesday, May 03, 2005 at 09:20:20 (EDT) See the 3rd. post down from yours for a really good transfer system J.C. - Saturday, April 30, 2005 at 21:01:10 (EDT) See the 3rd. post down from your for a really good transfer system j.c. J.C. - Saturday, April 30, 2005 at 21:00:13 (EDT) I have a large ship's bell to hand engrave the ship's name and a wave design underneath the ship's name on the bell. Would anyone have any ideas about what would be the best way to transfer the layout on to the bell? Kelly Parkes <studio@krparkes.com> Vancouver, BC Canada 604-687-4661 - Tuesday, April 26, 2005 at 21:48:50 (EDT) SCHOOL OF ARTISTIC ENGRAVING JJ ROBERTS, Engraver – Manassas, VA Teaching the traditional hammer, chisel and hand gravers methods plus power assist tools such as Gravermeister, Gravermax, Gravermate,Ngraver Magna Graver II, Steve Lindsay’s Classic Air Graver. Learn basic metal hand & power tool engraving for guns, knives, jewelry and motorcycles. Learn to sharpen tools correctly with the GRS Powerhone. I will help you find your comfort zone, whether sitting or standing. One on one teaching with an engraver with more then 30 years of experience. Some artistic experience recommended. Email: jjrengraver@aol.com www.angelfire.com/va2/engraver Phone: 703 –330-0448 JJ Roberts Manassas, VA - Saturday, April 23, 2005 at 17:42:50 (EDT) email to you was returned. I met Hank in the early 70's when he and I both lived in New Jersey. We did some gun shows together. He lived in Seaside Hgts., NJ. If there is anything else you want to know about Hank..give me a call between 9-6pm est at 703-330-0448. JJ Roberts Manassas, VA - Wednesday, April 20, 2005 at 05:17:29 (EDT) INK JET TRANSFER SYSTEM: Some of you may want to try this. It came up on the Knife Network (Embellishment) forum a few weeks back, and being curious - I had to try it. I liked it. A lot! Much finer results than I’ve gotten from the laser/acetone method. Uses transparency film, so it’s easy to locate on your work. Two things I gotta say: it’s NOT cheap – but a little bottle will last a very long time. Secondly, a disclaimer - I have never met Tom White and I am not associated with him in any other way than as a very satisfied customer. If you wanna read about the stuff try http://users.commspeed.net/ttwhite/xtransc.htm If you want to contact Tom the email I have is transfersolutions@commspeed.net If you decide to try it, post YOUR results for everyone else. Brian Marshall <instructor@jewelryartschool.com> Stockton, CA 95209 209-477-0550 - Monday, April 18, 2005 at 23:18:13 (EDT) I am looking on information on the engraver Hank Bonham.I have recently took over my fathers collection and have a number of pieces done by this gentalman.I am trying to obtain some history on the wok so as I can put value on the collection Mark gotell <vallygunshop@shaw.ca> Youbou, BC Canada vor3e1 250 745 3255 - Monday, April 18, 2005 at 21:46:22 (EDT) I would like to extend my condolences to the Glaser family. I met Don at the NRA show in Philadelphia many years ago. He was a fine gentleman, and I sat and he showed me his Gravermeister and we had quite a talk. He will surely be missed. JJ Roberts-Manassas, VA JJ Roberts <jjrengraver@aol.com> Manassas, VA - Friday, April 15, 2005 at 11:02:40 (EDT) What a neat guy Don Glaser was. He was always willing to share his knowledge with a novice. I learned a tremendous amount fron his tapes. He was so talented and humble at the same time. I will miss him. My prayers go out for his family. jerry huddleston <huddlestonjerry@msn.com> Baker City, Oregon 5415232593 - Friday, April 15, 2005 at 02:12:08 (EDT) Don was a longtime friend and innovator. He made a difference to all of use either directly or indirectly. He will be missed. Marty Rabeno - Thursday, April 14, 2005 at 22:10:33 (EDT) Glaser Family, My thoughts and Prayers are with you..... Chris <chrislowe87@hotmail.com> NY - Thursday, April 14, 2005 at 20:59:20 (EDT) Don Glaser passed away last night. I will always count him and his family as wonderful friends. His gracious and humble character are a sweet memory. God bless you Don. Lee Griffiths USA - Wednesday, April 13, 2005 at 22:51:07 (EDT) Here's a quick layout tip: Look at your design from different angles. It can help to view your original sketch from both sides. This is simple to do when using acetate, Mylar, or vellum. Just hold the drawing up to a light source and flip it over a couple of times. If you've drawn on a non-transparent medium - just get in front of a mirror and hold it up to view it. Often you will see that scrolls or borders are not quite as consistent or do not flow as well as they could. Perhaps the positioning of an animal or the density of scenery could be improved. Maybe the areas of background are not balanced throughout the work. Sometimes these things are not readily apparent, because you - as the artist - are a bit "too close" to your work. It may help to back off at least 3 feet and look at the overall impression that someone walking by your table will get. Another thing that seems to help (if time allows) is to simply put the design aside for a couple of days. Looking at it later - and perhaps in a slightly different frame of mind - may help you catch something else you've missed BEFORE beginning to cut the work. The woodworkers rule of "measuring twice and cutting once"... is not quite enough for quality engraving. Brian Marshall <instructor@jewelryartschool.com> Stockton, CA 95209 209-477-0550 - Friday, April 08, 2005 at 10:26:05 (EDT) Does anyone have an extra copy of the phamplet on "Scrolls & Glossaries" by C. Roger Bleile..not his book on American Engravers. I would like a copy or a xerox copy of this phamplet...Thank you. JJ Roberts <jjrengraver@aol.com> Manassas, VA - Sunday, April 03, 2005 at 10:35:24 (EDT) Beading punches in various sizes can be purchased from either GRS or NGRAVER Co. Both of these companies have links on the FEGA site marty rabeno - Monday, March 28, 2005 at 12:16:04 (EST) Gentlemen, I am a beginning hand engraver. I am looking for beading punches. Does anyone know of a good supplier? Rob Jones <graverman@peoplepc.com> burlington, michigan 517-765-1061 - Sunday, March 27, 2005 at 22:42:20 (EST) I might add that Silly Putty works great for seal impressions as you're engraving them. sam alfano - Sunday, March 27, 2005 at 07:29:10 (EST) Thanks Sam for your info regarding the sealing wax. I have now ordered from http://fauxwax.com Kelly Parkes <studio@krparkes.com> Vancouver, BC Canada 604-687-4661 - Wednesday, March 23, 2005 at 02:45:25 (EST) Thanks Sam for the good info about the wax, etc. Hope all is well! Tom Tom McArdle <gravertom@aol.com> - Thursday, March 17, 2005 at 00:31:17 (EST) Re: SEALING WAX: There's a great sealing wax call Faux Wax (http://fauxwax.com/) which works with a low-temp mini glue gun. I use it when I engrave coats-of-arms. If you prefer regular sealing wax, then place a bit on heavy 3x5 index card paper and warm it over a candle to melt the wax. You have to be really careful or you'll ignite the paper, but it's an excellent way to soften the wax for making an impression. Also try chilling the seal on an ice cube before stamping in the hot wax. I was shown these techniques by a European seal engraver. If anyone's interested in the art of seal engraving, check out Dexter Seal Engraving in the U.K. at www.sealengraving.com/ They do spectacular work. / Sam Alfano Sam Alfano - Wednesday, March 16, 2005 at 12:46:57 (EST) Re: SEALING WAX: There's a great sealing wax call Faux Wax (http://fauxwax.com/) which works with a low-temp mini glue gun. I use it when I engrave coats-of-arms. If you prefer regular sealing wax, then place a bit on heavy 3x5 index card paper and warm it over a candle to melt the wax. You have to be really careful or you'll ignite the paper, but it's an excellent way to soften the wax for making an impression. Also try chilling the seal on an ice cube before stamping in the hot wax. I was shown these techniques by a European seal engraver. If anyone's interested in the art of seal engraving, check out Dexter Seal Engraving in the U.K. at www.sealengraving.com/ They do spectacular work. / Sam Alfano Sam Alfano <mailto:www.MasterEngraver.com> - Wednesday, March 16, 2005 at 12:46:45 (EST) Scott, I have been following the discussion on the knife board regarding a new organization and I believe it is time for such an effort. The original founding of FEGA was as an organization with the primary objective to promote the art of gun engraving, hence the name. Human nature being what it is, there will always be some who want to change the direction of FEGA. That is why, at the founding meeting in Houston, it was voted that the guild would be established as, and always be, primarily for gun engraving. Engravers of other medium were and are welcome to join and share techniques. There is certainly room and need for another organization for hand engravers and I wish them well! Sam Welch UT - Monday, March 14, 2005 at 22:25:35 (EST) proposed new association. When I first heard about it last week in Kansas from some of the other GRS instructors I was very pleased with the idea (I was in Germany the two weeks prior and had not been on this board). It seems like a great idea in many respects, and tallys nicely with the new Art Degree that is in the works from ESU. But, thinking about it more, I guess I don’t understand totally why we are trying to re-invent the wheel. FEGA basically does EVERYTHING that has been touted for this new organization. (and before some of you flamers start, Read the English language people, I did say “basically”). I have serious issues with FEGA on a number of points (one of which is this antiquated bulletin board!!!!!!!!!!!!). And on the flip side of the coin, I have serious issues with NRA, CMP, USA Shooting, and other organizations that I strongly support. But they are the best game in town for what they need to do, and it seems counter productive to the BIG picture to try to thwart them or tear them down. It’s the old United we stand, Divided we fall scenario. _________________________________________________________________________ FEGA is not perfect organization, but it is making great strides in recent years. I find it ironic that several of the proponents of this new association have never been a FEGA member (as stated on this forum in the past, if my memory is correct). I am not condemning their lack of FEGA membership, I myself dropped out for several years because I did not like some of the politics, but I am condemning their condemnation of an organization that they have never been a part of, or tried to change. I have worked at times to see changes in FEGA and been frustrated by lack of change at times. BUT. I also know many of the challenges of volunteer ran, membership managed organization, that will also be inherent to this new association. So the new organization will be gaining nothing in this respect. _____________________________________________________________________ The only thing I see that this new group has to offer that FEGA does not, is a non-firearms focused viewpoint. I love guns in all shapes in sizes, but I have engraved many non-fiream related objects, as I am sure EVERY firearms engraver has as well. Would it not be MUCH better to work within the framework of 20 year old organization, that already has major news coverage of its events, and is already recognized as an expert source of information?____________________________________________________________________________________________________________ I am not sure what would be required to change the FEGA charter, to open it up to all types of engraveable objects, but it can’t be that difficult and I doubt the legal fees would be as much as trying to stand up a new non-profit organization. (and I do have some recent experience in that with Olympic Shooting.) Without speaking for anyone other than myself, I think there are several current and past FEGA officers who would support such a change._______________________________________________________________________________ So before we go too far down this road, of creating a new organization that does almost the same thing, why don’t we persue the option of everyone joining FEGA, and then work to modify it to allow and promote engraving on other objects. If not changing the charter, maybe their could be separate category in FEGA for art engraving, I am sure there are lots of ways to accomplish what everyone wants, getting more exposure for artistic hand engraving, whether it is on a Rigby rifle, Tiffany jewelry, a cell phone or Bubba’s pocket knife. ______________________________________________________________________ That’s my thoughts at the moment, If you think I am missing something, I would love to see some input from some of you guys…. Scott Pilkington ____________________ PS: and I am leaving this afternoon for the Collegiate Pistol Championships, so will be hard to catch on the internet the next few days, but will try to check in as often as I can. Scott Pilkington - Monday, March 14, 2005 at 09:24:57 (EST)
