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Topic: MAKING SMALL GRAVERS & TOOLS Number of Responses: 0
How to make small cobalt graver blanks and punches.
By John Barraclough.
Some of you might like to try this.
Cut a short length of 3/32" X 3/32" square brass tube.
One inch is good for the older type spring loaded fixture.
You can make it shorter for the multi-angle or Hamler style fixture.
Cut it to a length to suit the type of gripping surfaces of your sharpening fixture.
This gives you four sided, indexable surfaces that makes shaping and sharpening very easy.
The tube I use is made by K&S Engineering, Chicago, Illinois. Stock #1503.
This tubing is also available from Micro-Mark Co, www.micromark.com #82634.
You will find it is available at many hobby shops for car, plane and train modelers.
The inside if the square tube is a perfect fit for 1/16" round stock.
Buy 6 inch long X 1/16 inch cobalt aircraft drills from Enco for $3.01 each.
These have only 7/8" flutes and are hardened from end to end, unlike carbon steel drills.
Cut the shank portion Into 1-1/4 inch sections using a diamond wheel in a rotary handpiece.
This will provide four pieces of blank stock.
Then soldier it into the short piece of the square tube, using StayBrite soldier.
Now you have a nice small, indexable graver blank without too much surplus metal to grind
to produce a very useful small graver.
These can also be made into small scrapers, scribes or burnishing tools.
For punches I soldier in used 1/16" carbide dental burrs with StayBrite soldier.
You can then index them in your sharpening fixture for any shape you want.
And the price is right. Hope you give it a try and like the results.
Current pricing of materials allows you to make a nice small cobalt graver for about $1.00.
NOTES.
The gravers described above are for general and light engraving and shading.
They are very economical, giving four graver blades from each 6 inch drill.
If the gravers are to be used for sculpture, background removal, heavy work with flicking out etc it is advisable to cut the shank of the drill into just three sections and to soldier them into the square brass tube to completely fill it.
This type can be made for about $1.25 each currently and will prevent any bending of the brass by heavy upward pressure.
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Posted by: John Barraclough - 2/15/2007 10:30:29 AM.
Most recent response - 2/15/2007 10:30:29 AM. |
Topic: magna graver troubles Number of Responses: 8
| Hello everybody:) Jim in Texas, tinkerer and general junkman. Total engraving novice in need of a little advice. I just picked a magna graver II at a fleamarket cheap but the grease is pretty dry and the tool isn't working correctly. I looked on the web for a parts breakdown or even a phone number for the manufacturer but no luck. I have taken it apart somewhat but there are parts that are either pressed in or threaded. A trail of broken tools has taught me to find out first. I could soak the tool in solvent to clean it. I haven't a clue what kind of lubrication it requires to put back together. I also hate having a tool that I can't take apart and clean. Any help appreciated. I am looking forward to writing my name real fancy on all my stuff:) -Jim. |
Posted by: james anderson - 12/5/2006 9:21:26 PM.
Most recent response - 2/12/2007 5:06:30 PM. |
Topic: How To Book Number of Responses: 2
I have read recently in two fo the engraving forums about a FEGA How To book but dont see it offered on this site. is this book still in print and how may I obtain one.
Thanks
David |
Posted by: K. David Gruber - 12/3/2006 6:16:32 PM.
Most recent response - 2/12/2007 2:28:00 PM. |
Topic: LC Smith Shotgun Number of Responses: 3
There was a post on another forum regarding an L C Smith shotgun. Now I have another question on these shotguns for the firearms experts.
I was in a local gun shop the other day and they had 2 LC Smith shotguns with Damscus barrels. Of course they are used and the aside from the finish on the metals portions needing rework (and of course engraving), the wood needs to be refinished (but is usable). What's a reasonable price for an LC Smith Shotgun in operable but not pretty condition? Are these good for engraving or should one stay clear of them? I thought I saw one on someone's table in Reno?
Thanks.
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Posted by: Kevin Monahan - 2/12/2007 12:56:00 AM.
Most recent response - 2/12/2007 11:43:36 AM. |
Topic: Polymer Reproductions Number of Responses: 3
I have a chance to buy a number of the Polymer sample engraving reporductions from several different engravers. Does anyone have any idea of the value of the samples? Are they commonly available? I want to be fair to the seller, the price has kind of been let up to me. Before I saw these I did not know they existed. The detail in the copies is very good, I think they will be a great study aid.
Thanks in advance,
Rick |
Posted by: Rick Brightwell - 2/11/2007 1:40:43 PM.
Most recent response - 2/11/2007 8:46:56 PM. |
Topic: Open Note To Joe Rundell Number of Responses: 5
So, Joe, after watching your seminar I just had to try the wood carving of scroll. Only did a small part of a scroll but must say your technique works really well. Now..if only I can add a few hours to the day.
Three things came to mind as I tried the technique. First, as I use my left thumb to help quide the tool, dulling the back half of the #11 exacto blade prevents cutting said thumb. Next, the tools need to be really sharp to get smooth cutting. Selection of wood helps here I am sure. And thirdly, I find anytime I work anywhere near a gun stock I have to trim my fingernails or there will be unwanted dents in the wood.
I hope many of you folks try this carving...it is fun and fairly easy, if you are patient. S |
Posted by: Sam Welch - 2/5/2007 1:18:35 PM.
Most recent response - 2/10/2007 10:34:15 AM. |
Topic: inlay question Number of Responses: 7
I have been practicing inlaying and was wondering if when you are working on a line like a border do you undercut the whole line? Also how do you shape your tool for undercutting a fine line I'm having trouble with that (I have trouble with the back side of the tool hitting the opposite side of what I'm working on
Bob |
Posted by: Bob Bullard - 2/7/2007 8:04:10 PM.
Most recent response - 2/9/2007 7:17:00 AM. |
Topic: A newbie question on gun parts Number of Responses: 3
Hello to everyone, I have been a Goldsmith and Platinumsmith for 25 years, I have cut several flat steel plates with the gravermax, and the lindsay handpiece, I just learned about the
ATF and have submitted for paperwork, I think I am ok as far as legals and quality of engraving, but I am going to need to cut some actual parts to leave around to take orders on around town, I will pay the gunsmith to take apart the guns, I'll just cut them, any suggestions on where to get blank parts of guns.. Thanks, John |
Posted by: John Cothern - 2/3/2007 10:12:05 PM.
Most recent response - 2/8/2007 9:00:49 AM. |
Topic: LARGE PHOTOS OF RENO GUNS Number of Responses: 0
| Steve Lindsay has posted the photos I sent in a directory and they are LARGE so check them out!!! S |
Posted by: Sam Welch - 2/8/2007 8:26:45 AM.
Most recent response - 2/8/2007 8:26:45 AM. |
Topic: FEGA promotional items Number of Responses: 3
| will any item be available for purchase any time soon, such as hats, polo and/or tee shirts, etc? |
Posted by: William Moody - 2/5/2007 4:03:10 PM.
Most recent response - 2/6/2007 1:31:44 PM. |
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