International Association of Engraving Arts (members wanted) Hello people, I need to start collecting the names & E-mail addresses of the folks who anticipate on joining this new Association. Spread the word about it to fellow engravers, get thier interest,names & e-mails. Compile a list and E-mail them to myself. The reason why I need to start forming a list is because ,when the time arrives I will be mailing out a personal invitation to these people to come join us ,veiw our new site and perhaps join if they are interested. Thank you, Wayne wayne@dangeloengraving.com Jerry, John Bivins wrote an article about wire inlay in Rifle 67, Jan 1980. It is in Wolf Publishing's Gunsmithing tips and tricks book. basically, he advocates scoring both sides of the strip of metal with a file, and then wetting the stock around the wire after it is inlet. The swelling of the wood is supposed to lock the wood fibers onto the metal, with the score marks giving more of a gripping surface. He doesn't mention any wax. Haven't tried it myself though. Take care, Tom of a new engraver’s association, major news was announced in Emporia, Kansas on Thursday March 10th. In what is believed to be world first, a new 4 year engraving degree has been announced by the Emporia State University. This is chance to show the art world what we have known all along, that engraving is truly an art form, and deserving of it’s own bachelor degree. Myself and all the other GRS instructors* were all present for the grand announcement along with many local dignitaries. Don Glaser, was there despite some ongoing health problems, but looking great and gave his upbeat comments, and his classic statement, “The world needs more beautiful things in it”. Mike Dubber made a wonderful introduction of each of us instructors, and Dianne Scalese gave a moving talk about her desire to get an art degree and the twists and turns in life that turned into engraving years later. Presentations were made by many of the University faculty and directors and overall there was a lot of synergy in that ballroom that night. I think all of us engravers were amazed at the local community support that is being shown for this project. More details will be forthcoming as things progress, but I have to hand it to Kim Pember, the general manager of GRS, for her innovative thinking and strong will to promote all forms of the engraving arts, as evidenced by this, the Grand Master’s program and other things that are in the works. Here are some photos from Thursday nights announcement. http://pilkguns.com/grvr05/art05/index.htm *please the GRS website for names and details http://www.grstools.com/instructor.html Does anyone ever answer the questions posed in this forum? Being an amateur engraver I see many questions posted that I would love to know the answer to, but nothing ever appears. I have seen gold inlays in ivory grips and in wood. Can someone tell me what is the best way to hold these in permanently ?? John K. Barraclough once told me they were held in with some kind of wax in 18th century England but I don't know what kind. A new association for all types of hand engraving is in the initial planning stages. Vist this forum http://www.knifenetwork.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=46 to participate in the discussion. Thanks! Tom Whenever I see a selectively greyed reciever or an upgraded Fox that has almost complete coverage is there any finish over it and/or what is it? If I were to use naval jelly to grey as recomended what should I use over it as protection and what do you use over a whole boxlock for example? Can anyone give me a synopsis of what the 2003 video by Bob Evans includes with respect to inlay techniques? Thanks! Tom Due to family health problems, I still haven't gotten the website up. Should have it up by the end of March. Meanwhile, I'd like to take this opportunity to thank everyone for their concern at the show. Looks like everything is gonna turn out all right. Here's a quick summary of what I'm offering this year, if you'd like more details - please contact me off the forum. 5-Day 40 hour Workshops ~ 9:00am – 6:00pm ? Mar. 28 – Apr.1 Basic Engraving ? Apr. 25 – 29 Basic Engraving ? May 23 – 27 Basic Engraving ? Jun. 20 – Jun. 24 “Western” Silversmithing ? Jun. 27 – Jul. 1 “Western” Engraving - Alex Sanchez ? Jul. 25 – 29 Intermediate Engraving - Basic inlay/bulino ? Aug. 29 – Sept. 1 Basic Engraving ? Sept. 26 – 30 Basic Engraving $750 (includes notes, all tools & materials package) Oct. – to be announced - First Annual Hawaiian Workshop Series 3-Day 24 hour Workshops ~ 9:00am – 6:00pm ? Aug. 5 – 7 Benchtop Press ? Sept. 9 – 11 Advanced Ring Engraving $380 (includes notes, all tools & materials package) Deposit required at least 2 weeks in advance. Workshop size is limited. Register early! After March all future schedules and information will be available on the website – www.jewelryartschool.com jewelryartschool@aol.com Kelly, I have had the same trouble with sealing wax. I have found some waxes that have wicks in the middle, and they burn like a candle. it takes longer than with a torch, but doesn't darken the wax. take care, Tom I'm looking for a used Gravermax. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks James What is the best way to heat red seal wax before making an impression with a seal ring? I find that when I use a torch, even with a soft flame, I burn the seal wax. I am looking for a bloodstone engraver to engrave a bloodstone on the top of a ring. Would anyone know who would offer this service? I am located in Vancouver BC Canada. Sam: I was a little weary when I posted so I wasn't very clear. The scratch is just outside of the french greyed area in the blued area. After thinking about it, I've decided just to leave it alone. It's really not that noticable. 'Course under the microscope it looks like the clover leaf of a 4-lane highway. Missed not going to Reno. Heard good things about the show. I think there were at least three folks from the Fairbanks area there. Mike, I tried that knifenetworks.com/forums and couldn't get it to come up. Do you have a good link to it? Luis, if you burnish the area it will be noticably shinier that the rest and stick out like a sore thumb. Is the scratch you speak of that noticable? If you need to repair it you may have to refinish the whole area to get a consistantly smooth grey. Sam In the process of french greying a area on the blued receiver of my shotgun I found a small scratch that I had inadvertantly made while engraving when my graver must have slipped. It's not huge but still, it's there. What's the best way to deal with this? My thought is to apply a little oil and then burnish the area. Is this a good strategy? The results of the raffles that were held at the FEGA & ACGG show in Reno on January 30,2005 are as follows: The four winners of a signed Prudhomme Print are Bill Rankin, Thomas Bakewell, Eric Gold, & Danny Krichevsky. The winner of the LaTourneau Engraving Vise was Rocky Hays. The winner of the Engraving class was Scott Hutchinson. Thank you to all who participated. Lost at Annual Exhibition in Reno: A gold ring with a blue stone. Probably lost on Sunday in the exhibit hall or somewhere around there. Please email fega@fega.com if you have any info. swing arm with a 100 watt bulb. It was hot and always in the way. I had asked a simular question on the engravers site at msn.com. There suggestion was a Fiber optic light. I bought one off ebay with a double goose neck lite guide. The light is great, can bend the guides to be out of the way, and it is a cold light. This is the same type light source as used with ring lights on steroscopes. Thought I might jump in on this one. I use a 4' 2-bulb fluorescent fixture over my bench and a high intensity light close to the work hoping that the combination might eleminate shadows and I still don't have enough light. For what it's worth I bought the scroll kit when I was tooling up and it's handy for practice, but you're still gonna have to put in plenty of practice and learn how to draw scrolls. I've still got a long way to go. You can get still more good advice at knifenetworks.com/forums and go to the fine embellishment section--some really good engravers post there and I have gotten some really useful info. Alex, I am not really familiar with the scroll kit. I suggest you need to practice drawing scroll spirals some 15 minutes every day. This will advance your abilities as much as anything. To engrave you need good lighting because if you can't see it, you can't do it. I use a three bulb four foot flourescent light fixture mounted about two and a half feet above and ever so slighly behind my vise. This has worked well for me for many years. Some people don't like using flourescent lights so you will have to use what works for you. But you really need good lighting. of the necessary equipment. My problem is that I need a decent light, I've looked around and most of the swing lamps I've found in my area are rather flimsy and I don't think they would hold up. What is everyone using, I like the idea of the magnifying lamps, even though I have the headbands to do that. Also is the Ngraver's company scroll layout kit worth buying? I did some 22kt gold inlays on a sig. I put some perma blue on the engraving temporarily, and it discolored (oxidized) the gold. When I send it out to the gunsmith to be blackened will his salts have the same effect. If so what should I mask the gold off with. I'm thinking his prep may remove my masking. James, it has been 27 years since I first applied for an FFL and just can't tell you how long it will take now but it is not a real quick process. Mike, you can use a stopoff varnish of some sort to either selectively plate or selectively blue...the real problem is to have a clean seperation between. I have not tried the selective plating/bluing. A bit more of an effort than I care to punish myself with. The post about blueing reminds me to ask this question. I was reading G Forte's instructions on the use of electroless nickel on his engraving and I assume that he is talking about plating the entire part. If, for example, you wanted to only plate the embellished area, is it possible (practical) to mask off the embellished area and blue, then plate, or to mask off the rest and nickel plate, then blue the rest. Sam, thanks for the good answer. I noticed in Meeks book on engraving he never once even touched on the subject of bluing. About the license, How long does the application process take? Thanks, James, while one can cut through the bluing on a gun, it is not recommended for several reasons. Mainly because it leaves bare metal subject to rust and when you cut you will leave burs along the edge of the cuts that can't be delt with without affecting the finish. I only tried that once many years ago and the cuts were filled with a "gold" lacquer. It was not a very satisfactory job. You can remove the old blue with Naval Jelly or other rust removers and when finished with engraving have the parts reblued. This is the accepted method. Please note that if you move into firearms engraving you will be required to have an FFL to work on someone else's firearm if you keep it in your shop beyond one business day (from one day to the next). This requirement applies to the serial numbered frames only. It does not apply to barrels, floorplates, buttplates, grip caps, etc. I am interested in getting into gun engraving but find my main question to be what is commonly expected to take place with the blued surface. Should I contact a gunsmith to set up rebluing the project when its done? Does every job result in the entire surface needing to be refinished or might a person carefully add something like just a name without planning on rebluing the whole thing? I have good experience engraving on hard metals I just need to find out about what is the typical finishing routine on a blued surface. My hunch is that ever job will require a complete refinish. This is an old question I need to find out before I can expand into gun engraving. Any help would be appreciated. James Roettger I would like to get a CZ52 totaly engraved and gold plated like the Dmaseened LLamas of the late fifties and early sixties. anyone interested in doing the same I now have 4 CZ 52s. I couldn't get any help on the nitre bluing salt thing from the post I made a while back. So, I hauled off and bought everything I need to nitre blue screws and small parts. If there are any engravers interested in sending their screws to me to blue, I'd be glad to do it. I have to use up this 20 pound bucket of salt somehow right? I'll blue some examples and post them on a website or send via email to anyone interested. I want to provide a service and put this stuff to good use instead of having it sit doing nothing... Just thought I would respond, nice new look to the site. Not that I could do better, only thing is banner heading could be more clear?? higher resolution??? any way great job! Thanks and cudos to whoever put it together. j.c. j.c P.S. I've just found your site, am going to attend the show in Reno, NV this weekend, and can't WAIT!!! :-) Thanks so much for sharing all the info and the absolutely inspiring photos of all the guns and knives from so many in the industry. Trying to contact Western Bright Cut Engraver, John Freestone. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. I'm looking for some good used engraving equipment. Any of the GRS engraving machines would be fine. If it needs a little work I'd consider it if the price is right. I'd love some of Lindsay's tools, but I know nobody will let loose with them at a price I can afford. hello all. Anyone using the holding fixtures by Bill Falk for the SAA? I think I will be needing them, but wanted to hear any feedback anyone might have.Thanks! Tom Hope you all like the new look of the web site! Please report any problems or errors to fegainfo@fega.com Thanks! Hi, I am interested in carving cameos, well, not exactly. I'm going to be working on a model ship, and instead of gilding boxwood for the ship's frieze and stern and bow ornamentation, I'd like to carve gold mother of pearl in the style of cameos. I could find precious little on the art, but did glean that gravers are used. I already have three different gravers for engraving shell inlay, but that involves just etching the surface to allow a pasted to fill it in for black accent lines. Carving a 3D relief cameo to very high levels of detail is going to be more of a challenge, and most probably demand a larger collection of gravers. But I don't know what. What would you suggest? Based on what cameos you have seen, what tools might be needed for the job? And if it is a large collection, as even HSS hand gravers are still not cheap, is it hard to simply make your own? Get stock of the right type of steel, a zirconium belt, a buffing wheel, and grind and polish it to shape? Oh, finally, sharpening-- what variety and grit of stone do you recommend? Arkansas oil, japanese water, diamond stones? Do I need from 700 to 8000, or just 5000 and 8000 to keep the graver consistently honed? Or, what are your thoughts on rotary power carving? I'm inclined towards hand engraving, I don't know, it just seems like a tool that cuts in one direction and only with a little force behind it would give more control than a spinning point that could cut a disasterous zig-zag if you relax your hand for a second. But I've heard a lot about the turbocarver and another similar type tool, and now would be the time to consider whether I want to take the hand-carving and hand-engraving route or go to rotary carving, because a turbocarver is an investment in itself, and good sharpening stones for hand engraving and hand carving can be nearly the same investment. thanks! -Bernard
I know some of you engravers out there use nitre bluing salts to blue screws and such. I am looking to buy a small quantity from someone willing to sell/trade some. I don't need the 20 pound bucket that Brownells sells and end up wasting 19 pounds of it. I plan to engrave some pocket watch movements and do the screws in this manner. A quart mason jar of salts will last me 2 lifetimes. Anybody want to help me out? Drop a line or call, Thanks I have a springfield 1911 parkerized to engrave. I was wondering if I should do a deep relief sand blast and re parkerize, or just blue over the engraving when done. I am looking for good used GRS equipment. Would like to purchase a Gravermax or Gravermeister, Magnablock ect. I am new to engraving and need some equipment. I am a custom bit and spur maker and have just been doing silver mountings and overlays to this point. Now I want to get into the engraving side of it. Can use any and all advice and help. Thanks, Harris Hellow all I am new to this forum and new to hand engraving. This is my new hobby. My other hobby is playing the trumpet, which is waht happened to spark my interest in engraving. I was inspired by many old engraved Conn Trumpets. As you might see I live in Perkasie Pennsylvania, which is between Philadelphia and Allentown. If anyone is interested in sharing their knowledge, I would love to get together. Please email me at forthaney@comcast.net if your nearby. For starters I was going to evgrave old pennies on which I would trace the features. Can someone direct me to a place where I can get patterns and the materials to transfer them to practice plates? What is that transfer material called. Thanks Paul Hi folks. I recently read in "ENGRAVER" an excellent article by Brian Rebuck titled "Prepare That Canvas". Well done! I do my best to prepare my metal (guns, knife, or practice plates) but I have run into situations on modern firearms. Because of liability issues gun manufactures put a paragraph on the gun parts. I stone and polish (sometimes end up recutting some lettering. Is it recommended to have the surface dressed by a machineshop with a surface grinder in a very fine grit. I have read about stoneing barrels to remove blemishes but am not sure about the lettering that is often excessive on ne firearms. Also, what stones should I be using to dress surfaces. Thanks for your help. Fred I am interested in selling my entire GRS Hand engraving setup which includes: Microscope, 2 engravers blocks, Sharpening system, 4-5 quickchange handpeices, Graver Max, Quiet compressor, numerous gravers, all the jewelers bench accessories (never even used once), rolltop desk, etc. Please have anyone who is interested call me @ 910-392-9323. Everything is in great shape, as I haven't used it for more than 40 hours total. I can't commit the time it takes to get good at this. Too many responsibilties, and travel away from home. I have over $9,000 invested, and will sell all for $5,000. It must be picked up. new pages-http://web.telecom.cz/rytiny copperplate,steelplate,hand printings,made in home please send me your impression and opinion ad my kreatione ....thanks for you interest Martin &Iris Strechovsky,Czech Republic,Central Europe old pages-http://nav.to/strechovsky-guns and hobby The best Meiji dealer I've run into is Steve Whittome at LABTEK. 91 Lost Lake Lane, Campbell, CA 95008 408-871-7700 Website: www.labtek.net Email: labtekdiv@labtek.net I called him and ordered some parts I couldn't seem to find. We have 4 Meijis including an older trinoc. He had 'em, the prices were a lot better than anyone else who said they had 'em - and then didn't. On top of all that the package was here the next day. Tell him I sent you. James, I responded to your e:Mail.... I may also have an extra set of eye pieces that I could send you. I'll check on that also. -Chris Does anyone know a good online store for meiji products.The ones I've found are not comprehensive for things like accessories like rubber eye pieces etc. Thanks James Roettger I can't stand all day anymore. I have a stool that is so high it is almost the same as standing and I use a microscope. I do a lot of muzzle loading barrels that are as long as four feet long .I have the large ball that weighs about 45 lbs. when I am doing a barrel I have rails that I clamp on my engraving bench that go almost all the way around me. The barrels rest on the rail and I can swivel them about 150 deg. this works better than anything I can figure out except standing. But on long barrels you still need some kind of rest. I'm trying to figure out how to engrave laying down. Any ideas. Berry Hands ought to know. BR Engraving, My question is are you trying to engrave this barrel sitting down? When I engrave barrels or any other gun part, I stand. My vice which is 45 pounds sits on a pedestal made from four 2x6's, sealed with quarter inch plywood top and bottom, filled with concrete. It is much easier to move around the vice. On gun receivers and other gun parts, I can cut a scroll in one pass without stopping. The only time I sit down is when I do my layout on the gun part. Try standing up: you'll save your back. I have talked to many engravers over the years and I hear them talking about their bad backs. The reason for their bad backs is that they spend their time hunched over a vice. You can work standing up whether you use hammer and chisel, hand tool, Gravermiester, Gravermax, Gravermate, or Ngrave. Good luck, Billy Jo. Yours truly, J.J. Roberts I have been engraving for only 8 months and have been practincing diligently..I have a problem that I don't know how to approach. The problem is when I try to engrave on the end of a gun (in this case a shotgun) my vice seems to be inefficient. The reason for this is because when i swing the vice with the gun barrel in it i always seem to be bending over and stretching to reach the area to be engraved. I was wondering if there is anyone out there amongst you talented people that know of a way to solve this. In other words, is there something special a fella can build so to keep the work in front of him instead of haveing to reach for the dagone area, In Minnesota with a very sore back thanx all and happy new year. "WANTED" LOOKING FOR AN ELECTRIC CHECKERING OUTFIT--MUST BE REASONABLE--THANKS--JIM Bernard. I have used the Gold Lode from Brownells in engraving and it looks good and stayed in my shotgun for several years with no touchup. While I am here, I have an Olympus Scope with a flourescent Lightring for sale. It has 10XWF lens for $350+ shp Contact me at Longline@lightbound.com if you are interested. This is a great engraving scope Bernard. I don't think gold could be burnished into shell but soft lead wire of close diameter might work. Polish to a high luster with fine abrasive paper and selective pen plate first with copper then then gold. Gold adheres betteto a copper flash. Be sure to leave a small piece hanging out for a ground lead. Spot electro plating is done with a pen plater(Rio grande) or Texas plater. Metal should be fresh sanded and degreased with alcohol At any rate try to get the lead to stick before thinking about plating equipment. A probable and practical alternative might be to just brush in 24 kt gold lacquer (Gold Lode from Brownells). I havent tried any of this just some ideas off the top of my head. Hope something works! Jim Bernard, I haven't heard of anyone in the FEGA family inlaying into shell with gold. I would think the shell is too fragile to take the pressure needed to press the gold into a dovetail in the shell, assuming one could cut or scrape a dovetail into the material. It would be an interesting experiment. Sam I have a GRS ring light and a .5 objective for a Mieji scope for sale - Please let me know if anyone is interested. Both pieces are basicly new...... Chris shell inlay. I need to engrave fine details, but I can't have the details disappear (shell is different from metal and doesn't show the engraved lines as well), so I want to fill them with something, but neither do I like the flat look of black wax or india ink, which is the accepted means in modern shell inlay on guitars. But I was looking through Meek's book, and noticed the chapter on inlaying wire. That would be rather cool! But, again, shell is not steel. As he demonstrates, gold wire and gold sheet taps well into steel. But shell is soft, I think I read in a book on shell inlay that it is a 3 on the Moe scale of hardness. Will the shell hold in the gold the way steel does? If I prefer to save money, will it hold in brass? Dix gold? Silver? Even copper (I'm doing an inlay of a violinist, and the bow is too long and thin to cut of shell and would be easiest to engrave & inlay over everything else)? Or is copper too hard versus the shell, and I'll just end up chipping the engraved cavity in the shell (the shell is .06" thick, which should help, it's not veneer thin)? Any suggestions/reccommendations? thanks! -Bernard Jeff, You should go to Reno, NV the end of January to the Firearms Guild and Gunmaker's Guild show at the Silver Legacy. You will have the opportunity to see and talk to a large number of engravers and see their work. I am sure you would find it worthwhile. Hello, I am hoping someone can offer me some guidance regarding locating an engraver. You see, this winter I am commissioning the creation of two custom made rifles (one for me and one for my father). Next year, it is my intention to begin the process of having the rifles engraved. The ultimate design has yet to be determined and, in fact, that is one area where I need help. However, I can say that I am seeking to have the engraver incorporate my family's crest into the design so that ultimately the rifles will not only be working guns but will become family heirlooms to be passed down through the generations. Hi Laurie, You can indeed get by with just the tools you mention. I did so for much of my first 20 years or so.... but doing it this way cost me 3 carpal tunnel surgeries, two elbow releases, and shoulder surgery. I seriously doubt I would have found these surgeries necessary had we had the level of pneumatic tools available now, available to me 35 years ago. There are many more reasons for the almost unanimous switch over to power assisted pneumatic engraving tools. One is the "McDonalds mentality" that prevails in the world as we know it now. Gotta have it/learn it RIGHT NOW! The learning curve (think: time spent to become reasonably accomplished ) with the power assisted tools can sometimes be cut by as much as much as 70%... Someday it may be possible to learn even faster, by osmosis, or hooking brains together in some way to transfer skills - but in the meantime this is the fastest method. Another is that most of the students I see these days are well over 40 years old. They don't have a lot of patience. They don't have a lot of time. If they intend to get a body of artwork together during the time that they have left, they've got to utilize anything that helps. Power assisted pneumatic tools do... Still another - there are about 90% less accidents due to slippage. This means less stress on extremely expensive or important jobs. It also means you are much less likely to need a blood transfusion. I can give you at least half a dozen more reasons (speed, accuracy, etc.), but these should give you an idea. Hi everyone, I have for sale 2 tapes I purchased from FEGA. They were viewed once, which was today. I should have realized that these were geared toward firearm engraving, (dah) which I do not want to do, I would like to focus strickly on jewelry since I am a goldsmith and the demand is incredible. First tape is # 16, "Engraving Basics" by Rex Pedersen Second tape is # 27, "Lettering" with Gil Rudolph and "Devices for use at the Bench" with Bob Evans They were $30.00 each or there abouts so I guess I would want close to that as possible since they are basically brand new. (My mistake I should have known better) Next question...is anyone using Engraver's "MagnaGraver"? I tried it out, great concept but it seems a bit large for my hand to control. Also I have read through the past 3 years of archives and the feeling I got was as a beginner like myself was to invest in a power engraving system because it would make the learning process go that much quicker. Am I correct in assuming this and why?? I have gone to the homes of 2 semi retired engravers for the jewelry trade, both in their 60's and all they have is a gravers ball, sharpening stone, (no hone) and basic hand push gravers set into mushroom handles. This is how I was going about my practicing but if everything I have read in the archives is true then I need to invest a lot of money into power equiptment. Please Advise. Thanks much, Laurie p.s. if anyone is interested in these tapes please contact me through my e-mail...thanks again. Does anyone know the current contact info for an engraver friend of mine, Lee Dufresne? If you do and don't feel comfortable sending it directly to me please let him know Stan England is trying to reach him. Chris, Thanks for the information. Jay Got a couple of questions that have been floating around in my head for the last few months. Finally had time to get them on the forum. Question one: Had a feller look at my work over closely the other day. He liked it. That got me to thinking---I know, that can be dangerous---when you look at someone's work with a hand-held magnifier, what are you looking for? Question two: In your mind, with regard to scrolls, what is the difference between engraving and "bank note" engraving? Luis Chris, contact GRS abouut the courses, I suspect it will be a week or so before they work out the details for the application process. Jay, there are two choices initially, power assisted or all hand power. For hand you need a few gravers, some mushroom shaped handles, a chasing hammer and lots of time to practice. I learned this way, made my living for over a decade with these methods and taught basic engraving classes this way. __________________________________- the other option is power assisted engraving and names like GRS, Ngraver, and the Lindsey AirGraver are your basic choices. Add to that,GRS has 3 entirely different systems to offer, the GRavermeister, GRavermax and the System III. Each of these offereing from the various makers have their various pros and cons, based on user preferences and the type work being performed. Additionaly, every system is capable of superb work in the hands of a skilled user. I have now used the GRavermax system for over a decade, and have now taught probably 20 or more classes over the last eight years for GRS using this system. I cannot recomend these classe highly enough. You will leave after five days on Friday afternoon doing work far beyond what I was capable of after a year of solid practice with hammer and chisel. Scott, Thanks for the info. Could you forward the info on how to apply for consideration for those courses,as well as the NRA course you described. I appreciate you taking the time to help out. Thanks, Chris I am facinated with the engraving I have seen on firearms. I would like to pursue this art. Please recommend what equipment I will need to get started, as well as any other advice you would like to add. I truly could use all the help I can get. Thank you in advance. Jay Chris, I assume you are asking about the Masters classes. Not knowing what you've done in terms of progression in two years, I really could not say. I know some folks that have taken the GRS classes and doing some awesome work in less than 6 months. Those classes will have applicants submit a packet of photos relative to their expereince and all participants will be chosen by the teacher, either Churchill or Smith, on a totally annoymous basis. Scott, Are these classes appropriate for someone like myself with just a basic GRS course completed & 2 or so years experience? -Chris I will be teaching a basic engraving class for the NRA Schools in Trinidad Colorado March 21-25. _________________________ Also, GRS will be hosting two Grand Master's weeks. Ron Smith will be teaching one class, and Winston Churchill will be teaching another. What a grand oppurtunity for instruction and interaction. contact GRS for info about applying. Hand Tool - Magna-Graver II with Vari-Pact Like New – for $225.00 firm. Originally paid $325.00…in original box with the 4 collets, and instruction sheet…used a few times..then I purchased a new completely different system, this handtool is no longer needed...postage/ins. extra. We are looking for photos of Terry Wallace to put in a photo album to be displayed on his table at the Reno Show this year. The album will later be given to his wife, Betty. If you have duplicate photos (since the photos will not be returned), they can be mailed to the guild office at: 3011 E Pine Dr Flagstaff AZ 86004 If you have originals that you want to share, you can either mail them to the Guild office with a note to please return,(we will duplicate them and return) or scan them and email to fegainfo@fega.com. Also include any info about the photo if possible. Your help is greatly appreciated!!!! The "Palm Control" by Lindsay IS pretty incredible... I have been working with the first one for a couple months now. It can be snapped right on to either the Chasing or Classic tools that are already out there. It's my favorite tool on the bench these days. Took a little getting used to - but then I've always found myself feeling around for the foot pedal, even when I'm using a chasing hammer! Too many years of using foot pedals for all kinds of equipment, I guess. Steve has also just released a new "Bronze" version of the Omega. This one is an entry level tool and starts around $500. We used one here for the last class and no one wanted to share it without threats of bodily injury from the next student in line. I beleive the first one sold was purchased by Ross Mitsuyuki over in Hawaii after that class. Maybe he'll post sumthin' about it? I know he reads the forum. This new tool does not have the variable strokes per minute (adjusted with a collar on the handle) that are on the other models, but it is quite a bit more powerful. Perfect for the titanium that Ross is engraving... For those that are interested the new Lindsay Palm Control handle can be viewed at http://www.handgravers.com/news.htm Great idea, can't wait till they come on the market. For sale: I have a GRS GraverMax complete set-up for sale. I bought it, but do not have time to use it, or practice. It was used very little it is still all but new. The hand pieces are still in the original boxes with the original paper work. One was never used. I will try to list all I have Starting with the GraverMax unit itself with the air regulator and foot control kit. I have 3 hand pieces witch are all quick-change tool heads. The first is a model 710, this is a larger hand piece for hammering and deep engraving. The second is a model 901, seems to be the standard hand piece for all jobs. The third is a model 921 “monarch” This is the best hand piece that GRS has for ultra-fine engraving. There is also a GRS ultra 850 high-speed rotary hand piece witch spins between 300,000 and 400,000 rpm! The Ball Vise is a Magnablock that is heavy duty and again, has been used very little. It weighs in at 30lbs. And has a jaw opening of 3”. I also have the 30-piece vise attachment set for holding objects of every size and shape. This complete set will come with a bunch of quick disconnect tool holders and tooling. There is also a set of beading tools and a stipple tool. If I find anything I forgot to list I will be sure to put it in with the rest. This stuff all adds up to just under $3000.00 but I am willing to part with it for much less. Please e-mail me with your thoughts and if we can come to terms, I will be glad to ship this stuff right out to you. Again this is all you need to get started in this great art and it is all like new. I just wish I had more time to use it. handpiece, QC holders and (large) Victor engraving block. Great set-up for a beginning engraver or to upgrade your current set-up. Complete for : $850.00 Rick Simmons - handengraver@netzero.com Copyright © 1997 - 2004 Firearms Engravers Guild of America. All Rights Reserved. Privacy Policy - Terms of Use - Copyright Notice |